My car idles at about 2,000 RPM when cold. I have the H23 IM on an A6, if it matters. Anyways can I loop a hose on the FITV and run the coolant from the block straight to and from the IACV? Would this make my car idle at 800 all the time, and/or would it cause a CEL?
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Originally posted by lordoja -
Well, you do want it to idle higher when its cold
but I do recall hearing about people bypassing their fitv, so I'm sure it can be done
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine. -
i did it with mine but it didnt fix my problem however i had a "problem" with my headswap.
same intake setup as your's and my problem was due to a bad IACV, so it would idle high no matter what i changedComment
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yes, its possible, it wont hurt the motor, not at all...it shouldnt change idle.....
on my setup, i have the h23 plenum on the a6 runners, it idles hella good, at 1.5k rpm when cold and drops down to 700rpm when warm....awesome, no bog, no nothing, just pure smooth idle constante idle, even when its warming up!!! i dont no y alot of people get bad idles when they mess with the intake manifold, not to mention, i also block the egr and the dashpot diagram off tooo....super good idle!Comment
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Well, when I did the swap I got a code for the IACV, and my idle was surging...I had an extra one lying around, so I changed it and that code went away. Now, when it's warm it idles at 700-800, but when it's cold it idles at about 2k, and the extra air is coming from the FITV (or is it FIV??). I'm gonna try and bypass it and maybe do a DIY.Originally posted by wed3k
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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Why not try fixing the FITV instead of bypassing it on your daily driver that needs it for your winters. If you were in a warm area I could see doing that, but not where live.Originally posted by gloryaccordy
There is a thread on FITV adjustment, search for it.Comment
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u should be ok by block off the fiv or bypassing it, as many newer honda motors dont even have it, such as the civics, prelude, crv, integras, legends, vigor and so on....the fiv i have only seen them on older hondas and acuras...but they shouldnt cause a problem when u block of bypass them even when u live in super cold weather.....now if you live in super cold weather, u may not want to block or bypass the electronic air control valveLast edited by Caution; 10-15-2006, 04:32 AM.Comment
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ummmm unless im confused does it idle that high untill it warms up??
if so thats normal so why would you want to bypass that to stop it?
im probably missing something here but mine idles high untill its warmed up and then it drops to about 750 so i dont know but i dont get no CEL and it runs good.Comment
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the fiv makes the motor rev up and down when the air flow is mess up or low on coolant, or mess up sensor on the intake manifolds...it just depends....but it shouldnt even idle at 2k when it super cold, it should only be 1.5k....the cold high idle is because of the eacv, its control by the coolant temp and monitor by the ecu...at certain temperature the valve on the eacv should be at a certain opening only..... now if the ratio of temp/open on the eacv is off, it will throw a cel......the eacv is a backdoor for extra air when the motor is colder so that on cold start warm up the motor dont stall out and die on idle.....Comment
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I thought the FITV brought the idle higher so that the engine block would warm up faster? And the FITV has no electronic connections, it looks like it's completely mechanical. The IACV looks like it's controlled by the ECU and activates under low flow conditions like idle and throttle tip in under 1500 RPM.Originally posted by Caution
I know for a fact that once the car is warmed up the FITV doesn't come into play. In any case I'm gonna clean it out, tighten it down and see if it works better.
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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