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    i may be in trouble

    So i didnt drive my cb for 2 days, then when i got in it today, it started making a not so good sound. Im praying its not the dreaded rod knock. Its never done it befor. I started it, let it idle for a minuit or 2, then i started to drive slowly. It was a faint knockin from about 1500-3000 rpm, then it stoped, i put it in 2nd, and the same sound from 1500-3000. My valves are in need of adjustment, but it was more than a valve tap. It really did sound like steel knocking on aluminum.
    Once the car got to operating temp. it stopped doing it. i got to work today, parked it and just hoped for the best. When i started it tonight, there was no knocking that i could hear. I dont understand what else it could be? I know what a knock sounds like, and thats what i think.
    Well what i want to know is, if it is a knock, how long till it to late and i cant rebuild it? Should i just tear it apart now befor catastrophic failure? And how much do you think it would be for rod bearings? i can do all the work myself. Thanks guys

    #2
    Mines been knocking for over a year, and I redline it all the time...I wouldn't be TOO worried. Mine also only does it from about 1700-2500 rpm.
    Originally posted by sweet91accord
    if aredy time i need to put something in cb7tuner. you guy need to me a smart ass about and bust on my spelling,gramar and shit like that in so sorry.

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      #3
      get that valve adjustment asap
      Project M3 - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157903
      -(B-Pillar Bar Originator)-

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        #4
        check your oil? you could be low...

        member's ride thread
        93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
        99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
        91 Accord SE 176k
        97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

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          #5
          yeah, i think ill do the valse next monday. I got 3 days where i dont HAVE to drive my car, so i think im gonna do it. I think valves are .10 exhaust and .12 intake? Something like that.

          I do go through a lot of oil, about a quart in 2 weeks. But i stay on top of it.

          Im worried couse i spent the last 2 yrs. making the body rust free and straght, and make i look nice, now its the motor. I just dont want to drop a rod, and lose the block. Anyone know a good place to get rob bearings?

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            #6
            10 on the intake and 12 on the exhaust...exhaust are always larger unless it is a hydraulic cam on a small block chevy where it takes zero lash :o

            ACL rod bearings are really cheap...but i would assume you need a different size to slightly compensate for the knock if, infact, is a rod knock.

            in that case a pair of oem's should do the trick. just need someone to mic the crank and the rod housing of the one making the knock to confirm the bearing clearance.
            I <3 G60.

            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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              #7
              Since it sat for two days I am assuming all the oil drained into the oil pan so when you started it up it was lacking lubrication to the top of the motor. I f I let mine sit for more than two days it does the same thing makes noise till it warms up then It goes away.
              I need a 14b or 16g turbo!

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                #8
                1000-2000rpm mine make a loud ticking noise, the valves need an adjustment have to get around to that soon
                wat?

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                  #9
                  Same problem I think

                  Mine makes a "ticking sound" at low rpm's, it's the most noticable at 1500-3000 rpm's and even a lil bit louder if I'm putting the engine under extra load(climbing a hill or accelerating more rapidly than usual). But if I let my car run for 10 minutes before getting in it and driving then I don't hear it, I only seem to hear it if I start driving after I first start it up and accelerate, I don't hear the tick when I'm sitting at idle either. Could this be a lubrication problem that could be fixed with a simple oil additive or will I need to save my pennies to get a valve adjustment or something? I'm kinda low on money so I hope it aint too serious.

                  H22 Fund Cancelled. Flight training underway.

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                    #10
                    Time for the valve adjustment.
                    1st car: Frost White 1991 Accord EX sedan.. (Dec. 1999 ~ Jan. 2001) *Sold*
                    2nd car: Black Pearl 1993 Accord 10th Anniversary sedan (Feb. 10, 2003 ~ Mar. 8, 2008) *Sold*
                    3rd car: Frost White 1992 Accord EX sedan (Jan. 15, 2008 ~ Aug. 12, 2008) *RIP*
                    4th car: Seattle Silver 1991 Accord EX coupe 5MT (Aug. 13, 2011 ~ Mar. 19, 2014) *Sold*
                    5th car: Black Pearl 1994 Accord LX coupe 5MT (Mar. 1, 2014 ~ )

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by foamypirate
                      Mines been knocking for over a year, and I redline it all the time...I wouldn't be TOO worried. Mine also only does it from about 1700-2500 rpm.
                      Same here, been like that for over 30,000 miles. Even after valve adjustment, though it was my first one so I could have easily gotten the lash wrong.
                      Even when I don't let it warm up, I don't have a problem.

                      Now if it just make a knocking noise for several seconds, I'd agree it was lack of oil/oil pressure. In that case, I'd switch to a different oil filter. I've never had oil pressure issues even after a few days of sitting. Light usually goes out before I release the key from the start position.
                      Opal Metallic Green '92 LX 2dr manual, 181k miles, '94 prelude VTEC wheels for summer (steelies with snow tires for winter), Omni-power struts/springs, and other junk

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                        #12
                        That makes me feel a little better. Im pretty sure its from oil draining from the top end after sitting for a couple days. If its a rod knock, itll get worse in 8 months, or a year or something. I just wanna rebuild it befor i fuck up everything, you know? Thanks for the input

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                          #13
                          hey yall, i did the valve lash About 15 min, ago. I also advanced the timing about 10-12*. cant wait to drive it. It already runs uieter and it is reving alot faster. Ill get back in about 3 hours.

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                            #14
                            Glad to hear that
                            Project EP hatch on the way

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                              #15
                              I dont know. i got to drive it. The valve train is really quiet, but damn, something is still knocking. I like the timing, but now i hear the kock till 4000 instead of 3000, and it didnt go away. i got 93 pump gas just becouse of the change. And why does it seem like i got more low end instead of more top end? I read that counter clockwise was the way to go. Maby im wrong. If it keep this noise up, im gonna put it back to stock and call it good!

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