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just wondering if all accords came with MAPs that can read around 10 psi without being confused, or if some have lower limits...thanks guys and gals!
justin
yeah, i guess he cant make more then 5psi of boost. he said he checked the chargepipes and intercooler and shit, but it stops at 5. hes running a internallay wastegated IHI turbo off like an npr truck or somthing, so who knows what the wastegate actuator is set to. it sure sounds like something simple tho.
If boost is coming in really slow and late into the rpm's the wastegate flapper could be partially open. Does he even have a boost controller...thats functional?
Try this for a quick and easy test BUT BE FUCKING CAREFUL!!! disconnect the vac source on the wastegate. Start from a 4th gear pull at about 2500rpm, boost will climb slow enough for you to figure out if its the wastegate, its spring, or something else. Just try to get to about 8psi. and shut off cause if u keep going you'll be boosting till like 30psi or whatever the turbo can physically spool to.
sidenote: make sure to have the pcv line going to the intake manifold plugged.. and an oil catch can installed.. and the other vent hose plugged or going into a catch can... kk... lol
ok starting from the top (and thanks for the input guys)
midnite~ i was wondering about our generation, trying to figure if maybe different trim levels of accords come with different MAP's like GM models, ruling out a MAP sensor that cant see more then 5 psi to maybe try and solve my boost problem...but if they all have 10.8 caps, then thta is out
Mike~ the wastegate doesnt have a 5 psi spring, correct me if i am wrong, but when you want to up the boost on an internally gated turbo, the easiest way is to change the actuator length, either shortening it to make more boost, and lengthing it to make less (see pic under)~ my turbo has a threaded actuator, which is then made to adjust the boost right on that, without having to change out the spring which is what you are suggesting...I have tried lengthening it and shortening it to see if that makes a difference, and so far it hasnt~
midnite again~ Boost begins to build around 3.75k...and my boost controller is the actuator locked down as well as me watching the gauge to make sure i dont have a boost spike lol. I was thinking about removing the vac source to the wastegate and doing it that way, but at my current stage i would kinda like to have more milage on the car before taking the chance to it jumping to 10ish...that is kinda a last resort~I am also 100% sure that the wastegate isnt opening, i have an open dump, and it sounds 21343453x's different then the regular exhaust, and i would be able to hear (as well as smell) the differences in the exhaust if indeed the wastegate was just made for 5 psi...
Wikked, and i geuss to all~ Why do i need the PCV removed and capped off? I realize that the boost going into the intake manifold could potentially get into my crankcase, but how can it when i have a functional PCV (which i have tested, and is a great working one way check valve) and also a breather hole in the top of my valve cover?
Also to all~ i have checked all the charge piping for leaks, replaced the connectors of charge pipes, checked to make sure the diaphram in the wastegate actuator is working and doesnt have a rip, only thing i am really thinking, is the mixture does get REALLY rich (using midnite's v25 map), i mean we are talking like <10, when i get to around 5 psi at about 4500 rpm, so maybe my innability to take it high in the rpm band is the cause for this? It is weird tho, because i can take it higher in the rpm band then 4500, and when i am there, i donthave more then 5 psi and the car feels like it is bogging liek a moda fucka~
are there any other reasons you can think of that i might be overlooking? There are no leaks around the intake mani (checked by spraying starter fluid while idleing), i resealed the TB as well as seperated the upper and lower intake plenum and resealed them as well, just got a new vac manifold and replaced all vac lines, like i said, checked the diaphram in the wastegate, charge pipes, couplers, the intercooler is intact (doesnt have direct contact with flying debris when driving) and the BOV is functional....
maybe i should try plugging the PCV for shits and giggles??
Is full throttle launch on by any chance? I ask that cause there is a boost cut in uber (not sure if it works or not) but it'd be like hitting a rev limiter once u went over a certain psi, it wouldn't let you keep boosting.
Its most likely something with the wastegate. Disconnect it, do the 4th gear pull like i stated and just roll into the throttle slowly.
About the PCV thing...when it fails how do you know? There are no warning devices, there are no real warning signs. When mine failed i was able to blow air right through it.
Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12
yeah i know that it works.. when installing matts (92whiteaccord) turbo setup.. it was engaged by accident.. i was having trouble in uber so i used todd's F22B DOHC.. to make sure the ecu was working (toine u know what eventually happend)..
anyway.. that boost cut was set right at 1psi.. so as soon as he went full throttle.. it was like chuck chuck chuck uncontrollably.. so i suggest try running a different map.. maybe an older version of mrx's basemap to see if that solves the problem.. if the boost cut is infact engaging its pretty noticeable.. not just some "bogging"..
funny you guys say about the boost cut, with your map mrx, when i lay into it, i will get to about 4.5-5 k, maybe a bit less (i juggle chips with different maps on them) and the car will just die, like it will buck, and then die, it is fucked, bc the vac is still at like 24-26 in/hg but no rpms, no nothing...i then put it in a lower gear and let off the clutch trying to jump it, and the rpms will go up, and i give it gas and the vac/boost gauge will go to zero or wherever else depending on how much i lean into it, and the car wont rev, so i ahve to pull the car over, turn the ignition off, then it will start up and run fine....
is this what you are talking about with the boost cut?
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