Massive electrical problem

[jumpman83]

I've got a problem that keeps getting more and more confusing. Some of you might remember me saying the fuse that sends power from the battery to the main relay was blowing. It stopped when I got a new fuel pump because the fuel pump's ohm rating was 1/3 of what it should have been on the old one. I made it about 200 miles before it started blowing that fuse again, but now with a new twist- whatevever it is can drain Optima battery in 11 minutes. I don't understand how, but an Optima 34m, blue top deepcycle with a 120minute reserve that I've gotten to play my stereo on 3/4 volume for almost 3 hours is going from an almost full charge (11.8V) to barely putting enough out to support the car's lights (low 9's) in 11 minutes. Sounds like a bad battery, except just a week ago it was putting out the voltage it's supposed to for the time it's supposed to, and I doubt it could go that sour that fast, and that doesn't make the blowing fuse make sense. A short makes sense for the fuse, but every wire is testing as high at it's origin as its end. Another odd thing, I had the stereo on very low when it drained the battery in that 11 minutes. When it got to it's lowest on power, the headunit started turning on and off like it would at any time on low power, but this time every light on the car dimmed dramatically, way more than it should have or ever has, and instead of turning off and back on for a while, then off and back on for a while like usual, it would go off and on and off again within seconds. There must be a short somewhere in a place where it effects EVERYTHING. But if you think too much about it, that'd be any component in the whole car. Despite being an indicator that there's a greater problem, I don't believe it's the stereo, it's all fresh wire well run and correctly wrapped. So all things considered, where do I start?

[wills_accord]

Did you try using another battery to see if it would do the same thing? Its also funny that you name is JUMPMAN and you cant figuar out whats going on with your battery LOL.

[xfactortype1]

1st, pull the radio and re-check your connection, maybe a wire is pinched behind the dash causing it to short. next check the condition or your grounds like your negative battery cable. cleaning your groud contact points can make a big difference. when you turn the ignition on(engine not running) does your battery light come on? if it does-does it go out when you start it? are you getting any cels? maybe a code 20 for bad eld system? also did this problem occure after you put in the new radio?


check your charging system.. your alternator and starter. bad ones can drain a system. in the alternator it could be a bad voltage regulator. take it to autozone or some place to test it for free.


in an unrealted note..i had my new engine put in and had a similar problem with a short issue. it wound up being a pinched blk/yellow wire that controlled a solenoid on the intake( which is useless when you install a CAI. so maybe you have a pinched blk/yellow wire behind the dash. cuz that wire affects everything as you say. hope it helps..
goodluck

x

[jumpman83]

Did you try using another battery to see if it would do the same thing? Its also funny that you name is JUMPMAN and you cant figuar out whats going on with your battery LOL.

Indeed I did, yes it did, and I suppose it is. I'm not a high jumper anymore either, I probably should change my name...

[jumpman83]

1st, pull the radio and re-check your connection, maybe a wire is pinched behind the dash causing it to short. next check the condition or your grounds like your negative battery cable. cleaning your groud contact points can make a big difference. when you turn the ignition on(engine not running) does your battery light come on? if it does-does it go out when you start it? are you getting any cels? maybe a code 20 for bad eld system? also did this problem occure after you put in the new radio?


check your charging system.. your alternator and starter. bad ones can drain a system. in the alternator it could be a bad voltage regulator. take it to autozone or some place to test it for free.


in an unrealted note..i had my new engine put in and had a similar problem with a short issue. it wound up being a pinched blk/yellow wire that controlled a solenoid on the intake( which is useless when you install a CAI. so maybe you have a pinched blk/yellow wire behind the dash. cuz that wire affects everything as you say. hope it helps..
goodluck

x

I'll check these, There are a few I'd say no to now, but I'll double check before anything.

[jumpman83]

$40 for the guy who could guess this to a point- The exhaust manifold melted the insulation on a huge section of one of the wires of the 02 sensor, causing a short.

[accordztech]

full charge is 11.8v? not really, thats like 15% charge

if ur car is running at 11.8 volts then something else is up like your alternator. tell me ur cars voltage is higher than that at idle.

[NAiL05]

As mentioned could be your alternator itself. You check if the plug on the back of the laternator is on...Mine comes loose every now and then. If you have a DVOM you can check the voltage and see if your alternator is charging properly. If its still giving you 11.8 or so with engine off and the battery tests fine then your alternator is no good.

[accordztech]

well if the car turns off and the voltage goes down to 11.8 it can point to either alternator or the battery not willing to accept the charge. but it may be like that cause its not recieving a good enough charge

the best way to test an alternator is to have a known good battery, and a normal battery at rest will show around 12.1 volts.

[jumpman83]

full charge is 11.8v?

no

from an almost full charge (11.8V)

I ran out of things to do and took it off the charger and threw it in the car before it could get to the 12.3 volts it usually shows.

[NAiL05]

12.3 is not regular. regular with a good battery and chargining alternator should read close to 14v.

[xfactortype1]

i have a wiring diagram that shows a blk/yellow wire that runs from the ecu to basically everything..to bad i cant scan it.. well im glad you figured it out. shorts are the worst thing to figure. good luck with the whip

regards x

[xfactortype1]

fuel level sending unit?

im no fuel injection specialist, but if your having problems blowing fuses going uphill, have you checked the resistance of the fuel level sending unit?

1)-remove the fuel level sending unit from the tank.
2)-position the ohmeter probes on electircal terminal and check resistance.
3)-check resistance with the float completely lowered(simulates empty tank). The resistance should be 105 to 109 ohms.
4)- now check the resistance of the unit with the float at the highest point (simulates full tank). The resistance should be 2-5 ohms.
5)-if the reading are incorrect or there is very little change in resistance as the float traveks from full to empty, replace the sending unit.

This could explain why your blowing fuses, due to the lack of change in resistance or the float is sticking.


hope the info helps.

regards x

[jumpman83]

A battery's not going to show 14v unless the car is running. 12.6 is average for a battery at rest.

Yeah, I know which wire you're talking about, I've got a shop manual I downloaded off Honda Hookup. That wire was scaring the hell out of me because when I figured out it was there, I figured out that the problem could be anywhere. Luckally I got around to undoing connectors before having to follow it any closer. BTW, you realize you posted a congratulations for having found the problem, followed by advise on what to do about it, lol?

[laz93se]

i recently just changed the main relay brand new and now when i try to start the car the relay makes a fast clicking sound for about 5 to 10 seconds then the car would start up,would it be the fuel pump thats acting up on me?