temp needle

[pretty_ricky302]

for some reason my temp needle is not goin past the cold line, well it very close, i dont think this is right. could this be true, my car is not ova heating or nuffin, rad. fluid is as green as can be,

could this mean something, im not sure whats up

[wrichards2005]

Most likely the coolant temperature sensor, but it could be a stuck open thermostat too (if its failsafe).

[ChroNicBoosT]

yeah your probly just lucky and coolant temp sensor broke open and didnt jam closed instead lol...

[pretty_ricky302]

bump today i noticed a plug near my front bumper not plug in it was hanging near the gound it has one wire on it could this be the sensor wire, its on the driverside near the horn, but i no the horn has two wires so its not that


o ya i have no codes, and thermostat has not been changed since i had the car thats like 1yr 1/2

[pretty_ricky302]

bump someone help plz

[xfactortype1]

did you even read what i wrote? whats the problem now..the extra wire i thought was for optional for lights..not sure though. if it doesnt affect how the car runs then dont worry about it/

[DhN]

its your thermostat...i ahd same problem..and wtf my car didnt overheat..does your needle stay at c...raise up abit..then go back down to c?

if so its your thermostat..ionno wtf the other dude is talkin bout

[DhN]

cuz its the SAME shit that happened to me..exact symptoms..and my thermostat was stuck open...replaced thermostat and guess what?....my temp guage worke correctly..dont act like a fucking smart ass

[xfactortype1]

i am a smartass by nature

anywho simple solution pretty..just start your car and let it run.

if the radiator hoses get hot and fans kick on, and your guage still reads cold. than its the guage.

if the fans never come on say within 20 minutes of idle, is a fair time, then you thermostat might be stuck open thereby overcooling your engine.

if you replace your thermostat..please get yourself a honda oem one. people who buy a stant or other cheap one have problems even if its the correc temperature.

i just hope you figure it out.

reguards tomd aka the fucking smartass..

[pretty_ricky302]

ok guys im goin to replace the thermostat which can be a cheap way to help see what the problem is. then ill go from there

[xfactortype1]

okay ..let us know if it works..
reguards tomd

[F22-GURU]

where are you guys getting that from..

Man haven't you just left yourself open for an ass kicking.
Well I've read a few of your replies in other posts and I'd like to know where you get your info from mate, because you haven't got a Clue. I reckon you should get you own facts straight before big noting yourself and bagging the other blokes.
I've read your post and here's my Professional View on it.

1)- if it was his cooalnt temp sensor..his car wouldnt start, or would idle shitty after warm-up..and you get a d4 flashing light..not to mention a CEL

Well the car will start and would still idle OK after warm up. The ECU sets a Default Signal so the engine can still be drivable and in turn will Set a DTC #6. The engine will not perform to it's optimum level but will still run OK. PrettyRicky said there's NO CEL's.
and WRichard2005 would have meant the Coolant Temp Sender.

Wrong

2)- if it was his thermostat..his car would overheat..and he just said its doesn't

Not unless the Thermostat was stuck shut. Wrichards2005 suggested it may be stuck open, therefore the engine coolant temperature cannot be regulated correctly and will take longer to warm up.

Wrong Again..

and the thermostat is on the front of the engine..where the upper hose connects to the block..it stay shut until the engine reaches operating temperature then opens. so the upper hose should be cooler than the lower longer radiator hose, but warm up as engine gets hot. if your engine is hot and upper hose is cold then most likely your thermostat is stuck shut. switches info from old post below

The Thermostat is situated at the LOWER Radiator Hose Outlet at the rear of the Cylinder Head where you Bleed the System - NOT at the Upper Hose. The Thermostat starts opening before N.O.T and gradually opens until it is Fully Open @ 194*F. The Top Radiator Hose Will Heat up first then the Lower Hose will heat up as the Thermostat Opens and allows coolant flow through the Radiator.

Not doing too good are you

stupid idea but blinking d4 could also be your COOLANT TEMP SENSOR.
the only reason i think it it because it does it once your car is warmed up.
until your car warms up (and the sensor) it runs in open loop mode. so your telling me it only does it then suspects me to think its that. and its the pain in the ass sensor directly under the dizzy. i did a post long ago. ill see if i can find it. in either case good luck with it

I am yet to read anywhere from the OP about Blinking D4 Lights or CEL's. These were your dumb ass suggestions.
BTW, Coolant Temp Sensors DO NOT run in Open or Closed Loop Mode that would be the O2 Sensor.

Damn, 0 for 3 So far.

switch A-- is a radiator fan switch (located on the right end cylinder head from where the longer radiator hose goes into the block behind the dizzy. it mounted to the housing. should kick on radiator which is the drivers side fan, on at about 189-199 degrees).

How about that you almost got one right, except the fan it Cuts in around 212*F

switch B-- is the condenser fan switch ( located on the front of engine block just to right of exhaust header. it is mounted to the housing that encases the thermostat. this should kick on at about 212-232 degrees. this runs the passengers side a/c fan. think of as engines fail safe from overheating also

First Part is right about what the switch is, but incorrect to where it is, it is located on the Upper Radiator Hose Outlet, Not the Thermostat Outlet. Also the fan will come on at any time the A/C Compressor is Switched on, not when the engine coolant reaches a set temperature. It is there for A/C Condenser Cooling purposes, and it is not there as a fail-safe from Overheating.

switch C-- this is the coolant temp sender switch ( like i said it controls the hot /cold gauge inside your dash board. your car will run fine without plugged in, but its cheap and very easy to replace

Yehah! You got one right. Not hard when you read it out of the Haynes WSM

switch D-- this is the coolant temperature sensor. ( this send info to your ecm to help adjust for air fuel ratios in the fuel injection system. which is why i suspect it is this sensor and why you are having alot of trouble starting your car and getting d4 flashing

Actually it is the O2 Sensor that is the Main Input sensor to the ECU for adjusting AFR's, and where in the hell have you got the idea he is having problems starting the car or getting any flashing lights. Like I said before, there is nothing in this thread to suggest that apart from your suggestion.

when you replaced the thermostat..was it oem honda or from cheap autoparts store. i used a cheap one and it caused my fans to not kick on like they were supposed to. the fan running after the car is shut off for 5-10 minutes is normal, and is controlled by module under the dash(which i think is your problem). also check a/c diode cuz this could affect it also. finally make sure you didnt swap sensors for switches, or i think the plugs are different anyway.
well i hope this helped for some and others. i just woke up.. time for coffee

What Drugs are you on dude. He never even said he replaced his thermostat, there is no mention of Fan's staying on and WTF has A/C Diodes got to do with Engine Temperatures.

you guys gotta read up on how the cooling system works...
i guess some people just like to put their two sense in just for the sake of being postwhores ..

I think I know who needs a major brush up on How a Cooling System Works and I also got a feeling who's being a Post Whore. All His Quotes are in Red.
So now I'm hanging out to see what gibberish you come up with in response to this.

BTW: To the OP - Go with Wrichards2005 first suggestion.

[wrichards2005]

1)- if it was his cooalnt temp sensor..his car wouldnt start, or would idle shitty after warm-up..and you get a d4 flashing light..not to mention a CEL

the guys coolant temp guage is shot...go to your local autoparts store and get the 10 dollar sensor..and unscrew your old one and screw in the new one..just use some teflon tape around threads..

stupid idea but blinking d4 could also be your COOLANT TEMP SENSOR.

Dude you wasted 15 minutes of your life saying absolutely nothing at all.

Its going to be that sensor more than likely. Make sure you change it because it will keep your fans from turning on if you leave it connected. But as Guru said, its not going to be a stuck open thermostat, because that will just make your car take a lot longer to heat up.

But ricky, as far as that goes, its recommended that you change the thermostat and coolant temperature sensor at the same time.

[DjSpeedy]

A thermostat can go bad without the car overheating. Mine was bad and I had no idea until I cracked my thermo housing. It was stuck in such a way that the coolant wasnt being routed to the intake manifold. I replaced it and it makes a huge difference in the way the car performs and everything. Change the thermostat and see what happenes, it'll take maybe 20 minutes if you dont know what you are doing.

[xfactortype1]

the flamage..i deserved it..a bit

let me 1st start by saying when im wrong i can admit it.
1st..i was wrong about the location of the thermostat..guru was right..
on chapter 3 page 3 paragraph 7. so i was wrong sorry
2nd)- to wrichards and djspeedy, and other i wasnt sure what you meant..so i apologize.very reasonable suggestions

now to guru again..everything i typed was a culmination from old post about cooling issues. especially the switches.

Well the car will start and would still idle OK after warm up. The ECU sets a Default Signal so the engine can still be drivable and in turn will Set a DTC #6. The engine will not perform to it's optimum level but will still run OK. PrettyRicky said there's NO CEL's.

switch D-- this is the coolant temperature sensor. ( this send info to your ecm to help adjust for air fuel ratios in the fuel injection system. which is why i suspect it is this sensor and why you are having alot of trouble starting your car and getting d4 flashing

according to the above i never said it was the main input sensor? i said it helps


Actually it is the O2 Sensor that is the Main Input sensor to the ECU for adjusting AFR's, and where in the hell have you got the idea he is having problems starting the car or getting any flashing lights. Like I said before, there is nothing in this thread to suggest that apart from your suggestion.


if the car would compensate for the switch being bad..then try and unplug it and then start the car. when you try you get a d4 light, youll know what im talking about. i had this same problem with the temp guage and accidently unplug the coolant sensor, and the car stalled and i couldnt restart it until i pluged it back in. try unpluging the oxygen sensor. youll get a cel and car may sputter a bit and run like crap. itll run in limp mode. trouble shooting the oxygen sensor also calls for unplugging it while running the engine. try that as i mentioned with the ects. bet you itll stall.

i read the part about the oxygen sensor in chapter 6 page 5 about the oxygen
sensor..which doesnt say anywhere about it being the utmost importance in adjusting the afr. fact is a number of sensor play an important role..ie MAP, ECTS, TPS, and others. also on same page chapter 6 page 5 section 4 paragraph 4 it says any problem in oxygen circuit..will result in cel 1 or 41, and defualt value is used. TPS says a default value is used also. i couldnt find anything on default values for MAP or ECTS.

so to me the oxygen sensor does alter the air fuel ratio, but seems to be more for emissions purpose. it is important for idle quality, but engione can run without it in limp mode.

so if your car doesnt do that..then i guess i wont be giving anymore advice since i according to you know nothing.


Originally Posted by xfactortype1
switch A-- is a radiator fan switch (located on the right end cylinder head from where the longer radiator hose goes into the block behind the dizzy. it mounted to the housing. should kick on radiator which is the drivers side fan, on at about 189-199 degrees).


How about that you almost got one right, except the fan it Cuts in around 212*F

according to haynes which i got this from chapter 3 pages 3,4 section 4
switch a according to illustration 4.2a is radiator fan switch A(page 3-3)
now on next page it says the radiator fan should show continuity between 189-199)

switch b is the condensor fan (same page mind you) should show continuity from 217-232..which is close to what you said. so how was i wrong


am yet to read anywhere from the OP about Blinking D4 Lights or CEL's. These were your dumb ass suggestions.
BTW, Coolant Temp Sensors DO NOT run in Open or Closed Loop Mode that would be the O2 Sensor.

Damn, 0 for 3 So far.
]
What Drugs are you on dude. He never even said he replaced his thermostat, there is no mention of Fan's staying on and WTF has A/C Diodes got to do with Engine Temperatures. <-------- again info from old post from another problem

but a/c diode can have a possible remote affect on engine temps. it can cause or prevent the condensor fan from kicking(probably more with when a/c is on)
on. i honestly dont know the wiring of the condensor circuit..so i couldnt and wouldnt know as to how. but if to me if condensor fan doesnt come on than it may cause in adequate cooling(i.e only half the radiator, not to mention a/c wont work.) from the bad diode. i know that a possibility is remote, but people sometimes do have nightmare diagnostic problem..like shorts


BTW if your going to tell me that the condensor fan has nothing to do with the cooling of the engine in relation to coolant temp..then why switch b?

again the information on the switches was from an old post which i stated in the begining. so i never said it was his problem. however my fault is not being clear. i was trying to provide the info for swtich c, which is what i said was his problem initially. i was just trying to clear up wrichards2005 was saying. again i apologize for being a dick.


think I know who needs a major brush up on How a Cooling System Works and I also got a feeling who's being a Post Whore. All His Quotes are in Red.
So now I'm hanging out to see what gibberish you come up with in response to this.



okay i admitted i was wrong about the location of thermostat, but imma post whore cuz you quoting me turns out red? how does that work?

anywho im out..i dont think im totaly to blame guru, but that in your eyes i guess. so if you wanna flame me ok, i guess i deserved it, but i wont just take it lying down from someone who thinks they got all their basses covered. so we are all human and make mistakes. so to those who now think im full of shyt then just ignore my replies.

laterz tomd