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Make sure you adhere COMPLETELY to the tightening sequence.
Failure to do so will result in damage.
I don't know about the others, but the helm's says to do everything in sequence 3 turns at a time. They are not kidding. At 3.5 turns, it starts to bind slightly.
Also, do yourself a major favor and just replace timing belt if it has more than a few thousand miles on it.
I would hate to see a "I installed my cam, and a couple days later by T-belt broke. WTB F22" thread.
And yes, failure to use a torque wrench will result in damage.
BTW you NEED a good torque wrench so you can tighten important fasteners like cam cap bolts to the proper spec. I even use it on the valve cover (9 ft. lbs., I think). If people did that, they wouldn't bitch about breaking the studs all the time like idiots.
LOL! I thought I was about the only one that was that bad!
is the timing belt not a whole other job in itself?
"You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
"the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
"Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland
is the timing belt not a whole other job in itself?
In a manner yes, but realistically if you detension completely with a lot of miles on it, it is a good as removed. You aren't supposed to reuse them.
A lot of people do with mixed results.
It is really more of a preventative caution.
He is actually going to have to remove it completely from the cam anyway, since that is coming out.
I have seen attempts to try and line the belt back up after that, but it didn't quite make it back in the track completely, met something metal, the balance belt, or the cover and basically rubbed until it failed.
More commonly, it ends up 1 tooth off on the timing, in which case you should pull the T-belt apart to verify all the marks again anyway.
There is a right way to do it and a half-assed way. You might get lucky with the half-assed way, you might not. That is why it is half-assed.
Realistically, it is a quick way to double check your work, prevent chaos, and if you end up one tooth off because you were lazy, have you really saved your self time or effort?
Not in my book.
I just waited until the belt and water pump were due anyway, to save time and money. But I was within a few thousand miles anyway, and I can understand not wanting to wait for a long time.
You wouldn't have to ask simple (dumb) questions like that if you had yerself a good manual! Chiltons/factory/whatever
Go buy it and read it like a novel. If you truly like working on cars, and are cut out for it, you will enjoy doing that.
BTW you NEED a good torque wrench so you can tighten important fasteners like cam cap bolts to the proper spec. I even use it on the valve cover (9 ft. lbs., I think). If people did that, they wouldn't bitch about breaking the studs all the time like idiots.
Spoken like a true gentlemen and a scholar. I do the same.
While you're in there, replace the lower spark plug tube seals while the entire rocker assembly is off. Perfect time to do that even if you weren't planning on it
While you're in there, replace the lower spark plug tube seals while the entire rocker assembly is off. Perfect time to do that even if you weren't planning on it
This is the thread I made immediately after. I've been in just about every Delta 272 thread, so if you search that, you'll find my various problems and musings.
Basically, I put in the 272, it wouldn't idle unless the throttle cable was tightened enough to keep the car over 2Krpm. I got pissed off, bought a new car, and rebuilt the F22 from the headgasket up(And timing set as well), and now I've been trying for a year to get it together>started>running>idling>starting again.
This is the thread I made immediately after. I've been in just about every Delta 272 thread, so if you search that, you'll find my various problems and musings.
Basically, I put in the 272, it wouldn't idle unless the throttle cable was tightened enough to keep the car over 2Krpm. I got pissed off, bought a new car, and rebuilt the F22 from the headgasket up(And timing set as well), and now I've been trying for a year to get it together>started>running>idling>starting again.
Sounds like an EMS issue. Cisco (HondaFan81) had to have an ECU chipped and tuned for the car to run because the fueling requirements etc, were so much different. He could probably elaborate better, and in fact I think he did in the thread about his red project.
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