control arms

[pretty_ricky302]

how hard is it to replace my front control arms? any diy thread

[starchland]

Get a Haynes manual. its not that hard at all, Really, its only 3 bolts. and your gonna need a balljoint puller.

[91whitecb7]

i didnt use a balljoint puller.. i just gave it a few good whacks with a hammer.. but make sure you dont damage the thread on the bolt.. its really not that hard..

[According2Aaron]

i didnt use a balljoint puller.. i just gave it a few good whacks with a hammer.. but make sure you dont damage the thread on the bolt.. its really not that hard..

x2 PB Blaster doesn't hurt, either. If you've got short springs like my car, it'll be easier (for me, at least) to take the control arm ends off of the joints there than the drop the joints from the engine bay. That's because if you're changing out the passenger's side, you'll have to undo the fuse box.

So basically, research the DIY threads FIRST, before starting a thread about something that's been covered oh-so-many times. Then get some PB Blaster or WD-40, and get a good size hammer, like a three or four pound hammer. And make sure not to damage the threads.

[accordztech]

dont damage the threads by hitting it with a hammer on the bottom...its tempting though.

this is what i did.

jack the car up, take the tires off.

then locate the balljoint on the upper control arm.

there is a 10mm bolt holding a cover, remove that bolt to expose the castle nut (weird nut that looks like a crown).

now take a pair of needle nose pliers and straighten the pin holding it (if its there) and then pull that pin out.

now use a 17mm socket to take out the nut.

i use a balljoint seperater inbetwwen the joint and the arm to get that thing free...takes a bit of work especially if it hasnt been done for a while. spraying it wiht some bolt breaker helps...

after that is done you should be happy.

now go into the engine bay and there are these 2 big i think 15mm darker bolts near the strut mount bolts, on the passenger side its easy to see and can be reached with a extention, but on the drivers side its a bit differnt. one bolt you can see, but the other is under the fuse box so you have to remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the fuse box and wedge a socket under there to get the bolt.

once you got that the control arm should come right off...

...since i did it a few times it took me 30 minutes...but i think the first time it took me an hour especially cause of that ball joint.

now when you put it back make sure you slightly tighten the castle nut and then put the pin through it and bend that pin...thats so it wont rotate and fall out =) enjoy.

[According2Aaron]

You're making it too easy for the lazy. lol. We're trying to train him to search for himself.

[HondaFan81]

how hard is it to replace my front control arms? any diy thread

It is very easy.

Front car on stands, remove wheels. Remove cotter pins on upper joint nut, 17mm socket to remove nut. Get your largest hammer, get some good solid hits on the top of the knuckle, where the bore of the upper joint is. It will take 5-8 hits or so, but the joint will pop out. Open hood, remove 2 nuts that hold the upper arm in, put the new arm in and snug the 2 nuts you just removed. Push the lower joint down into the bore of the knuckle enough to get a few threads, snug it up and put cotter pin in.

Anytime you replace any joints in the suspension, it is suggest to get an alignment done. This is why I just replace all the joints at once that need replacing, then get one alignment done.

Torque specs, if you care:

2 upper arm nuts (in engine bay) - 47 lbft

upper joint castle nut - 32 lbft

[pretty_ricky302]

thanks im goin to do this, this weekend, i was told my balljoints r dangerous wear b/c of my drop and the age of them so i dont want my wheel to fall off

[SoapyToast]

It is very easy.

Front car on stands, remove wheels. Remove cotter pins on upper joint nut, 17mm socket to remove nut. Get your largest hammer, get some good solid hits on the top of the knuckle, where the bore of the upper joint is. It will take 5-8 hits or so, but the joint will pop out. Open hood, remove 2 nuts that hold the upper arm in, put the new arm in and snug the 2 nuts you just removed. Push the lower joint down into the bore of the knuckle enough to get a few threads, snug it up and put cotter pin in.

Anytime you replace any joints in the suspension, it is suggest to get an alignment done. This is why I just replace all the joints at once that need replacing, then get one alignment done.

Torque specs, if you care:

2 upper arm nuts (in engine bay) - 47 lbft

upper joint castle nut - 32 lbft

A arms (upper control arms) shouldn't affect your alignment.

[starchland]

unless you have camber kit...