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idle problems on my h23 head swap

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    idle problems on my h23 head swap

    okay guys i come to you once agian for help. i just got done with my h23 head swap. i put the motor back in and everything. i made sure the spark plug wires were in the right place and the timing was right. well i went to start it the first time since i did the head swap and it fired right up but when i started it the rpms shot all the way to 4500 rpms and then went down to 1500 rpms. and then went back up to 4500 rpm and back down agian and thats what it kept doing. my question is could it be the timming is off. because i was a little off when i put the gsr belt on. the block was pretty much tdc and the cams were even and the arrows pointing up. could it be the timing or could it be something else. what could it be. anything helps. thanks.

    #2
    search is your friend

    icv

    and check for vacume leaks

    the build and demise
    buy stuff i want a new car

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      #3
      i did search, and i already fixed the vacum leaks. thats why im asking if it could be the timing thats off.

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        #4
        Did u check your egr or iac?
        Project EP hatch on the way

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          #5
          i had the exact same problem when i did my head swap, and the problem was the FITV (fast idle thermo valve). Does the idle stops jumping, when it reaches normal operating temp?

          i really don't think you have a problem with timing.

          Big 16g Turbo/H23 Head Swap/TSX Projectors

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            #6
            I highly doubt this has anything to do with your timing.
            Project EP hatch on the way

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              #7
              i didnt let it reach normal temp, cause it sounded like that and i didnt want it to run because i was nervous about it. but ill check FITV as soon as i know where its located. hahaha. dont know where everthing is. but i was a little off when i put the timing belt off. it looks like 2 degeres that im off.

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                #8
                Originally posted by whatever210
                i didnt let it reach normal temp, cause it sounded like that and i didnt want it to run because i was nervous about it. but ill check FITV as soon as i know where its located. hahaha. dont know where everthing is. but i was a little off when i put the timing belt off. it looks like 2 degeres that im off.
                .

                If you have the h23 intake manifold; it's below the TB. let it reach normal operating temp to see what happends if the jumping stops, change the FITV.

                Big 16g Turbo/H23 Head Swap/TSX Projectors

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                  #9
                  i have an extra one. it's used and in working order. make an offer on it.

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                    #10
                    well right now im using the f22a6 intake mani.

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                      #11
                      well good its way easier to get to on the a6 mani.should be on the right side of the manifold.
                      People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

                      Mk3 Supra Member #2

                      Originally posted by DarkShadow707
                      The world needs to be reset.

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                        #12
                        okay so i replaced the FITV and now the car revs to 3500 and then drops to 1000. but i tried letting the car heat to normal operating conditions and now the header seems to be heating up fast. they do have header wrap on them. but i dont think thats the reason for them smoking. even when i touch them they seem hot and the car only ran for like 3 min. i realy think it could be the timining still off. but what is the reason for the smoking from the header but atleast the car starts huh. oh well. does anybody have any idea what is going on. and when i put the head on everything was TDC.

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                          #13
                          timing wouldnt cause issues like that.sounds more like a vacum leak.buy a cheap vacum gauge from advance auto parts and hook it up to one of the vacuum lines.you should be somewhere around 20inhg
                          People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

                          Mk3 Supra Member #2

                          Originally posted by DarkShadow707
                          The world needs to be reset.

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                            #14
                            if you're 100% sure that there's NO vacuum leaks, just adjust the idle screw and you'll be set to go

                            THEN: 1993 Accord 10th Ann. Ed.---------------------- NOW: 1996 Accord EX
                            My Ride thread
                            Flickr
                            Originally posted by d112crzy
                            And it can only get better. That's the best part.
                            All I gotta really say is:
                            People of cb7tuner, this AUTO is NOT a joke. It has impressed ME, the hater of auto's.

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                              #15
                              ^ i did that to. but still no luck. and now im having trouble starting it.

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