That intake manifold gasket area needs to be cleaned/scrapped well and flat for a good seal, otherwise you have leaks.
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Engine stumbles below 3500rpm
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Originally posted by HondaFan81That intake manifold gasket area needs to be cleaned/scrapped well and flat for a good seal, otherwise you have leaks.-1992 Accord EX H22 234whp 185wtq
-1993 Accord EX SOLD
-1995 Accord EX Wagon Daily Driver
-2012 GMC Canyon V8 4x4
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bump.....gasket replaced a second time free of charge..also replaced distributor...still having the same problem..any ideas?-1992 Accord EX H22 234whp 185wtq
-1993 Accord EX SOLD
-1995 Accord EX Wagon Daily Driver
-2012 GMC Canyon V8 4x4
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bump...i'd like to get this fixed.-1992 Accord EX H22 234whp 185wtq
-1993 Accord EX SOLD
-1995 Accord EX Wagon Daily Driver
-2012 GMC Canyon V8 4x4
Comment
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Originally posted by RoCknRicEr037you think its related to the IM gasket for sure? because it could be other things as well...-1992 Accord EX H22 234whp 185wtq
-1993 Accord EX SOLD
-1995 Accord EX Wagon Daily Driver
-2012 GMC Canyon V8 4x4
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Mine used to do that before 3500rpm; replaced fuel pump; that fixed it.
Later my tach went wild, then car didn't ignite anymore until I replaced the ignitor. Car works now, but now it hesitates/misses at and above 3500rpm, and tach goes haywire too around 3500rpm (but not the lower rpms).
Another guy with similar probs in another thread fixed it by making sure his dizzy was bolted on securely. My personal guess for both yours and mine is to clean out the EGR Valve and ports and IACV, and maybe even the injectors. I also know one of my sparkplug tube seals is leaking, so that may be robbing you of some ignition too.
So:
1. Check your Dizzy for being bolted on securely
2. Check your ignitor/coil/cap/rotor/plugs/wires
3. Clean out all the valves and ports on the IM (If it weren't your IM, then why is it reacting when you spray carb cleaner around it...doesn't that mean you do have a leak somewhere? Even if you replace the IM gasket, it's possible to warp the mating surfaces if you didn't bolt it down correctly, or if residue was left over between changing the gaskets.)
4. Diagnose to see if your Fuel Pump needs replacement.
Oh yeah, also, make sure you have good grounds from tranny-bat, chassis-bat, block-chasis...... Car can run on bad grounds, but having good grounds can make a HUGE difference in making it run a lot smoother, noticeably.
my 2 centsLast edited by BlackPearl2006; 05-25-2007, 06:17 PM.
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Originally posted by BlackPearl2006Mine used to do that before 3500rpm; replaced fuel pump; that fixed it.
Later my tach went wild, then car didn't ignite anymore until I replaced the ignitor. Car works now, but now it hesitates/misses at and above 3500rpm, and tach goes haywire too around 3500rpm (but not the lower rpms).
Another guy with similar probs in another thread fixed it by making sure his dizzy was bolted on securely. My personal guess for both yours and mine is to clean out the EGR Valve and ports and IACV, and maybe even the injectors. I also know one of my sparkplug tube seals is leaking, so that may be robbing you of some ignition too.
So:
1. Check your Dizzy for being bolted on securely
2. Check your ignitor/coil/cap/rotor/plugs/wires
3. Clean out all the valves and ports on the IM (If it weren't your IM, then why is it reacting when you spray carb cleaner around it...doesn't that mean you do have a leak somewhere? Even if you replace the IM gasket, it's possible to warp the mating surfaces if you didn't bolt it down correctly, or if residue was left over between changing the gaskets.)
4. Diagnose to see if your Fuel Pump needs replacement.
Oh yeah, also, make sure you have good grounds from tranny-bat, chassis-bat, block-chasis...... Car can run on bad grounds, but having good grounds can make a HUGE difference in making it run a lot smoother, noticeably.
my 2 cents
2. I have cleaned both the EGR and the IACV valves.
3. IM no longer leaks or reacts when carb cleaner sprayed around it.
4. distributor/plugs/wires have been repalced in the past 2 weeks, cap and rotor will be soon.
5. Fuel Pump.....idk much about
6. I'll check all the grounds.
thanks for the tips/ideas-1992 Accord EX H22 234whp 185wtq
-1993 Accord EX SOLD
-1995 Accord EX Wagon Daily Driver
-2012 GMC Canyon V8 4x4
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holy crap my car has the exact prob my car has been in the shop for a month they are scratching there heads they dont know what is cuasingit they replaced the injectors took out the cat they have tried everything ,everytime they pull out the spark plugs and they are fried so dude i got the same prob no one seems to know whats causing it
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this just started to happen to me the other day. car was runnin normal all day until i stop at home depot thats when my car started stumbling. first i thought my car needed more oil since i had a little leak. add some oil that didnt work. Maybe it was my tranny ( had a problem like this before with da tranny everytime i stop the car it would shake feelin like it was about to turn off)add tranny stop leaks/slips bottle to it. it worked for a couple of months but later on i got a flush. im also thinkin maybe i need a tuneup but reading this thread i think not. could it be a timing belt issue?for sale= $2500 obo PLEASE SOMEONE BUY MY PROJECT CAR. I dont have time to work on it anymore. Full time job and DJ on weekends... no time for car ..PM me for more info
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