What BRAKE PADS did you PAIR w/ BREMBO BLANKS?! and how was it?

[FishyMan]

Hey mods, I know this may be better suited for the brake performance section, but I had hope to get a quicker response here because I need to order some parts for my car. You guys can relocate it if you feel it is necessary, but please let this be here for a while.

I've done searching and browsed around already.

Anyhow, I will be running some BREMBO blanks up front and wanted to know what grade x brand of pads you guys had. Did it squeek? I don't think I can change the rotors because I've bought the blanks already.

I've just installed some PBR/AXISS metal masters on my other car on CENTRIC premium rotors and they still squeek a tad, but I don't know if it's the rear or the front

*Also, can someone tell me exactly the main differences between pads? What's the ceramic ones about on the higher ended pads?

Any ideas appreciated. I am thinking about the CERAMIC pbr ones, but I don't know if it'll squeek mad or cut the brembos up.

[Mista Juice]

honda oem ftw.

[xtr91accord]

oem ceramics

[FishyMan]

OEM has diff't grades? Do you guys know what the manufacture/brand was for OEM?

Thanks.

[93accordexcoupe]

brembo sport pads

[F22-GURU]

Anyhow, I will be running some BREMBO blanks up front and wanted to know what grade x brand of pads you guys had. Did it squeek? I don't think I can change the rotors because I've bought the blanks already.
I've just installed some PBR/AXISS metal masters on my other car on CENTRIC premium rotors and they still squeek a tad, but I don't know if it's the rear or the front.

OK now enlighten me on this one. I assumed the term "Blanks" is an American Terminology for "Rotor" or am I on the wrong track.
It's just that the Highlighted Quote confuses me.

It's not usually the Brake Pad Material that causes a squeak or squeal. It's normally caused by the Rotor Surface being warped or having high spots.
If the Rotor Surface's are warped, when the Rotor rotates it pushes the Pads in & Out very fast, rubbing inside the Caliper Housing. The speed of the Pads moving in & out can cause a high pitch vibration. If the Caliper Slide Pins are worn they can contribute to the problem. If the Pad & Rotor Surface's are glazed up they too could cause a squeal.

Get the Rotors machined On Car and resurface the brake pads as well.
Do Not machine the rotors if they are at or below the Minimum Thickness Spec.
Do Not Machine Slotted or Drilled Rotors.

Re-glue the brake pads into the caliper using an adhesive like "Disc Brake Quiet" or "Contact Cement". Make Sure you refit any shims that were in there. They are there to absorb these vibrations.
You can also try Slotting the Brake Pads as well. (Only if the pads are fairly new)
You can do this by cutting a Slot down the centre of the pad to about 80% Depth using a 'Thin Disc' Angle Grinder. Then Resurface the Brake Pad using a sheet of Emery Paper on a smooth flat surface in a Figure 8 pattern.

As far as the Type of Pads, see if you can get hold of some BENDIX Ceramic Technology Brake Pads or Some EBC Kevlar Pads.

[FishyMan]

Thanks. Yes blanks is just another 'jargon' ? for blank rotors or regular ones, that is compared to slotted rotors, and cross-drilled, etc.

I had new pads, new rotors put onto the car and I am pretty sure I did everything well and correct.

I greased the sliders and they don't lock up. I even bought and used NEW OEM shims and new hardware kit. BTW where exactly are you supposed to lube? I used the small packets of brake grease and applied some to the shims and what not. I applied behind the brake pad, and the shims. I also added some left overs around the pad retainers?

Maybe I lubed wrong? or I didn't use the right type of brake grease? Please enlighten me.

I may have made a mistake, but the brakes feel fine, I bed them in and I don't really feel that uneveness I use to feel when I coast slowly on the brakes prior to a complete stop.

Thanks again, any insight very very much appreciated.

[F22-GURU]

Thanks. Yes blanks is just another 'jargon' ? for blank rotors or regular ones, that is compared to slotted rotors, and cross-drilled, etc.

I had new pads, new rotors put onto the car and I am pretty sure I did everything well and correct.

I greased the sliders and they don't lock up. I even bought and used NEW OEM shims and new hardware kit. BTW where exactly are you supposed to lube? I used the small packets of brake grease and applied some to the shims and what not. I applied behind the brake pad, and the shims. I also added some left overs around the pad retainers?

Maybe I lubed wrong? or I didn't use the right type of brake grease? Please enlighten me.

I may have made a mistake, but the brakes feel fine, I bed them in and I don't really feel that uneveness I use to feel when I coast slowly on the brakes prior to a complete stop.

Thanks again, any insight very very much appreciated.

OK, that clears that up.

I would highly recommend lubing the Caliper Slides, but lubricating the shims or the pads I would not recommend. It's Best off Gluing the Shims and Pads in with an Anti-Vibration Adhesive.
Get some "CRC Disc Brake Quiet" from Auto-barn. It comes in a small plastic bottle with a split spout. It comes out like a thick liquid and spreads extremely easy. It starts to cure after a couple of minutes. When it cures fully it is like a rubbery adhesive cushion, a bit like silicone, which absorbs any vibration resonance.
You can get it in Orange or Blue Bottles. It is the only brake adhesive I'd recommend.

When you say you bed the brakes in, What method did you use? As this can be critical to the future performance of the brake pads, especially Metal Pads. (Note: Bendix Ceramic Technology Brake Pads do not require bedding in.)
Hope this helps.

[FishyMan]

Thanks. I will take the pads, shims out and clean it good.

It's odd because the packet said to use it on the shims and stuff, but I will give it a shot. Basically the only thing that needs greasing are the slider pins?

With the adhesive, I apply behind the BOTH the brake pads, and behind BOTH shims ?

By bedding in, I did a series of accell/decell. I accell to about 30mph ish or so and braked. I did what was possible given the situation of the traffic as I live in the city/suburb area. Sometimes I had to do a complete stop and other times I cooled the brakes b4 repeating and what not. I followed the bedding in procedures that came with the brake pads. I did it up to the part where the brakes smelt a bit. I've been driving for about 2 weeks now, and the only thing that bothers me is that squeeky sound. It happens once in a while, kind of a mind of its own.

Thank you for your help.

[SteveB]

KVR Carbon, no squeek.

[F22-GURU]

With the adhesive, I apply behind the BOTH the brake pads, and behind BOTH shims ?
Thank you for your help.

Yes, but best off putting it on both sides of the inner & outer shims only.

The brakes should be bed in OK then.
I'd say rear brakes are making the noise.

[FishyMan]

Will any ceramic pad be suitable? or does brand really matter?

I'd just want a few more opinions. So ceramic does not give off sounds as compared to the metal mixed ones? Ceramics seem to outweight the metal masters, but it seems like from charts on pbr/axiss the ceramics eat up the rotors.

Thanks again.

[F22-GURU]

Will any ceramic pad be suitable? or does brand really matter?

I'd just want a few more opinions. So ceramic does not give off sounds as compared to the metal mixed ones? Ceramics seem to outweight the metal masters, but it seems like from charts on pbr/axiss the ceramics eat up the rotors.

Thanks again.

Sorry to be Hogging your thread FishyMan, they don't necessarily have to be Ceramic Pads, from experience I mainly use BENDIX Advance (Quiet, Low Dust and High Quality) or EBC Green Stuff Kevlar Pads.
Go for a Well Respected High Quality Brand. Stay away from the Cheapies.
When it comes to Brakes price should never come into the equation.
How much is a life worth?

[FishyMan]

Sorry to be Hogging your thread FishyMan, they don't necessarily have to be Ceramic Pads, from experience I mainly use BENDIX Advance (Quiet, Low Dust and High Quality) or EBC Green Stuff Kevlar Pads.
Go for a Well Respected High Quality Brand. Stay away from the Cheapies.
When it comes to Brakes price should never come into the equation.
How much is a life worth?

Thanks. I just can't seem to get access to other brands as cheap and as readily as I can for PBR/AXISS. I am thinking about the CERAMICs one from PBR/AXISS ultimates. I think that brand is pretty common and well respected - proally cuz I see them onsale everywhere online. :P

I really appreaciate the helpful insights. I've learned a lot here through out my time and I've applied it to other cars and etc. etc.

I will be attempting to install the brembo rotors and use PBR/AXISS ultimates. Now I have to research and save money into buying tools and learn how to take off the rotors on our cars..

I still haven't gotten to fixing the squeeky wierd feeling on my other car, but the vendor is working with me on giving me a fresh pair of pads. I will go with your idea about using that adhesive. On a serious note thoug, by now (2-weeks) if the slider pins would have stuck, wouldn't it already have happened?

[timmy0tool]

OEM honda pads or AEM pads (which is made by NISSIN who makes calipers for honda). all my auto-x buddies can attest to this. althought the only downside is that it wears down quickly and it dusts your wheels like no other (but that's how you know they are working; pads are supposed to produce dust meaning dustless pads = crap). my $0.02!