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92 lx - turns over - NO START!

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    92 lx - turns over - NO START!

    I have already read everyones similar problem but mine seems different. My LX has this problem just when everyone is around my car the damn thing dosent want to start! anywhere else it works just fine. It always turns over but here and there (cold or hot weather) it dosent start, and it seems like its getting more often. Need some ideas

    ractive cf muffer w/ 2.5"
    dc sports header
    nology wires w/ amp
    ngk iridium plugs
    h23a1 intake w/ tb
    injen CAI
    AEM fuel rail
    AEM fuel regulator
    cant remember the rest...

    #2
    well first when i don't start check if u getting spark. then move to the other ones.
    are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

    Comment


      #3
      try changing the main relay

      if u have messed with anything else, like the distributor (ignition timing) or anythingg else, it might be the main relay starting to go bad
      NEED RAP BEATS.....

      www.soundclick.com/akcidentaltrakz

      Comment


        #4
        there is a main relay post in the FAQ.

        but listen put ur car in the on posisition, where all the lights come on and listen to the car. listen for a click when the Check engine light turns off. if you dont hear that then ur main relay is out.
        What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

        You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

        Retro!

        Hater

        I love nooBs...They make me look good

        Comment


          #5
          ^ yeah, i forgot to add that
          NEED RAP BEATS.....

          www.soundclick.com/akcidentaltrakz

          Comment


            #6
            I have the same problem with mine sometimes, and when it does start it dies. What I've found is you can give your relay a little knock or hold your foot on the gas while your starting, seems to work fine for me, but if your car isn't even firing then maybe it won't work, something to try though!

            Comment


              #7
              I just had a similar problem with my car.

              Car would start, the engine would catch, but as soon as I turned the ignition switch back from the starting position it would die.

              Turns out it was the ignition switch. The normal running position was fried.

              It's similar to the main relay problem in appearance, but the one thing you will notice that when the key is in the running position, none of your guages will light.

              No warning lights, no relay click, no nothing.

              However, your radio and power windows will still work since they are powered up in the accessory position.
              Bart: What's your name?
              Jim: Well, my name is Jim, but most people call me... Jim.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by TMaxxTim
                I have the same problem with mine sometimes, and when it does start it dies. What I've found is you can give your relay a little knock or hold your foot on the gas while your starting, seems to work fine for me, but if your car isn't even firing then maybe it won't work, something to try though!
                This is kinda the problem - when its having its little fit, if i hold down the gas it only studders for a moment then dies. I do the same with the relays since i've read your reply so i guess thats it and i should get new relays, before it really dies!

                Comment


                  #9
                  You can actually check for this specific problem by hotwiring your car a bit.

                  Remove the cover around the steering column.

                  On the left are the leads going into the back of the ignition switch.

                  Use a piece of wire to short between the solder joints.

                  The solid white wire is the hot lead, so be careful, you can short this against any metal part of your car and toast your electricals.

                  The black wire with yellow stripe is the normal running position.

                  If you shot between the solid white and the black with yellow, your guages will light up and your relays will trip.

                  Easy way to test it.
                  Bart: What's your name?
                  Jim: Well, my name is Jim, but most people call me... Jim.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You think that's bad, graycar, I had the lock cylinder break on me when I was starting the car once. The key wouldn't come off the "III" position. I was lucky I have a standard, because the starter would only engage when I had the clutch in. I managed to get the thing torn apart and was driving around for a week, starting my car with a screwdriver while I worked on the lock.

                    Any, on to the useful info. I know the 3rd gen accords had a problem with the main relay where a loose solder connection would cause a similar symptom, irratic periods where there is no fuel delivery. While I would advise you to have a replacement on hand if you're going to tear the main relay apart, you might as well check it out and see what you can see. There could be a similar loose connection.
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