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    #1

    Changing clutch/flywheel

    Title says it all. This Friday I will be attempting to change my clutch and flywheel. I was just posting this up so anybody/everybody can give me tips/advice to make this a smoother swap for me. I have a clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and the flywheel. Is thier anything else i'm leaving out that I should put in along with anything else? I'm gonna try it with some classmates from my auto tech class. My only real concern is taking out the axles. I will be taking my sweet time with this because this is my very first time trying anything this big before and wanna learn from it and do it right the first time. Also should anything be done to the flywheel before installation such as balancing or something like that or does it just bolt right up? All of this is going into my H with the tranny to match. I probably left out some more questions but this is long enough and I'll add them when I remeber or if I have anymore. Any help is really appreciated.

    P.S. I have an XTD stage three clutch and 8lb fidanaza flywheel. Also, which throwout bearing would you guys recommend? The one with the kit or an OEM throw out bearing.
    Tags: None
    #2
    OEM T/O berring! and greese it up real well before you install it! Some of the others whine after about 10k miles or so.

    Tips....hmmm, make sure you got a 12-point 10mm and a 12-point 17mm and a good gun. That makes gettin the press. plate and flywheel off a lot easier. If you don't have a gun, use a breaker bar and either use a flywheel holder or lodge the u/d pulled in place to keep it from spinning. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the flywheel or pressure plate bolts when you go to install it. As for flywheel balancing, you shouldn't have to since it's brand new and since it's already lightened, you don't really want to shave any more weight off of it. Axles are cake, but drain the trans fluid first. And be easy on your sus bolts/nuts or else you'll have to replace a few more things too. It's pretty easy. I think first clutch took me like 8 hours to do but it's a 45min to 2 hour thing now.

    My Accord History:
    91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

    -Patrick

    Comment

      #3
      Make sure you get a good torque wrench too.

      Flywheel bolts - 76 lb-ft
      Pressure plate bolts - 19 lb-ft
      Originally posted by DoctorCipher
      ...the beginner forum was created to provide a place for all the stupid ass questions to pile up and fester, kind of like huge globs of mayonnaise left in the sun for weeks at a time.

      Comment

        #4
        DEFFINATLY buy an OEM throw out bearing.My throwout bearing that came with my xtd kit already took a shit on me.Deff. buy an original honda one.

        o and get back to as how much of a bitch it is daily driving w/ an 8 pounder and a stage 3 haha!

        ILBB
        People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

        Mk3 Supra Member #2

        Originally posted by DarkShadow707
        The world needs to be reset.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by Ilikebigbutts
          DEFFINATLY buy an OEM throw out bearing.My throwout bearing that came with my xtd kit already took a shit on me.Deff. buy an original honda one.

          o and get back to as how much of a bitch it is daily driving w/ an 8 pounder and a stage 3 haha!

          ILBB
          Yea, I heard daily driving a 6ix puck is pretty bad, should be fun with an 8 pounder on top of that huh. I did also hear that its not too bad either, anybody else got any input on this?

          BTW Ilikebigbutts, hows your XTD clutch kit holding up?

          InvaderTrax, my classmates have a couple so I'll use thiers . like Acclude91 said, I definetly don't wanna overtighten my flywheel/pressure plate bolts.


          ACCLUDE91, thanks for those tips, I'll deinetly take not to borrow one of my co-workers 10 and 17mm 12 points. Don't got any kinda gun so I hope its not much harder with simple hand tools. What do you mean by "And be easy on your sus bolts/nuts", do they break easily or something? Just wanan know so I can be cautious about it.

          Comment

            #6
            my clutch seems to be holding up fine...it got 2k on it and i beat teh shit out of it...plus its a stage 1 the stage three should take some beating before it pukes

            The bolts dont break easy atleast for me they didnt i just tightened them to specs and everything seems fine.My noisy throwout bearing is pissing me off though please buy an oem one save yourself soem headaches.

            ILBB
            People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

            Mk3 Supra Member #2

            Originally posted by DarkShadow707
            The world needs to be reset.

            Comment

              #7
              yup! InvaderTrax posted the torque specs so make sure you torque them to spec. Plus, they are 12 points so they strip easy. As for the sus., there's a few ways to do it, but you HAVE TO undo at least one ball joint castle nut and they do not like to come off easy. Once you get it off, you still gotta pop the threaded part of the ball joint out of place and they tend to get crushed or flattened beyond use when you try to bang it out of the socket. They make tools to pop them out without doing damage but if the ball joint is questionable to begin with then you might want to go ahead and replace it anyways.

              My Accord History:
              91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

              -Patrick

              Comment

                #8
                Buy you some 12 point sockets good stuff =D. Always good to have six/twelve points just in case. But yea as mentioned OEM throwout bearing ftw. And basically people have given you the tips i plan on installing my xtd stage 3 soon dont gotta flywheel though =( Gonna use OEM and resurface cuz im poor like that =D.

                The New-ish Ride
                My old Ride
                Hear my Vtak!!!
                MK3 Member #3
                I piss off people for fun.
                IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by NAiL05
                  Buy you some 12 point sockets good stuff =D. Always good to have six/twelve points just in case. But yea as mentioned OEM throwout bearing ftw. And basically people have given you the tips i plan on installing my xtd stage 3 soon dont gotta flywheel though =( Gonna use OEM and resurface cuz im poor like that =D.

                  $165, shipped off ebay for the 8 pound fidanza .




                  ACCLUDE91, can't you just hit the LCA with some kind of rubber hammer till the ball joint seprates from the ball joint, thats all they ever seem to do at the Honda dealership I work at and works to perfection for them, I heard those ball joint seperators can cause more damage than good sometimes like strip the threads.


                  Ilikebigbutts, my throwout bearing was making that groaning noise ever since I got the swap done, so were definetly on the same boat with that one, thats the whole reason why i'm changing everything. It'll definetly be weird to have a quiet tranny( or whatever you wannna call it) once I get rid of the bad throw out bearing LOL.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    aim co clutches, best deals on ebay

                    Comment

                      #11
                      I've posted in the past that I need a clutch replacement sometime soon. If I were to take it to a shop, how much would they charge? I called AAMCO a couple of days ago and they won't estimate over the phone - I need to bring it in and have it inspected.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Most local, nonchain shops will do it for around $400. Also, just for reference, my H23 is starting to push the limits of my XTD stage 1 clutch. If I don't space out my runs at the track by at least 20 minutes, it won't grip well. Then again, I was on it a little too hard on it. If it does die on me, I'll try the stage 2
                        Originally posted by DoctorCipher
                        ...the beginner forum was created to provide a place for all the stupid ass questions to pile up and fester, kind of like huge globs of mayonnaise left in the sun for weeks at a time.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by InvaderTrax
                          Most local, nonchain shops will do it for around $400.
                          Are you kidding?! I was quoted $750 on two different occasions in Chicago (from different shops)

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by doylna
                            Are you kidding?! I was quoted $750 on two different occasions in Chicago (from different shops)
                            Just for labor?

                            That is bad. When I am ready for a clutch I am going to be looking for someone to help me do it. Any takers?
                            Gary A.K.A. Carter
                            [sig killed by photobucket]

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by The G-Man
                              Just for labor?

                              That is bad. When I am ready for a clutch I am going to be looking for someone to help me do it. Any takers?
                              That was for parts and labor. Patisnky on here has his clutch services for sale. If he wasn't so far away, I would have had him do it for me.

                              Comment

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