Car suddenly won't crank over?!

[Torqstr]

I must if it's spinning when I short it with a screwdriver. Not sure if it's ENOUGH power to turn over the engine, but still you'd think it would at least make an attempt to spin it over, but it doesn't. When I turn the key nothing happens at all except for the clink noise from some relay in the dash.

[blackcb7]

do you have an alarm, or starter kill for that matter, that might be doing it

[Torqstr]

nope nothing like that.

Like I said I've worked it down to pretty much:

starter
starter solenoid/relay/fuse (where are these (this) item located???)
ignition switch

[rlyons]

I don't think these cars have a starter relay, however they do have an interlock relay. The solenoid is mounted on the starter. If you jump between the small terminal on the starter solenoid to the battery wire on the starter it should crank. When you jumped the two wires on the starter you were jumping between the battery wire and the starter motor wire and that is why it just spun over and not crank. Try going between the small terminal to the front of the solenoid to the battery terminal post on the starter and see if it cranks. The small wire coming to the starter I believe is a fuse link wire and can melt internally and look normal on the outside, pull on the wire and you should feel a weak spot and the rubber insulation will stretch easily. When you turn your switch to start you should have 12 volts of power to the small terminal on the starter. If you have no power comming to the small wire then it is either burn't internally or it could be your ignition switch has failed in the start position. I have one on my bench right now that did just that. I also just checked my manual and fuse #9 in the underdash fuse box controls the starter interlock relay so if it is blown the starter will not crank.

[Torqstr]

well I jumped the little terminal to the battery + terminal and hooked up my battery, guess what? Started right up.

I turned the key to ON (III) and checked the voltage going to the small terminal, my reading was 0.02 volts! So aparently somehow I'm losing voltage seriously in the line. But where should I even start??

Also my other idea was to just go ahead and install a push button start. I could hook it up to where when I push the switch it delivers 12v to the small terminal on the starter. Only if I do this I would like the switch to only work when the key is in the on position. I don't want to accidentaly push the button and the car starts spinning over.......I only want the switch to work when the key is in the ON position.....but in order to do that I think I would have to fix the current wiring problem first and then go off of that wire.

[rlyons]

So are you sure your number 9 fuse is good? I would go ahead and replace that fuse just to be sure, they can look good and still be blown. I would say if it is then it is more than likely your starter cut out relay but then again if it is clicking then it still sounds like the fuse but the relay could be bad. Another option would be to run a 10 gauge or larger wire from the start side of your ignition switch wire directly to the starter small terminal. Check you ignition switch wires and one should be hot at all times, one should be hot when the ignition is turned to the accessory position, one should be hot only when the switch is turned to the start position. If that is the case then your switch is good, if not go to a wrecking yard and pull a switch and put it in yours. If your switch is good then run a wire directly from your start wire from your switch to the small terminal on the starter. You know your starter is good so it should be a simple repair. Like I said I have a switch on my bench right now that failed and caused the same problem you have, I pulled the one from a wrecked car and it works like new. It is a easy task to replace the switch, simply unplug it from the underdash fuse block and pull switch, wiring and all and put in the new one. Hope this helps, if I was closer to you I would be glad to check it out for you. I am a bit surprised how few offers there are on this site to help each other out, I belong to a Cummins diesel site and we help each other all the time. Some will travel hundreds of miles just to help a fellow member get his truck running. Come on guys anyone close enough to help this fellow out?

[Torqstr]

I already pulled a new ignition switch from the junkyard, didn't make ANY difference. I'm pretty sure you're right that it's the starter cut out relay that's blown. But unfortunately nobody seems to be able to tell me where it's located. Also if there's a way to test it once it's removed. Thanks for the help, electrical crap drives me nuts, lol.

[rlyons]

Since you have wired around the clutch switch already then the cutout relay is of no good anyway. Then just wire directly from the start wire on the switch to the small terminal on the starter and it will start just like it should except it will crank without pushing in the clutch. Just use 10 gauge or larger wire and it will be easy to do. Like I said all the ones I have are automatics so I can't tell you where the relay is but I would bet it is the one you hear clicking. I would just wire directly to the starter and forget it.

[Torqstr]

at someone's suggestion I decided to not only visually inspect all fuses, but actually use a voltmeter on them. guess what? I had a burnt fuse that was causing the problem all along

funny how the simplest things can go un-noticed

[rlyons]

Bet it was the number 9 fuse under the dash too huh?

[Torqstr]

cover is missing, I have no way of knowing.

[rlyons]

I'm glad to hear you have it fixed anyway, the simplest things can drive you nuts. The #9 fuse was the only one I could see that it could be. I have made the same mistake before and that is why I said to use a voltmeter. The fuse can fool you.