iab wont work.

[accordztech]

ok guys i have a iab controller here. now its that vacumn box to control the duaphram for the dual runners.

well i hooked it up correctly and wired it up and at the exit vacumn (#13) there is no vacumn at all.

the black and yellow wire is hooked up to the vacumn control box, the pink wire is from the ecu and both have power. but the damn thing just wont work.

i then bought another one...it dont work either! wtf!! is there something im missing or are they just toast?

[NutBucket]

I don't understand your wiring. Black and yellow should goto swtiched 12V and the pink wire should goto pin A17. Both shouldn't have power unless you're turning more then ~4700 rpm.

[accordztech]

ahh i should of explained.

well the pink wire is on the ecu right now. its on the a17 spot where i had to put another pin, and yea i counted right.

its reading at 4 v

then the black line i attacted it to another black and yellow in the vacumn control box outside where the conenctors are..thats at about 12 v i think.

so im confused.!!

[accordztech]

ok i was reading the manual of my car.

i have no vacumn at port 13. so they said take out port 12 and if there is a vacumn then test the IAB plug. which is my case

i havent tested it yet but im confused.

the book said to measure the voltage between the black and yellow terminal and the punk and plue and there shouldnt be any voltage.

now do i put my negitive probe from my tester to the negitive and my positive probe to the positive? or do i just test each wire one by one.

earlier today i tested each wire one by one and the black and yellow was i think 12 volts, the pink and yellow was at 4. this was with the car off. with the car on it was a bit higher but i dont think for the pink and yellow.

they said if there is no mattery voltage measure the voltage betweek blk.yellow and ground and should be a voltage...how do i do that?

they said if none of that works replace the IAB valve which i just replaced 2 times...its making me insane!

[NutBucket]

With the engine at idle disconnect the 2 pin connector. There should be 12 volts between the two wires (doesn't really matter which way you use the probes, one way will read positive the other negative).

The other thing you should do is check the solenoid. With the connector disconnected, measure the resistance between the two terminals of the solenoid itself. It should measure a very low resistance (probably zero or very close to it).

Another thing to check. Rev your engine above 4700 rpm. Then check to see if there is voltage across the two wires. If there is then you should check if the wire from the ECU is shorted to ground (disconnect the "A" harness from the ECU and disconnect the other end from the solenoid, then check resistance to the chassis).

I think you're misreading your manual, unless I'm just confused about what you're telling me.

[accordztech]

thanks man i will try this in the morning.

the ecu pink wire is reading only 4 volts. the resistance on the IAB silinoid is varying from .10 to .50 ohms and flux between there.

ill check the ecu stuff tomorrow, the car isnt here right now.

thanks man.

[NutBucket]

The pink wire from the ECU should read zero at idle.

The resistance in the solenoid looks fine. I would check for shorts and/or broken wires.

[accordztech]

what ohm should i set my tester at? at 200 i think the resistance goes to 1.4 ohms for all of the IAB's

tomorrow i have time to check this stuff.

[NutBucket]

200 should be fine. You can use any range really. The thing you're looking for is a open (infinte resistance) That would mean the solenoid is shot. 1.4 is fine

[accordztech]

thanks, tomorrow morning i will test all this. and find out what my ecu should be putting out. id wish someone else can test theirs to see what voltage they are getting.

i wonder how the IAB works...since it has 2 lines, one pos and one negitive...how does it tell it to open? and at what voltage?

[NutBucket]

IAB works like this. One wire is constant +12. When it's closed, the other wire is grounded via the ECU. When the IAB opens, the other wire is "open" from ground; the circuit isn't completed so the solenoid doesn't activate.

[accordztech]

ok thanks bud check this out.

today i took what i had setup. i checked it with the car off and here is what happend.

the black and yellow wire was connected near the vacumn control box and when the car is off i tested continuity with ground and it was a ground, except with the car on...so im like humm

and the pink and yellow was in continuity with the ground as well...

NOW WITH THE CAR ON....

the pink wire was at battery voltage +14.02 volts.

the black wire is NOW connected to the radio fuse reading at around +14 volts.

i dont know whats up.

is there any way i can test this and MAKE the valve open? perhaps ill make a switch or something.

today i hooked up a wire to the pink one inside the car with a voltmeter...when i WOT i didnt see the power drop. it stayed constant.

so one thing im concidering

a. i have the wires wrong at the ecu (IMPOSSIBLE...its A17)
b. iono haha

[NutBucket]

If you want to test it do this. Put +12 to one wire and ground the other wire. That should make the solenoid close and the secondaries close as well. LMK

[accordztech]

hey i did that and it works, it works perfectly.

so im guessing i have the wrong wire at the ecu. but man that i know for sure was a17....

i counted with the tab on the top from the left top corner...then down then up in a staggerd way and came up to a17.

[Slateboy]

I'm trying to follow this....

A17 is the signal pin at the ECU that emits 12V when the car goes above 4500RPMS. The 12V feed goes to this mysterious black box, that I'm assuming is a vacum control that when fed 12V opens a vacum to the butterfly valve diphragm and opens the valves?

Did I get that right?