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Fuel pump fixed... new problem now.

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    Fuel pump fixed... new problem now.

    Ok so I was having a problem with my car not starting... it was cranking normally, but it wouldn't start. So I took off the dizzy and tested the control module and coil. They both were good, and I put em back on what I thought was normally. I just got my fuel pump in today, and when i tried to start the car it made a whining noise like the timing was messed up, then it backfired. I'm thinking its gotta be dizzy wiring issues since it was cranking normally before. Anyone got any ideas?

    #2
    bump... i need an answer on this.

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      #3
      did you take the whole dizzy off or just the cap?

      If you removed the whole thing try adjusting the dizzy if you did
      Hi, I'm Shippo and I have a problem. I keep buying CB7's.

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        #4
        a problem i was having, was i took the dizzy off, and the fork only splines into the cam 1 way, and i put the fork on 180 out...i am doing a hella bad job explaining this, but you can try taking the fork off that is being held in by a circular clip and a pin, and turning it around 180* and trying that...

        just an idea
        My baby laying down some power...

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kd_Q8HSIyqA

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          #5
          Well I tried rotating the dizzy 180 degrees, but it didn't do anything. I coulda swore the fuel pump was the problem, because I couldn't hear the pump. I'm starting to think that it jumped timing or the belt came off. It doesn't make sense to me though because when it first wouldn't start, it cranked normally. Now it whines and backfires... so I don't know whats up.

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            #6
            heres the video of it trying to crank. I think its 180 off because of how fast its cranking. But it makes that noise no matter what.. heres the link:

            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TC9YiSJTRAc

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              #7
              it's sounds like your starters not even touching the flywheel or something. it's weird, you can't even hear the compression stroke. later.
              Avoiding dirt at all costs

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                #8
                sounds a lot like no compression.

                are you getting spark and fuel?

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                  #9
                  Yes, spark and fuel actually.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    It backfires = there's both spark and fuel. (and the starter is moving the engine)

                    For a backfire I'd suspect incorrect spark timing. I didn't read you verified that the plug wires were on the right spots for the distributor and at the head. Also, you moved your distributor 180 but is that correct, or was it originally correct? At this point you should verify where TDC is so that you're certain the dizzy and plug wires are correct.

                    Incorrect valve timing is less likely, because it's more rare for the belt to jump a tooth or break. But if you think it may have broken pull the cap and see if the rotor spins when cranking.
                    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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                      #11
                      I double checked the wires earlier, everything is good there. I'm going to try to rotate the distributor one more time 180 degrees to see if maybe i'm just a moron, but I think I'm gonna set it to TDC first. Deckeda.. do you mind explaining how to do it in laymans terms. I know i can figure it out sooner or later, but the manual often confuses me more than it helps.

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                        #12
                        Since you took off the entire distributor, and put it back on, you messed up the ignition timming. Put the number 1 piston at TDC, with the rotor pointing at number 1 spark plug wire. Then get yourself a timming light and do it right.
                        Last edited by 4CYLPOWER92; 08-13-2006, 02:09 AM.

                        My swap thread
                        Main relay proplems?--DIY

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by wrichards2005
                          do you mind explaining how to do it in laymans terms. I know i can figure it out sooner or later, but the manual often confuses me more than it helps.
                          With your distributor cap off, turn the engine counter clockwise until the rotor is pointing at the number one spark plug wire location. Then look through the hole in the transmission for the TDC mark. You will need to turn the engine very slowly when you get close to the mark, or you will pass it. Not sure if your car is 5spd or not. TDC mark on a 5spd is a + mark. If you don't see the mark at all, turn the engine over another complete cycle until the rotor is pointing at number 1 again. Cause you don't want to be at TDC on the exhaust stroke. Put the cap back on the distributor.

                          To set the timming correctly, first bridge the service connector under the glove box with a paper clip. Your check engine light will light up when the engine is running. Then, with the engine running, hook up your timming light and point it through the hole in the transmission. You need to turn the distributor forward or backwards till you find the mark for 15degrees before TDC. That mark looks something like...

                          --
                          -----
                          --
                          Set the distributor so the pointer is on the middle mark, then tighten the distributor bolts.

                          My swap thread
                          Main relay proplems?--DIY

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                            #14
                            Yeah but what if my engine doesn't run... then what do i do?
                            Last edited by wrichards2005; 08-15-2006, 12:40 PM.

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                              #15
                              I'm not sure if this is wired right but it seems like theres only one way it can go.. and besides it has spark, but here it is:


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