bad cv joint, dangerous?

[aero]

thanks..

No problem.

It just gets easier and easier each time. There really isnt any need for one specifically for our cars since most of the hondas are all the same. The only thing that is a pain is holding the knuckle assembly and the axle and trying to get the axle to line up and go in, its gotta be perfectly level for it to go in correctly, and dont pound on the knuckle to get it in since you really dont want to jam it into the intermediate shaft or tranny. Axles can usually be done in about 30-40 minutes easy with hand tools and floor jack. Much much quicker with air tools and a lift. I would say 20 minutes average.

[FishyMan]

So if the align is perfect it should go in w/o force?

The reason I ask about the tools is because I don't have much tools and I have to buy them.. I wanted to know more so exactly which size, and drive, etc I will need to buy. I didn't wanna shell out a lot for tool sets when I only need like 1 or 2 of them.

I only have a basic tool set that's why.

Thanks..

[aero]

OOO... umm, do you have an axle nut socket and breaker bar for the axle nut? I think ours are 32mm but im sure the parts people can help you w/that. Have you ever taken the axle nut off? typically you put the breaker bar on the socket, then a nice 5 foot extension, and stand on that and it'll break loose. Of course you gotta pry out the indented part.

Other than that, get some axle grease, put that on the splines of the axle. You might have to hit the axle with a hammer to get it to come out of the knuckle.. but just do it to break it loose, not all the way out since there isnt enough room.

You will probably need a prybar or long screwdriver to pop the axle out from the tranny/intermediate shaft(IS). There are seals on the tranny/IS that you dont want to scratch.

Make sure the new axle "snaps" into the tranny/IS.

When putting the axle back in the knuckle, just get it in enough so the axle nut will catch, then just tighten that up, and it will pull the axle out.

Oh yeah, on passenger side, you take the axle directly out of the transmission. you will prolly leak a little fluid, just check the level after you are done. On the passenger side, there is an intermediate shaft that goes along the back of the engine, and the drivers axle goes into that.

Also make sure you are using jack stands.. no need to trust a jack since they can give out at any time.

Just leave that tutorial up when you go out to work on it, or if you have a laptop.. load that page, and bring it out there, so if you arent sure what to do, it'll help. I used to do that. Poor keyboard and mouse always got greasy.

[FishyMan]

ill read this when i get home from work.. thanks.

ya i really am picking my parts to invest. i have only basic ratchets. i probably need to buy the pry, breaker, axle nut thing and misc stuff. but hey its okay im learning...

thanks dude..

[thatsitbelowradarSTL]

someone on here stated in one other thread (i couldnt find again) that they took their car to a shop, got there axle nut loosened enough so it wasnt a pain (but tight enough to drive home)....this is what im going to do since i had trouble when i first attempted this...i have the socket but no impact wrench...after i replace the axle ill then tighten the axle nut back on with my hand tools, then go back to the shop and get it tightened to the correct specs

also another quick question....ive read just about every cv joint/axle replacement threads on here and only once is it mentioned, by cpmike, that you need drain the tranny fluid....is this true? fizzbob seems to know a lot about this topic and every write up he's done never mentions it

[aero]

Having a shop loosen the nut will work fine. You can tighten it back up yourself if you have a breaker bar.. just tighten it up as much as you feel necessary.

You dont have to drain tranny fluid. But if you havent done it in a while, why not kill 2 birds with one stone.

And its good to invest in good tools, ratchets, sockets etc. Craftsman, snap-on will not break on you and are replaceable under warranty. Cheap ones will break easily, and wont last. Its better to invest in the beginning, and you will have a set that will last you forever.

Things like screwdrivers/prybars/breaker bars, doesnt really matter since they really arent that delicate of tools. I just get whatever, if I break another, i get a new one.