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    #31
    Originally posted by Ilikebigbutts
    check to see if your rear main seal is leaking.if it replace it.

    ILBB

    So I took all the clutch components and flywheel off today, disc was toast. As for the rear main seal its not leaking at all. One of my co-workers told me to change it since you have all that out. What do you guysa think? Just leave it alone since its completely dry or go ahead and chage it out. I was just alittle hesitant to mess with it cause the service manual was to check the clearence with a feeler gauge and if you even nick or scratch the crankshaft you will have leaks. So I don't really know if its really worth all that to mess with something thats perfectly fine so far. So for all you out thier with more knowldege experience give me your two cents cause if so i'll just go ahead and buy one tomorrow and give it a shot.

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      #32
      Originally posted by doylna
      Are you kidding?! I was quoted $750 on two different occasions in Chicago (from different shops)

      I had parts in hand and had my clutch installed with flywheel resurfaced for 250 in the chicagoland area.

      I think for the clutch and the OEM t/o I paid 200. It's a centerforce stage one clutch.

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        #33
        Originally posted by do0dfromcali
        I had parts in hand and had my clutch installed with flywheel resurfaced for 250 in the chicagoland area.

        I think for the clutch and the OEM t/o I paid 200. It's a centerforce stage one clutch.
        Hrm, well I thought $750 was expensive - but I'm about 850 miles from Chicago now. Thanks for the headsup though.

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          #34
          Bump

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            #35
            Originally posted by Ilikebigbutts
            DEFFINATLY buy an OEM throw out bearing.My throwout bearing that came with my xtd kit already took a shit on me.Deff. buy an original honda one.

            o and get back to as how much of a bitch it is daily driving w/ an 8 pounder and a stage 3 haha!

            ILBB
            Usually..Honda Parts are MORE expensive than aftermarket..BUT...I know for a fact ..the HONDA OEM clutch isn't as smooth as an EXEDY clutch.. my boy Eugene had his clutch changed out when he got a new drivetrain..and its smooth as warm butter going on toast.
            92 LX. A6 with GUDE bullfrog Cam. M2S4 transmission..Gutted H23 intake mani. The rest you will just have to find out!


            MR Thread:
            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=174586
            My tribute page: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=70489

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              #36
              Anybody have any tips on how to get that rear main engine seal out. I've been trying to get it out for alittle bit now and it wont even budge. I don't wanna give it too much either and scratch or nick the crankshaft. Any suggestions I borrowed one of my co-workers rubber mallet to put the new one in and I wanna get the old one out and new one in tonight so I can give him hismallet back tomorrow.

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                #37
                Got the seal out last night with a nice long skinny screwdriver. But now I can't get the new one on. I was trying for a good couple of hours last night with no success. Anybody thats put thier inbefore got any suggestions cause its definetly a PITA right now, I tried using some motor oil on the lip with no success. Today I even tried using multi purpose grease like the haynes manual say but still wont go on, the best I can do is get a portion of it in but once I start tapping it one side goes in while the other is coming out. any suggestions would deinetly help. Thanks for any input cause it would be appreciated.

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                  #38
                  a large cylindrical object that will push the edges of the seal at once?
                  not sure what to tell you, i want to change mine but i dont want to get stuck like you :o
                  I <3 G60.

                  0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by 1990HybridCB7
                    How long have you had your XTD for? what are you running on your H23? I have the stage three so hopefully that makes somekind of a difference. Anybody have thier XTD clutch in thier car for a good time yet? Hows it holding up is so. I know thier was somebody on here that had one for 11,xxx miles and said it was holding up good, anybody else?
                    8k miles. I'm I/H/E, 12lb flywheel, stage 1 cams, and MRX ECU
                    Originally posted by DoctorCipher
                    ...the beginner forum was created to provide a place for all the stupid ass questions to pile up and fester, kind of like huge globs of mayonnaise left in the sun for weeks at a time.

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                      #40
                      I used a ring-roller, and made a tool to press mine in. Or, find a pipe with the same diameter and cut a piece off to use as a tool to press it in. Also, you should not use oil to lube the outer edge, they surfaces between outer edge of the gasket and the inner of the seat should be clean...... Heat helps seat the new gasket once the car warms up at start-up. There should be lube between the inside of the seal, and the outer edge of the crank.
                      1992 Accord LX - SOLD

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                        #41
                        Yea, it definetly came with the lub in it already. So your saying that I shouldn't put on any kind of lubrication on it? I tried motot oil and multi-purpose grease. The Honda service manual said to put a light film of oil and the haynes manual said oil or grease, tried both with no luck. So you guys think the only way to do it is with a driver or something that has the diameter as big as the seal. Thats the only thing I didn't try cause I was thinking that thier has to have been somebody out thier thats done it without it. I just used a piece of wood to dive it in and tapping it in the rest of the way with a socket extentsion to no avail.

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                          #42
                          Well the tool worked good for me, I don't know about any other peeps that have replaced the seal. I had the resources so..... About the oil.....a light film should be okay, but don't load it up too much.
                          1992 Accord LX - SOLD

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                            #43
                            Finally got the seal in. My cousin came over to help me out. He just kinda pushed it in by hand than went around it with a 18mm socket and sat it flush with an edge of wood. Slapped the flywheel on thier and clutch and Pressure plate and slapped the tranny back on. He left and now i'm just tightening the tranny bolts so the trans is snug against the block then i'll torque em down. I'm gonna take a break right now though ( my job is thrwoing a crab feast) so i'm gonna go eat me some crab and shrimp and come back later tonight and see how much I can finish before I get too sleepy.

                            Thanks for all the help to everybody that gave me their advice, it really helped me out wherever I got stuck. Thanks again.

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by 1990HybridCB7
                              ...and come back later tonight and see how much I can finish before I get too sleepy...
                              Oh, you'll be high on crab meat. You'll be up for days :P
                              Originally posted by DoctorCipher
                              ...the beginner forum was created to provide a place for all the stupid ass questions to pile up and fester, kind of like huge globs of mayonnaise left in the sun for weeks at a time.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Finally Finished!!

                                Well thanks for all the help to all those that gave it to me. It was really help me and directed me in the right dirction with chaging the main oil seal, getting the OEM T/O bearing and other thing along these lines. Car started up fine and drove just as well. That six puck mated to the 8LB is awsome So far so good. Put 100 miles last night breaking it in, 400 to go. Slips alittle but XTD's do that during the break in period right? It revs alittle quicker from the flywheel to, nothing to major but you can tell the difference. Like this wasn't expected, but any suggestions during the break in period that would be beneficial? Still pretty excited by that fact that I actually accomplished this all on my own (With the help from some friends) and got it up and running and not paying some shop to do it for me. Definetly got that sense of accomplishment all you guys talk about, may not be too big of a job for others but this is my first time doing ANYTHING along these lines to my car. Thanks again to everybody for the support and tips, all you guys really helped out. Just got break it in now and feel the full potential of my H22

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