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    idle bogging down

    hey everyone, not sure if this in the right spot, but i couldnt decide where to put it

    ok, today driving home my check engine light came on, then D4 started blinking continuously. Every time i would come to a complete stop the idle would bog down very low, and when i applied gas it would come close to stalling out but never did. This happened a couple days ago too. i was in a 7 11 so i just turned it off, turned it back on, still was doing it so i revved hard a couple times, turned off, on again then no problem. everything was fine.

    now i just got it home, drove hard on the interstate and when i pulled off the exit the light and D4 were still going but i could tell it wasnt bogging down as much at a complete stop. got home, turned it off, then on again and no problem

    could be a sensor, but im not sure. maybe the TPS was what my friend said today at work (throttle positioning sensor?)

    HOWEVER, i also have been having problems with my positive clamp on my battery coming off. its tight as it gets but sometimes it will just slide up and off. I usually find out it did it when i go to start the car and nothing. so i just walk around pop the hood and push it back on. i need a new clamp. could this somehow affect a sensor?

    one last thing i think it might be. I got a new neon tube for my front kit. i installed it Saturday, but due to lack of time i just wired the rocker switch directly to my power and ground on my amp (i know i know) I forgot about it and have been meaning to run its own power and ground. Now, i talked to a guy about it and he said he didnt recommend doing it that way cuz he did it in his 5th gen (same thing, wired it to his amp) and he said it made his sensors and gauges do some crazy stuff. I just remembered that today so im wondering if this could also be a side effect?

    one last thing. in neutral the idle is right where it should be. only when i put it into a Drive position.

    thanks in advance guys

    CB7tuner.com Appearance Specialist - PM me with any bodywork questions

    #2
    ok well its not the neon power wire

    im thinking either TPS or maybe i should look into upgrading my ECU (which i need to do anyways because with all my mods im running real rich)

    im thinking of picking up that new Hondata S200 system. anybody got any ideas on this problem?
    also, anyone know of anyplaces that sell the 4th gen TPS? im striking out over here looking for it....

    CB7tuner.com Appearance Specialist - PM me with any bodywork questions

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      #3
      this morning i pulled off my short ram so i could change my thermostat and lo and behold theres a hole in my intake. i have no idea where this came from, could this be affecting my idle at all?

      CB7tuner.com Appearance Specialist - PM me with any bodywork questions

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        #4
        ok well i welded up the hole in my intake

        a mechanic buddy of mine told me he thought my problem was stemming from a leaky vacuum , which made sense since the hole in the intake was on the opposite side of where the vacuum tube goes in.

        so today i start her up and she has trouble at first then fires up. check engine light comes on, followed by that damn D4 blinking. for the first 10 minutes everything ran fine, even in drive there was no bogging down. then eventually in drive it would bog down and eventually even in neutral it would as well.

        could it be that TPS? i think thats where im gonna try next. Also, how do you reset your ECU? i just disconnected for about 30 minutes today, but im not sure of the actual time to have the battery disconnected in order for it to reset. Or could it be an ignition or fuel injection problem? any help would be greatly appreciated.....

        CB7tuner.com Appearance Specialist - PM me with any bodywork questions

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          #5
          check your codes...look in faq that will tell you for sure!

          battert terminal, get a new one...the old ones dont last forever...


          report back
          What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

          You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

          Retro!

          Hater

          I love nooBs...They make me look good

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            #6
            i wish i could help you, but this is far too advanced for me. bump for a good man with a bad problem. i think you just have to unhook the battery for about 5 minutes and hten press the break about 5 times to get electrons or something out of the system. i dont know the truth vvalidity of this, but hey, it probably cant hurt anything.
            2010 Taurus SHO - Livernois Goodies
            2002 BMW 330 CI Convertible - HUNK OF JUNK

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              #7
              ok got me a new battery terminal (with custom red felt washer ) and got it hooked up. no more slippage

              just went out and checked the code. it blinked back a code 06 (i counted like 5 times) which is an ECT (Engine Coolant Temp circuit
              Reading too low or too high, open or short in circuit, defective ECT circuit) <---- which is odd to me, cuz would that seriously make my RPMs drop? the reason i am frustrated is because the thing i thought it was first , the TPS is code 07 !


              and im sure alot of you are asking why i just havent changed the TPS by now if i think it is that so bad, well thing is i cant find one around here for some reason and also it is expensive and i am poor. i want to find what it is then i will sacrifice for only one part hopefully.

              anyways, any help on this ECT would be greatly appreciated. What a day to not be able to find my damn Chiltons or Haynes....

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                #8
                ok

                today

                well it is gettin harder to start now, due to the fact that the RPM's just dont wanna get up there. When it does fire up, itll run normal, but in any drive gear (reverse, D4 etc.) it will bog down still. i reset the ECU today and its still reading the same thing. i checked at advance today and they have the ECT sensor for like $40 ? i think and they cant even order the TPS, i cant find that anywhere. Im hopin to replace the ECT and reset the ECU again this weekend and see what that does, hopefully it will fix this problem.

                another thing - today i noticed that my autometer a/f gauge was pegged at rich, which is weird cuz its usually just a light show (a/f gauge hooked to stock O2 sensor, ya know) but now its just reading rich. and then i noticed that i now have water ? or something dripping from my exhaust. i touched it and smelled it, it had no smell (like coolant) and it looked clearish, but of course, liquid flowing through your exhaust will be darker from the exhaust, so kinda hard to tell. SOMEONE GIVE ME SOME THEORIES!!!!! i have a headache so im going to take a nap.

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                  #9
                  well i have a theory on the water

                  i think my engine is running too hot. condesation in the pipes, hot engine, blowin water. somethin like that. im sure it has to do with the fact that that ect sensor is reading wrong or not at all

                  could it be that the ecu is runnin the engine at a lower rpm to compensate for the fact that the messed up ECT sensor is runnin my car hot? or some variation of that? bah.

                  anyways, new camber kit and front tires this weekend. i would like to get it all fixed then, so any immediate help would be appreciated.

                  CB7tuner.com Appearance Specialist - PM me with any bodywork questions

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                    #10
                    FIXED IT!!!!


                    ok, this is in case someone else has the same problem

                    i replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor (right behind and to the left of the upper radiator hose going to the engine)

                    after wards it was still doing it, and the code still blinked the same. i reset the ECU blah blah, still the same

                    BUT - I FOUND OUT - you gotta clear the memory! once the ecu shoots a code it is retained in the memory and will be there until you clear it. the way to do that is to go to the fuse box inside the engine bay and the top left fuse (standing from the right side fender) is a backup fuse usually should be a 7.5A or something like that (mine was a 15) remove that and you will be set. BEWARE THOUGH, if you have radio presets its a good chance youll lose them. Most aftermarket radios shouldnt be affected though, at least mine wasnt. Problem fixed, everythings cool!

                    CB7tuner.com Appearance Specialist - PM me with any bodywork questions

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