blown engine...

[immeraufdemhund]

you should have used the 3/8" drive 14mm to get off the head bolts. I'd drill them off and i can always put a few of the bolts in the engine. I have all of them.

[jumpman83]

that was what I was using, it twisted the extension I needed, so I went to the 1/2 and went from there.

I found out what the problem was, rod bearing is spun, main bearing is warped.

[jumpman83]

any chance one of you guys would be willing to part out the bottom end? I can't afford the freight shipping charges, and I don't need a new block...

[jumpman83]

Got the head stud out!!!!!!!!! I ground down one of them until I got tired of it, then came out this morning and saw grandpa did some drilling on it, so I went from that point with a hammer and chissle and finally got them both off. It's ready to go in for machining, so right now the price is going to be $350 plus some gaskets, a rocker arm, and the band clamps for the CV boots.

[immeraufdemhund]

http:\\www.gasketpro.com

that is agood place to get some gaskets. they use felpro.

[jumpman83]

dang, I keep reading posts too late, good tip. I'll have to use them next time, I've got everything I need now, just need to let the machine shop do its deal.

[HondaFan81]

What are you having the machine shop do specifically? Just curious... Props to you tackling this project on your own & gramps

[jumpman83]

Thanks! I don't like mechanics touching my car. I don't trust them, plus I've never had a problem doing things myself. I figured since I've had most of the engine bay apart at some time or another, it was time I put it all together and save some money. I'd say it's going very well. Coolest thing is my friend has had damn near zero wrench time, my grandpa has had probably a total of 5% of the time on it, plus the time it took actually lifting the thing out, and I've done everything else, so I'm actually pretty proud of myself . I knew I knew a grip of general tech and a few more advanced things, but I didn't realize I knew enough to remove, and disassemble an engine, and still be mindful of what I'll be doing to get it back together.

The machine shop is going to press the piston onto the new connecting rod they'll be selling me, hone the cylinders, hot tank it, and take .010" off the crankshaft, then provide me with the new bearings, brass freeze plugs, and new piston rings. $348. Not too bad I guess, but more than I can afford, I was out of money before that since I just bought this top end not long ago and paint for it, and for the rebuild I've had to buy new lower ball joints, a rocker arm, CV boot clamps, some other crap I can't remember, a whole list. Gaskets were costly. So I borrowed $305 from mom to get that done, and since the clutch is pretty well done, and the flywheel is COVERED in hotspots, mom was willing to also lend me the $257 to get an XTD stage 1 clutch and 12lb. flywheel. Hopefully that will be all I have to borrow, I have a little change left, but I'll need new fluids, some M.E.K. (methyl ethyl ketone) to clean the oil out of the driveway, and if it doesn't hurt the case, to get the grease off of there, and I'll need some paint. The block, head, and tranny are going to be black, and there will be candyish blue accents you'll see when it's done.

More updates, the port matching and polishing is going well, and surprisingly, isn't hard to do. Anyone with a steady hand, try it out. Matter of fact... I think I'm going to do a D.I.Y. on it. So once all this is done, I'll have a rebuilt F22/H23 hybrid, port matched and polished head (valve seats won't be bigger, I can't afford to replace the valves, but it will be bigger at all other ports (wherever there's a gasket) and in the throttle body, and polished at those points, the throttle body, and around the valves, and the valves will probably be swirl polished too.) NGK iridium plugs, Accel plug wires, a short ram intake, and lightweight flywheel. What do you think that'll be worth? Think I could be at 180 at the crank? (~153 to the ground...) I'm assuming the hybrid will have the same power as the F22b?

heh, sorry for the novel...

[immeraufdemhund]

i got the same clutch set up on my car. The only thing i'm not happy about it is that with the steel flywheel it feels like it throws you back more in the car. I wonder if you loose torque with the aluminum flywheel. But once the clutch got broke in it was fun to drive hard.

That gasketpro place only works good if you are getting complete NON-HYBRID engine IMO. But then again if you get a bottom kit for a accord and a head kit for a prelude you'll probably do better. actually i just checked and the head set for the prelude is 120 and there is no bottom set for the accord on that site. That is kinda a bummer. but 138 for the full gasket set on a f22 i like that!

props on your engine rebuild. I think though you should have invested into a better head gasket and some studs. Oh well. Head gaskets are easy enough to do while on the car.

One thing to take note of on the bottom end is those stupid balance shafts. AND dont forget the lower timing gear for the h23! If you need any pictures on the lower end let me know i'll snap some of the block i have in the back yard.

[jumpman83]

I'll upgrade head gaskets when I boost, OEM will be good for now, and I did get a new OEM headgasket... Er OEM grade (maybe slightly better actually, it looks really really good). I'll have to change clutches when I get to that point anyway. And I already have the h23 timing gear, and new head studs (couldn't afford ARP's, I'll do them too when I boost) and new seals for just about everything, just need the O ring for the oil pump. Thanks for the offer , but I think the pics are unnecessary at this point, I have the disassembly process memorized, I'll be able to follow it backward just fine.

[jumpman83]

Uh... I'm supposed to have a baffle plate? I was looking at an online manual to find out the torque ratings for the connecting rods and that oil distribution thing that goes through the mains (Yep, I'm on re-assembly now! ), and it said there was supposed to be a baffle plate, but I don't have one. Think someone took it out? Anyone else have one? I was actually kind of excited to see there wasn't one, I figured that ment I could actually benifit from a knife edging, but I guess since there's supposed to be a baffle plate, the crank shaft doesn't actually get down to the oil? Tomorrow I hope to have the last of my stuff payed for. Rear main seal, the O rings for the oil pump, and the rocker arm. www.importperformanceparts.net only sells by the full set, so Honda will be cheaper at $36... hopefully the O rings and seal won't be much more. They're not really in bad shape, and I don't want to spend the money, but I figure considering how deep these things are in the engine, it'd be far better to do it now than then.

[jumpman83]

si? no? Baffle plate? bad to not have one?

[immeraufdemhund]

I have never heard of a baffle plate in my time working on a honda. The only thing that i can think of is there is a pan on the c27 that the main bearing bolts hold. But the f22 doesn't have that. I'd have to see the pic of what your talking about.

[jumpman83]

Can't get a pic, don't know of one anywhere, but I can put up a screen shot of that manual. But for now, other pictures for a progress report. The bottom end is all together, and here's another pic of my portmatched intake before the part I couldn't reach got cleaned out. That sludge is out now.

[jumpman83]

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