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    #16
    That didn't make sense in me, and when I checked here, it definetly didn't make sense. Sounds like the lower tube seals to me. They can leak oil and ruin the wires just like you said, and they can't really be affected by the head gasket unless there's massive compression leaking into the crankcase and blowing the seals out, but I doubt it. Maybe do a compression test.
    FWIW
    Opal Metallic Green '92 LX 2dr manual, 181k miles, '94 prelude VTEC wheels for summer (steelies with snow tires for winter), Omni-power struts/springs, and other junk

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      #17
      Originally posted by colslaw87
      found the problem:

      I blew my head gasket, oil got into the spark plug housings, ruined the spark plugs and hot wires.
      I think you meant your tube seals in your valve cover lol not your head gasket. IF it was that you would have a whole different problem.

      The New-ish Ride
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        #18
        Originally posted by NAiL05
        I think you meant your tube seals in your valve cover lol not your head gasket. IF it was that you would have a whole different problem.
        x2
        cant wait till im all done

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          #19
          yeah, thats what i meant, lol........

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            #20
            well that ain't SO bad then...
            Opal Metallic Green '92 LX 2dr manual, 181k miles, '94 prelude VTEC wheels for summer (steelies with snow tires for winter), Omni-power struts/springs, and other junk

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              #21
              i bet 90% says it's an ignitor (ICM, ignition control module) inside the distributor, they're about $90, very common problem, i've been through 2 now. other parts of the distributor could also be bad. i bet it's ignition either way.

              if your car cranks fine, then it's not your alternator, plain and simple, your alternator has no affect on starting the car. you can unplug all connections to your alternator and the car will run fine until the battery dies.
              The CB7 Timeline

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                #22
                i had the exact same prob!! my miles just kept climbing higher and higher as i left the key in the ignition. Took the keys off and it stopped. NOW that doesnt happen and just dieing part is still there. Srry for the noob question, but the dizzy IS the distributor right? If so what am I suppose to check? INSIDE it? or around it? (PM me about the distributor)

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                  #23
                  My money is with the ignitor yo. If it was the alternator, as soon as his car died the battery would have shown signs of weakness or be dead. dim lights, windows cranking slow, engine cranking slow etc. Any check engine light at all?

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                    #24
                    LOL..LMAO...Yo..I had that same problem mayne....a $64 problem!....( Ignition switch ) ...check that mayne!...as well as checking everything else...BUT..if I was you...Id check your Ignition switch ( inside the column...on the other end of the lock assembly.." left side " you have to take off the column covers to get to it....its got 2 copper screws....and you might want to take off the negative battery cable..before you do this..because when you unplug it from the kick panel fuse box and reconnect it...without disconnecting the battery...it will blow the 50A battery fuse...but yeah, check your ignition switch ..because I had the IDENTICAL problem..and it turned out to be an easy fix! only $64 from Advanced auto...or just go and get it from the dealership!

                    I hope you find your problem!
                    92 LX. A6 with GUDE bullfrog Cam. M2S4 transmission..Gutted H23 intake mani. The rest you will just have to find out!


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                    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=174586
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                      #25
                      Originally posted by sandman61377
                      If the battery is good and currently has power then the car would still start even with a bad alternator because the alt doesn't really have anything to do with the car starting. You should try hooking up a battery charger for a half hour or so, or hook it up with some jumpers to another car and let the other car run for at least ten or fifteen minutes, then unhook whichever and try to start your CB. If it starts and then runs down after awhile, its your alt. If it still doesn't start then your problem isn't your alt (at least its not whats keeping it from starting).

                      X2 exactly....well explained Sandman!!
                      92 LX. A6 with GUDE bullfrog Cam. M2S4 transmission..Gutted H23 intake mani. The rest you will just have to find out!


                      MR Thread:
                      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=174586
                      My tribute page: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=70489

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by SN2BH22CB7
                        LOL..LMAO you might want to take off the negative battery cable..before you do this..because when you unplug it from the kick panel fuse box and reconnect it...without disconnecting the battery...it will blow the 50A battery fuse... I hope you find your problem!
                        You mean ignition fuse?The battery fuse is 80A aint it? Or am I backwards?

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