h22a build up!!

[accordfreak]

hey im just asking 4 some opinions from u guys, I'm building up a h22a cause it came with the 4 pistons broken an a foqued up sleeve!!

anyway im planning on sleeve the block and buy forged pistons i have this options

1) std sleeves(but in chromemoley, harder than OEM ones) and JE 11.5:1 froged pistons

2) 89mm sleeves with 89mm JE pistons 11:1 -13:1

mi car is a daily driven so i dont know about using 12:1 o more in compression and what u guys think about the bore from 87-89mm!!!

anyhow the engine came with a port&polished head, Polished inatke manifold 70mmthrottle 3'CAI to the front,2.25 custom exhaust, and i didnt decide yet what ECU to use !!! so if u can help me out it would be a push in my decision!!

[accordfreak]

h22a build up in session!! help,opinions

h22a build up!!
hey im just asking 4 some opinions from u guys, I'm building up a h22a cause it came with the 4 pistons broken an a foqued up sleeve!!

anyway im planning on sleeve the block and buy forged pistons i have this options

1) std sleeves(but in chromemoley, harder than OEM ones) and JE 11.5:1 froged pistons

2) 89mm sleeves with 89mm JE pistons 11:1 -13:1

mi car is a daily driven so i dont know about using 12:1 o more in compression and what u guys think about the bore from 87-89mm!!!

anyhow the engine came with a port&polished head, Polished inatke manifold 70mmthrottle 3'CAI to the front,2.25 custom exhaust, and i didnt decide yet what ECU to use !!! so if u can help me out it would be a push in my decision!!

[WiKKeDV16]

i didnt even read the rest once i read 4 broken pistons..

heres my opinion straight up..

ditch the block but keep the rods/crank

slap the head on ur f22a use the h22a crank/rods with pistons of whatever compression ratio ud like..
and u have a cheap h22a with iron sleeves instead of FRM

this can be cheaply done.. and if ur rebuilding an h22a i assume u have the skill to do this... if u want more info hollar back.. theres a thread on H-T on how to do this hybrid..

[h22sparkle]

Well im in the same process somewhat of building my engine but its not as severe. Uhhhm as far as sleeving I cant vouch for std sleeves. Ive been hearing some good things about darton sleeves.

As far as Je pistons they are right on the money I wouldnt run 12-1 compression on a daily driven motor if you do you have to do some serious tuning and at one point in time that might not even help because of the tuning and octane etc.

The 11-5-1 should get you there as far as c/r goes but you still have to have it tuned may not to worry that much about as far as pinging depending on the tuner as far as bore you got me there i dont know shit about bore cause i planned to leave mine as is.

Is the head built up in anyway like camshafts,camgears,valvesprings and retainers,timing belt cause thats is going to play a major role in this allmotor equation aswell. Without those combined what you wanna do as far as bottom end work your not gonna see that many gains until completed. Im currently usin my p13 but ive heard that chipped p28's can get the job done with certain programs on em ask busted lx or fizzbob. As for me i wanna try out a p28 and a vafc on my setup. Tuning is the key along with good mechanics to make it last hand and hand as long as the shit is done right not half-assed peace

[BustedLX]

Sleeving an engine is never cheap, using a sleeve like Darton can get quite expensive since the sleeves alone cost around $500-$600 making the job around a $1K job. That's all fine and dandy but not if you don't want to go all out.

If you are just going for a mild daily driven all motor build a standard replacement sleeve will be fine just make sure they are IRON. Nothing FRM coated like the OE sleeves. Try to find yourself a quality replacement sleeve like Clevite. They make affordable iron replacement sleeves for the H22A1.

About your pistons. The stock bore of the H22A is 87mm (if I remember correctly) and the compression ratio is 10.6:1 (10:1 H22A1) so if you go with JE 89mm 11.5:1 pistons in an 89mm cylinder bore how are you increasing compression? I'm not genuis but the more area (volume) you have the less compression you get. So if you are indeed buying 11.5:1 89mm JE's then that's exactly what you are going to get a compression ratio of 11.5:1. Nothing higher unless you deck the block or mill the head which I don't recomend for the average machine shop to do.

Running 11.5:1 CR on a dailly driven pump gas car will be just fine. Get yourself a P28 ECU and someone with a brain to tune it and you'll really enjoy the car.

What rods are you planning on going with? Some econo billets would be a nice addition. Rebuild the bottom end with all new bearings and seals, polish the crank, have the block line bored and sleeved, have the rods and pistons weight matched (if you don't want to go threw the expensive process of balancing the engine), and get that all together and you'll have a nice all motor machine.

EDIT: Please don't start two separate threads in two seperate places for the same thing.

[accordfreak]

Originally posted by BustedLX
Sleeving an engine is never cheap, using a sleeve like Darton can get quite expensive since the sleeves alone cost around $500-$600 making the job around a $1K job. That's all fine and dandy but not if you don't want to go all out.

If you are just going for a mild daily driven all motor build a standard replacement sleeve will be fine just make sure they are IRON. Nothing FRM coated like the OE sleeves. Try to find yourself a quality replacement sleeve like Clevite. They make affordable iron replacement sleeves for the H22A1.

About your pistons. The stock bore of the H22A is 87mm (if I remember correctly) and the compression ratio is 10.6:1 (10:1 H22A1) so if you go with JE 89mm 11.5:1 pistons in an 89mm cylinder bore how are you increasing compression? I'm not genuis but the more area (volume) you have the less compression you get. So if you are indeed buying 11.5:1 89mm JE's then that's exactly what you are going to get a compression ratio of 11.5:1. Nothing higher unless you deck the block or mill the head which I don't recomend for the average machine shop to do.

Running 11.5:1 CR on a dailly driven pump gas car will be just fine. Get yourself a P28 ECU and someone with a brain to tune it and you'll really enjoy the car.

What rods are you planning on going with? Some econo billets would be a nice addition. Rebuild the bottom end with all new bearings and seals, polish the crank, have the block line bored and sleeved, have the rods and pistons weight matched (if you don't want to go threw the expensive process of balancing the engine), and get that all together and you'll have a nice all motor machine.

EDIT: Please don't start two separate threads in two seperate places for the same thing.

Ok u are telling me that if i bore to 89mm i should use 12.5:1 pistons at least because increasing the area will low the compression?
im balancing the engine , here at Puerto Rico a good balancing cost 125$ in a place of experience and quality confrimed

Ok so if a go with the 87mm std i should use as max 11.5-1 compression , and if I use 89mm i should use at least 12.5:1 or dont use it at all?

anyway p28's are excelent in the way that we dont have to deal with knock etc but it isnt the same map as a p13 anyways sometimes is better a p13 with a chip, but since i dont have a ECU yet i think im going with the p28 since is less expensive and easy to find

the hardest thing for me to decide is about the bore, because i decided to use the 11.5:! pistons , but the bore is the thing that i want to see proofs if making it gives me more power !!

thanks u all , any opinion would be received

[BustedLX]

Increasing the cylinder bore increases displacement which in turn does add power. If you run an 89mm 11.5:1 piston then thats the compression ratio you will have. Just as if you where to run an 87mm 11.5:1 piston that is the CR you will have. Increaseing the diameter of the piston does not increase CR. The pistons actual design does that.

[h22sparkle]

Interesting info there