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    Outer CV Joint replacement

    Have a bit of a problem...

    In my Haynes manual, it states that you cannot replace the outer CV joints on a 4G...but I was able to pick up L/R outer cv joint kits...

    1) Am I able to replace them, or do I have to buy a whole axle assembly?

    2) Seeing that the hub/rotor assembly is pressed onto the CV joint, will I have to get a new hub/rotor assembly to press back on? Or should I do the rotor over hub swap while changing the CVs? Does it matter if I stick with the stock setup or go with the rotor over hub swap?

    3) Will I need a special press to press the hub onto the CV joint?


    At the same time I will be installing an Energy Suspension master bushing kit and new lower balljoints (I know these will have to be pressed out/in).

    #2
    dude u in for a lot of work. get the right tools.
    get the 2 ton puller to get the lower bolt joint out. then go from there.

    as for the axle my suggestion would be to buy a new one or a rebuild one.

    i changed the boots on the axles and that shit still went bad after a mounth.

    good luck man.
    are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

    Comment


      #3
      What's this lower bolt joint?!

      I already have the outer CV joint kits here (new cv, boot, grease, clamps, snap ring)...can I not use them? Or DO I have to buy an entire axle?

      Comment


        #4
        well if u check the bottom part of the rotor assembly u going to see a bolt that holds the whole thing to the lower arm.<<<<that's the lower bolt joint.

        since u have them then go ahead and change them.

        my suggestion is that u buy a new axle which is less work to install. but u got the parts so go ahead.

        lol take pic and do i diy for the rest of the people.
        are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

        Comment


          #5
          Theres a search on it they tell you how to do the whole thing. Personally You need these tools a socket wrench set,a monkey wrench for the otherside for the strut to loosin the strut jount at the bottom, a breakerbar for the lower balljoint,a jack of course a crowbar to compress the springdown so you can move the hub inner to get the axles arm out of the socket of the rotor. Then you gently place the crowbar in betweer the inner shaft of the axle and tuck it out then pull it out and your set. It took me a hour cause i kept bullshittin around.

          Comment


            #6
            I havent rebuilt one, but sure your gonna have to take it all out like you would if you were putting a new one in. I dunno what you spent on the rebuild kit, but why most people just get a new axle is, you just gotta take the old one out and stick the new one in. It only costs 70 dollars (after you bring the old one back) and if it ever breaks again, you just keep your receipt, make sure they have one in stock... take it back and get a new one.

            Rebuilding them looks like a pain in the rear... if i were you i'd return the kit, and just get the whole thing.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by alb_accord
              well if u check the bottom part of the rotor assembly u going to see a bolt that holds the whole thing to the lower arm.<<<<that's the lower bolt joint.

              since u have them then go ahead and change them.

              my suggestion is that u buy a new axle which is less work to install. but u got the parts so go ahead.

              lol take pic and do i diy for the rest of the people.
              Ohhhh, you're talking about the lower balljoint! Now I see what you mean...different terminology makes for confusion... And yes, the lower balljoints will be changed as well.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by h22sparkle
                Theres a search on it they tell you how to do the whole thing. Personally You need these tools a socket wrench set,a monkey wrench for the otherside for the strut to loosin the strut jount at the bottom, a breakerbar for the lower balljoint,a jack of course a crowbar to compress the springdown so you can move the hub inner to get the axles arm out of the socket of the rotor. Then you gently place the crowbar in betweer the inner shaft of the axle and tuck it out then pull it out and your set. It took me a hour cause i kept bullshittin around.
                Wish I could find the DIY, but I've found diddly squat so far and that was with a search of: cv*

                All of my other searches turned up with zero results... :\

                Thanks for a quick rundown, though.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by aero3685
                  I havent rebuilt one, but sure your gonna have to take it all out like you would if you were putting a new one in. I dunno what you spent on the rebuild kit, but why most people just get a new axle is, you just gotta take the old one out and stick the new one in. It only costs 70 dollars (after you bring the old one back) and if it ever breaks again, you just keep your receipt, make sure they have one in stock... take it back and get a new one.

                  Rebuilding them looks like a pain in the rear... if i were you i'd return the kit, and just get the whole thing.
                  I won't be rebuilding the old CVs, but rather replacing them with new outer CVs. Paid $25US a piece.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    get a rebuillt one from the shop they will take yours and give you one of theirs and mine comes with a 2year warrantee oh joy!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I searched and foung this thread. My axle is fucked.





                      I want to replace it with a remanufactured OEM honda axle from majestic honda.
                      Majestic honda Axle

                      My question is, what do they mean by core deposit, $50? And since I'm replacing my passenger side axle, I get the Right axle listed there ? Or the left? And to change them, I need to press out the rotor/hub/bearing assembly righT? It's not just a matter of removing the axle nut and pulling it out from the knuckle, and then from the tranny?

                      edit: what's with all that slime all over my parts?
                      Last edited by i97supratti; 03-12-2006, 12:37 PM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Its better to get a remanufactured one. Rebuilding an axle is a bitch and its dirty work. Thats grease all over your axle leaking out because of the ripped boot. The boot you bought might have been cheaper but your asking to do a hella more work and no warranty like sparkle said if you get a reman axle then you at least get a warranty and if shit fucks up just bring it back and get a new one. A core charge is when you turn in your old axle they take it off the price your paying.

                        The New-ish Ride
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                        MK3 Member #3
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                        Comment


                          #13
                          I'm buying it off majestic honda and having it shipped, so I don't know if i CAN return it to them if it fucks up? Should I just get an el cheapo autozone axle? I do have plans to boost in the future, so that's why I wanted OEM parts

                          Comment


                            #14
                            get autozone one.. never had a problem with them.
                            http://www.get-gifts-for-free.com/?ref_id=4810





                            1992 Honda Accord 4dr 5spd EX- R.I.P 8/10/05

                            Comment


                              #15
                              whats better thatn a ligetime warranty....... go autozone

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