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Replacing the timing and balancer belts

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    Replacing the timing and balancer belts

    Any pointers for replacing the timing and balancer belts myself? The only question I have is for the back or left balancer pulley and making sure that particular balancer shaft is properly aligned. the other has a mark. The Honda manual is missing page 41.

    I know I'm rather rusty as a mechanic but still think I can do it in about half a day.

    Yeah, I'm planning on doing everything that should be done. It runs aweful rough at idle. I'm thinking since the motor mount didn't do it the timing belt needs work.

    I'm going to do the four belts, water pump, tensioner pulleys and springs. then I will gap the lifters, flush the radiator, and use new seals. I can't think of anything else.

    I have the Chilton manual and it goes through the process for the back tensioner pulley. I would have thought there would be a mark to make sure it was at the right point in its turn. I will mark the old belt and pulley as well as the housing if there isn't a mark.

    Thanks ahead of time for the help. And yes, I will have help.

    #2
    yeah definately make sure you replace all those seals, especially the cam seal. I would also buy a countershaft seal retainer from the dealer too, this seal has been know to walk out(don't worry, its pretty cheap). The alignment marks for the front countershaft is located on the top side of the shaft (not the gear), just line the notch on the shaft with the one on the block. To hold the rear countershaft in place, remove the 12mm bolt from the rear of the block in insert a small screwdriver or a punch or something, the engine must be at TDC though. Lets see, what else....oh yeah, here is a tip; loosen the crank pulley and the cam gear bolts and THEN set the motor to TDC. This way, you can pull off the belts, crank pulley, cam gear and you won't move anything out of time. Then after you install the seals and the belts, retighten the cam gear. The only other common mistake I can think of is when reinstalling the t-belt tensioner, on the opposite side of the spring there is a hole in the tensioner that is supposed to slip over a small stud in the block, you'll see what I'm talking about once you get in there, just make sure the right side of the tensioner is on the stud before you tighten it all down. On the spring side of the tensioner you will see a treaded hole and it looks like there should be a bolt there, but trust me, there shouldn't. The factory puts a bolt in there to hold the tensioner in place while they are assembling the engine but it is removed after the belts goes on, so do not put one there. Thats all I can think of for now. Let me know if you have anymore questions.
    00 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 4X4

    92 Honda Accord LX

    95 Honda Civic CX

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      #3
      Cool, the bolt on the back of the block and then a screw driver will work to keep it lined up?

      Cam seal and counter shaft seal retainer. I'll look into those because i'm not sure what they are but I have an Idea.

      Comment


        #4
        Mrhonda,
        Which parts are they on this diagram?

        http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...FT-TIMING+BELT

        Are you talking about number 30?
        Last edited by brough; 07-24-2004, 06:34 PM.

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          #5
          I don't know what the countershaft seal retainer is.

          Comment


            #6
            Well, I figured it out. Now do I need one or two of them. It isn't on any diagrams I can find.

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              #7
              what you need is a cam seal, crank seal, countershaft seal, and countershaft seal retainer. The only one I saw in that diagram was the cam seal (#30) Just go to a Honda dealer and ask for these, they will know what you need.
              00 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 4X4

              92 Honda Accord LX

              95 Honda Civic CX

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by mrhonda
                To hold the rear countershaft in place, remove the 12mm bolt from the rear of the block in insert a small screwdriver or a punch or something, the engine must be at TDC though.
                The Honda service manual says to insert a 6mm bolt into the hole; I used either a 5 or 6 mm allen wrench and that worked fine.

                DON'T FORGET TO REINSTALL THAT 12 MM SEALING BOLT BEFORE YOU CHECK BELT TENSION OR START THE CAR!

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                  #9
                  Mrhonda,
                  Would you recomend replacing the tensioner pulleys?
                  Thanks for your help.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by brough
                    Mrhonda,
                    Would you recomend replacing the tensioner pulleys?
                    Thanks for your help.
                    Usually there's no reason to do so. However, it couldn't hurt

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Only if they are making noise or don't spin freely, otherwise I wouldn't worry about it.
                      00 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 4X4

                      92 Honda Accord LX

                      95 Honda Civic CX

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Mrhonda, any suggestions for getting the crank pully bolt loose. We tried to find a way today but it is damn tight. I don't have the pully holding tool.

                        Actually, does that bolt loosen the normal counter clockwise direction?

                        Would a dealer have the pully holding tool?

                        Thanks for any suggestions,
                        B

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                          #13
                          mrhonda helped me with my timing belt. he knows his stuff.
                          Former: 90 Accord EX Coupe, 93 10th Anniversary in Frost White

                          1985 Volvo 245 manual [IPD lowering springs, IPD sway bars, OEM Virgo wheels, 1977 quad round headlights, 1978 grill]
                          2001 Mazda B3000 SE 4x4 extended cab [stock except for CB radio]
                          2008 Ford Escape XLT [bone stock]
                          2015 Toyota Prius Three with solar roof [rear diffuser, Vision Cross wheels... cheaper than steelies!]

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                            #14
                            I'm getting better tools tomorrow.

                            The only question remaining is does the Crank pully bolt loosen the normal counter-clockwise direction or is it odd and loosen in the clockwise direction? Nothing says anything one way or another so I've been going the counter clockwise direction.

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                              #15
                              sameas any other bolt i believe.

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