Radio off when brakes applied

[crewfish13]

Okay, I've done a bit of searching, and nobody seems to have my exact problem. I think it may be a failing alternator, as I don't know how old mine is, but didn't want to shell out the money for one before checking with you guys. Here's the story:

Driving home from autocross today, my car (93 EX 2DR w/ ABS) started acting really odd. When I tapped the brakes (not even hard enough to brake, just taking up the pedal play and turning the light on), my radio and clock would blink off and on, and the ABS light (or maybe SRS, I can't seem to recall) would come on for like a half second. It got to be pretty predictable - hit the pedal, and the CD player stops for a second. The head unit was giving the the power-on message, so I know it was losing power very briefly.

Once I got it back to my parking lot, I tried some simple troubleshooting. Unfortunately, I can't find my multimeter, which would be the most useful tool. However, every light in my dash and the clock dimmed significantly when operating the power windows. When I stalled the motor by topiing out the window and attempting to put it up further, everything got dimmer still.

So, like I said, I think I'm dealing with a dying alternator that just can't put out the amps like it used to, but I wanted to see what you all thought. You've never let me down before

[Crazemonie]

lol damn that sucks! check all the wires and related objects and get a new alt. good luck!

[Abeerdrinker]

rotted ground wire perhaps?

[xfactortype1]

maybe it just your voltage regulator..test that..i think its replaceable on our cars right? if im wrong correct me please. other two things maybe eld system( usually code 20 cel), or loose wire?

regards with it. lets us know

tomd

[wrichards2005]

The regulator is internal, on the alternator. You can't replace it unless you find just the regulator I believe. It does sound like a ground/alternator issue though, go have the alternator tested, preferably off the car, but autozone can test it on the car too.

[HenRoc]

Heres what you do.

Go to AutoZone or any other parts store and have them test out the voltage the car is putting out.

The biggest issue I had in my old car was that the ground terminal on the battery was corodded (sp?) theres the main black ground and then theres a smaller one that branches off of it check that whole unit if it is fried, then a new one would probably cost around 15-20 new from the dealer, but I ended up stealing one from a junkyard to save some money.

Get youself a voltage tester and keep in your set of tools. They always come in handy.

[crewfish13]

Heres what you do.

Go to AutoZone or any other parts store and have them test out the voltage the car is putting out.

The biggest issue I had in my old car was that the ground terminal on the battery was corodded (sp?) theres the main black ground and then theres a smaller one that branches off of it check that whole unit if it is fried, then a new one would probably cost around 15-20 new from the dealer, but I ended up stealing one from a junkyard to save some money.

Get youself a voltage tester and keep in your set of tools. They always come in handy.

I know it's not the nagative cable because it's only about a month old. I just replaced it and made sure all the contacts were nice and tight. I'm going to dig through some boxes tonight and see if I can find my multimeter. I may hit up Autozone as well. I hadn't thought of that.

[crewfish13]

I know it's not the nagative cable because it's only about a month old. I just replaced it and made sure all the contacts were nice and tight. I'm going to dig through some boxes tonight and see if I can find my multimeter. I may hit up Autozone as well. I hadn't thought of that.

Well, maybe I'm to blame. I took a look under the hood last night, and realized that I remember doing a rather iffy splice job when installing the negative battery cable (on the wire the goes to the fender). Sure enough, it's a pretty lousy looking splice. I'm going to redo it tonight and see if that changes things.

Damn intermittent electrical problems

[ACCLUDE91]

that's prolly it. It sucks, but any time you modify something and have issues shortly afterwards it's probably the related to the work you just did.

[The G-Man]

Do you have a remote starter?

[crewfish13]

Nope. I've got a 5 speed, so a remote starter's not worth the trouble.

I turned up my stereo and wiggled the connection over lunch, and never heard it cut out. So, I'm starting to lean towards the alternator, as the connection, although pretty ugly, apparently holds a current.

Also, I'm having my ABS light come on every so often. Today, it's come on every time I drive the car, and did the same about a week ago, but it hasn't come on in the meantime. Could this be related?

[PakaloloHonda]

Interesting .. I just had the same thing happen to me, and .. it was my alternator.
Does your cluster (mph and rpm) drop to just about nothing as well?
Does the alt. light in the cluster appear? Do your headlights dim when also depressing
the brakes? These were symtoms I experianced. I'd do a test on it also, just to be sure.
Weird that the ABS light is coming on, instead of the Alt. light tho ..

A Hui Hou !!!
Tomi

[phreakishchick]

From what you described it could be PARTIALLY a problem with the alternator it could be more based in the electrical system....once you get the alternator fixed that is how you will know.

[crewfish13]

Let's see if anyone buys this theory. I've been thinking about it, and the two are probably connected. I haven't had any electrical problems when the system is disabled, so the problem may well be within the ABS.

What about a failing ABS sensor that's shorting out? That would explain my ABS throwing a idiot light and disabling. Additionally, when the sensor is kind-of working, the ABS doesn't realize it's shorting and remaind active. Then, when I hit the brakes, the sensor gets activated (as I'd assume the ABS only monitors the wheels during braking) and shorts out, causing me to lose my accessory power. Then, due to power loss, the ABS restarts (reboots?) and because power is cut to the sensor, everything seems normal again.

Either way, I'm going to have my alternator tested and hopefully a code pulled tonight, but I'd like to be able to come back tomorrow and brag that I figured it out before testing

[93EXaesthetic]

hahah..title is just funny....