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    Drivers window problem

    I've searched already, lol. Just wanted to get that out there. Has ANYONE ever come up with a solid answer to what the cause of the gap is. Some say regulator, some say window guide rubber.

    Mine jumped the track so bad it actually shattered the window on me the other day. Which parts do I need to keep that fixed and from happening again?

    I'm already planning on a new regulator, should I do the guides rubbers and tracks too?

    TIA

    Rob

    - Rob -
    92 Auto Sedan - "Rustoration"
    85 Toyota 4Runner
    1977 Kawasaki KZ1000/ZX6/10R Hybrid
    2008 HD 1200N
    2009 HD 883N

    #2
    mine pops out every now and then when its all the way down, but mine is a broken guide inside the door, ill hit a bump and it will fall off im planning on welding it once the car is running, i dunno if that helps
    New cb, new start

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      #3
      If its poppin out it could be the guide isnt seated right...or you didnt adjust the regulator and shit right when you install. Usually there is a bolt for adjustment. I did that to my car and it worked a lot better. But aftermarket regulators tend to flex a bit which causes it to wind off track a bit. I found this out in my body class when I ask my teacher. He showed me and the motor structure was flexing a bit. Best motors/regulators are to go with stock honda if you can afford it.

      The New-ish Ride
      My old Ride
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      MK3 Member #3
      I piss off people for fun.
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        #4
        Yeah, it used to do the little corner thing, then it started catching on the window seal there on the door panel, then finally went off track, jammed and then shattered. I haven't installed anything new in there, just adjusted the window in the track a few times, which worked well for a bit.

        I've noticed the track on the regulator will wiggle up and down on the rollers themselves (hope that's not confusing). Is that a normal thing or is that a good indication that the regulator is shot?

        - Rob -
        92 Auto Sedan - "Rustoration"
        85 Toyota 4Runner
        1977 Kawasaki KZ1000/ZX6/10R Hybrid
        2008 HD 1200N
        2009 HD 883N

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          #5
          possible bad window run channel. replace that first.
          The beginning of a new era............................
          165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
          184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

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            #6
            So far I have replaced 2 window regulators. Even though the car is a wagon, it is relatively the same. I had the small gap problem as well as the window off track too. I sprayed all kinds of junk down the window. ONLY solution is to replace the regulator. If you haven't seen one, then I can tell you that the wire guide that makes it work will in time break the tiny guides that keep it going around the pulleys. When you hit the switch, the wires pull all over the place. So remove the panel, Remove the connecting rod for handle and the white clip (CAREFULLY!) inspect th window and how it is in the door. With white out or a marker, trace where the regulator bolts are BEFORE you undo them. Have a buddy hold the window while you remove the regulator and motor. Somewhere there is a post on this...do a search. http://autorepair.about.com/cs/faqs/l/bl066e.htm
            Long story short it is better to get the regulator and motor together. I got a friends sedan rear in my wagon and a E-bay one for drivers front. Both work great. I'm due to replace drivers rear next. Hope this helpped.

            Old wagon - Silver '92 LX Wagon - Steve (Shadow)- STOLEN ON LABOR DAY 2012
            New wagon- White '92 LX Wagon on 1/3/13 (Frostbite)



            2000 EX Coupe - Joe -


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