Is this is quickest way to install a clutch?

[hemlockz]

basically this is from the manual step by step but I would like to know any tricks to get this done:

TRANSAXLE REMOVAL - the haynes manual method:

disconnect battery
remove intake hose
remove starter
disconnect ground, reverse light, and wiring harness clamp
shift into R
disconnect shift and select cables stay
remove power steering speed sensor
remove wheel and splash guard
drain transaxle
remove clutch fluid pressure line, junction, slave cylinder and pushrod
remove center beam and a-pipe
disconnect lower control arm
disconnect damper fork from lca
pry left driveaxle out of middle shaft
disconnect bearing support and remove middle shaft
pry right driveaxle out of differential
remove damper for pinch bolt and remove shock absorber
remove radius rod
remove clutch access cover
remove rear engine mount bracket bolts
remove 5 transaxle retaining bolts
remove transaxle mount
remove 3 transaxle housing retaining bolts.



a friend who has done this on civics said i shouldn't bother with the ball joint and just unbolt the a-arm and everything will swing out of the way. what is he talking about? the upper arm? I've never changed a clutch before and will be attempting it on Friday

[F22-GURU]

By the sounds of it you are best to stick by what the manual states.

[hemlockz]

By the sounds of it you are best to stick by what the manual states.

uh ...thanks?

[accord91lx]

there are a few threads about this subject, do a search and you may see a few short cuts you can take safely.

[91accord4door]

just take your time, do exactly what the manual says....and dont rush. catagorize all the bolts and shit, and always use jack stands.

[KoNEY]

Don't remove the power steering speed sensor (VSS), simply unplug it. Removing it you will probably lose the drive pin inside like I did. Just some advice...

[xaxis360]

i HIGHLY recommend you buy a factory service manual from helm.com, eBay or the dealership. There are some sites on the net that have the entire factory manuals to download for free. seach "service manual" on here and print the entire section for removing the trans. and installing the clutch. I attempted my first clutch job with a haynes and ended up deeply regretting it. the factory manual has good illustrations and is very in-depth when it comes to removing the transmission and the clutch. it also tells you things that should be replaced once they are removed like the VSS seal and some random locknuts. there is no need to mess with fluids because you keep everything with fluid attached such as the speed sensor and the clutch system. one thing: if the clutch was still working good when you go to remove the trans., it will be difficult to get out. You have to work with it to get it away from the engine and it will eventually slide out. it is very heavy and will crush you or fall if you're not careful. I would have two people work it down or be sure and use a trans. jack. If you're from the salt belt, PB blaster and metrinch will be your friends big time on this project. if any suspension components, driveshafts or your rear mount is bad, this is a perfect time to replace them because everything is there and easy to get to with the trans out. replace seals and bolts if the SM says replace.

[KoNEY]

Actually, trans isn't that heavy, I put mine in my car with my hands, it was cake...however, be sure to drain the tranny oil before removing the axles, or oil will go eveywhere...then refill one the tranny/axles are back in...

[xaxis360]

doesn't a manual weigh about 105 lbs?? not heavy when you have a lift and standing on your feet. heavy when you're on the ground, crunched and laying on your back IMO.

[KoNEY]

doesn't a manual weigh about 105 lbs?? not heavy when you have a lift and standing on your feet. heavy when you're on the ground, crunched and laying on your back IMO.

I was laying on my back, under the car...wasn't too bad, maybe I'm just strong...

[hemlockz]

i HIGHLY recommend you buy a factory service manual from helm.com, eBay or the dealership. There are some sites on the net that have the entire factory manuals to download for free. seach "service manual" on here and print the entire section for removing the trans. and installing the clutch. I attempted my first clutch job with a haynes and ended up deeply regretting it. the factory manual has good illustrations and is very in-depth when it comes to removing the transmission and the clutch. it also tells you things that should be replaced once they are removed like the VSS seal and some random locknuts. there is no need to mess with fluids because you keep everything with fluid attached such as the speed sensor and the clutch system. one thing: if the clutch was still working good when you go to remove the trans., it will be difficult to get out. You have to work with it to get it away from the engine and it will eventually slide out. it is very heavy and will crush you or fall if you're not careful. I would have two people work it down or be sure and use a trans. jack. If you're from the salt belt, PB blaster and metrinch will be your friends big time on this project. if any suspension components, driveshafts or your rear mount is bad, this is a perfect time to replace them because everything is there and easy to get to with the trans out. replace seals and bolts if the SM says replace.

Great, I'm grabbing the CC7 service manual from icelord.net right now and printing it off (at least the clutch section) before I go home. I'm taking tomorrow off to do this, and if it doesn't go well I have the rest of the weekend to clean up the mess.

So I don't have to actually disconnect any clutch fluid pressue line or slave cylinder? I assume this means pull the tranny all the way out from under the car, just swing it out to have room to work on the clutch but still have fluid lines attached?

One other thing... I see you mention the details like replace the VSS seal, but then later you said there is no need to remove the VSS, just unplug?

THanks this is the kind of advice I am looking for! I love saving time and taking shortcuts. (don't read this the wrong way, quality is still top priority, but pointless work is just foolish... yeah )

[KoNEY]

Yeah, simply leave the VSS on the tranny, just unplug it. You will have to disconnect the p/s hoses going to the VSS, unhook them from the rack&pinion side, not the VSS side, it's easier. Remember to drain the tranny oil and remove the slave cylinder while leaving the line still on it. Do not press the clutch pedal while the slave cylinder is off the tranny. Also, don't forget to adjust the master cylinder under the dash once you're finished...good luck man.

[NAiL05]

Its better to take your time the first time rather than having to take out the whole transmission to change the clutch again from taking shortcuts your not sure of.

[wed3k]

Its better to take your time the first time rather than having to take out the whole transmission to change the clutch again from taking shortcuts your not sure of.

exactly, id highly suggest the manual but the online UK manual was best because of the amount of photos.

i used an ATV/motorcycle jack, it was only 50 bucks and could go up about 14.5inches.

the whole axle removal really depends but when i unattached the UCA, the cv joint popped out of the other joints???
or something, so i bascially had to guess and wiggle it back in.

[F22-GURU]

I found it a hell of a lot easier with the tranny hanging off an Engine Crane. With the Tranny attached to a chain & 'D' Shackles it's easier to manoeuvre around and lower it to the ground and lift it back in. Just get a friend to operate the crane.
One of the most important things to do is either Machine the Flywheel or replace it with a lighter one. When installing the Clutch & Pressure Plate make sure the Clutch Plate is installed the correct way round and centred correctly.