white smoke coming from the engine

[blazen_accord]

I got a little too boost happy and crank it up to 12psi and max out my SAFC for fuel during a race at with stock 2002 WRX new year eve. I have add some royal purple coolent, tranny and engine oil and 105 octane booster before the race. He had me off the line (dame AWD) and I pass him at 60mph and keep a nose ahead until 120mph and he call it quit.. I was about 2-3 feet ahead after 100mph..

After the race everyone headed home (4:00am) and I took it easy driving home, everything seem fine, until I'm one street from my house and I notice the car is shaking alot at below 1500RPM, and almost had no power. I had to give it 50% gas just to make it to my drivewaythen the rpm dip down to 400RPm and the engine die. I start her up and she start but the rpm then went down to 300rpm and die again, I can see cloud of white smoke comming from my hood. I pop the hood and it smoking everywhere

after the wind has clear the smoke, I look around with my flash light, there was oil all over the valve cover and to my suprise it comming from the PCV hole one th e valve cover, I had forgot to put the PCV back on The cloud smeel like fuel and oil, no antifeeze smell. so I check engine oil, it half between the two dot so I add 1 1/2 quart of oil. check coolent level it ok no fuel leak. start the car again and ton of smoke start to come out of the oil cap hole and breather filter. the car would idle at 700rpm for about 6 sec and then the rpm will drop and the engine stall. reset the ecu, but it still did the same thing. I was worry it might be an valve issue since I can hear loud clicking sound coming from the engine. I think it not the headgasket, since there no white smoke coming from the exhaust, and the smoke does not smell like coolent.. the whole race is less then 30sec what could have been damage that could have cause this??

ps. If I step on the gas and keep the engine from dropping beflow 1500rpm, the car still run but loost alot of torgue. anyone think it might be that my valve is not closing all the way and combustion mixture is escaping up to the valve cover?

Happy y2k+4 all

[theone]

dayum man

keep me updated on what it is

hye but u beat the wrx.....lol

that must been nice
but yeah email me once u find out what it is

[blazen_accord]

Originally posted by theone
dayum man

keep me updated on what it is

hye but u beat the wrx.....lol

that must been nice
but yeah email me once u find out what it is

I real happy I did not startng blowing white smoke right after the race, I would have lost all my pride that I just wons.. But that one less honda hater, Many WRX owner think they hang with the mustang and domestic guy and alway look down on the honda and import.. Last time I check WRX is 2.5l 4 turbo banger, not V8 big block...

[theone]

lol....

u kno we all gona have to hit the track come spring/summer
so them how some 4bangers do it

[blazen_accord]

Dayum, I talk to an honda tech at a local dealer and he say from what I have told it, it not an valves issue it my piston ring are shot. air/fuel mixture are escaping pass the piston and coming out from the head that why I see white cloud comming from my brether filter and oil cap hole. he also say I need to do a compression test but most likely 2 or more piston are gone and should be little or 0 compression.

Just preparing for the worst, I want to keep my F22 block and built up to handle 11psi so I'm not looking for a top of the line part for the bottom end. what will I need and how much would they run. I'm thinking maybe 9:5 piston and ring( for more base power) what size will fit the f22a? Better head gasket and rod( what type and length), any else I need??? would honda oem due or I'll need aftermarket part. I'm trying to compare total cost of mildy built up f22 vs an H22a engine+and new turbo header., since the f22a turbo header will not fit the h22a. I will keep my f22a auto tramsnission to keep cost down..

dame I was so tempted to buy another car and ditch the accord, so your input will help me determine if it still worth keeping and staying turbo.

[Fearit22]

It could be your pistons like he said but it is also possible that you blew the turbo. I had something similar happen with my parents car and it turned out that the turbo was what was screwed up. You should also resleeve the block if you are building up the engine. If you already have the turbo and all it would definitely be better just to keep it and build the f22.

[blazen_accord]

bad new the engine is gone. did a compression test today
cyl1=30, cyl2=120, cyl3=150, cyl4=60 giving even through I test when the block is cold, intruction said to let the engine warm up first to normal tempt. even if it 10-15% less when test while the block is cold it still fail the minium 120psi requirement.

dame I have become a boost junkie... and finally blow my motor, only if I stay at 6psi The car still run but if let it idle on it ownit will stall and die, I can still drive it around and it seem just fine if I keep the rpm above 2000.

I found an h22a engine/no tranny for $1000 with my f22a trade in. since I want to keep my turbo I would need a new H22 turbo manifold, anyone know where I can find one for cheap??. IF I go H22A turbo, then I also need Vtech controller, H22A ECU. Since i' m keeping my F22 tranny, that will save a few hundred.
engine $1000, ecu $100, vtech controller $300, h22a turbo header $300-$400, plus extra part for h22a mount, hardness 200-$300. with installing labor from a shop that well over $3700

I have to whore myself to get that much money at this time...
I will stick with the F22a and stay at 6psi until I can afford piston and sleves this summer( piston=$500 sleves=$800). JDM F22A=$600 engine only(150hp) now all I need is to find someone who can remove and install my engine. local shop try to rape me with labor prices, around $900-$1200.

I know there got to be someone close to me that has the tool(I can rent the tool) and has the experience to swap an engine, I'm willing to pay good money, and not be gang bang by those shop. My car still run so it not totally useless, as long as teh rpm above 2000, it run fine, but lack the TQ. I'm willing to drive to your shop or meet up half or where ever


pm or email me at hung.ton@marriott.com

[theone]

damn man, u should have waited and got ur bottom end sleeved, then u could boost 15psi +
thats what im doing for my nitrous so i can run 75-100 shot and probably even more with no problem

[MRX]

iv'e seen 150 shot of nos on a stock f22 b4...anyways i'm sorry to hear about ur loss and i'll try to buy anything off ur f22 setup that u won't need when swapping. just pm me cause most of my turbo setup should be here on saturday and i'm still looking for more parts. I'd also like to join the FSAE club...where do i sign up?

[Fearit22]

Yeah, F series all the way...I was wondering the same thing.

[theone]

hit up accordtunerx, he and others start FSAE

damn Ton, im still upset bout that, damn

make me feel like it was my car....lol......
lets us kno what u plan to do

[blazen_accord]

thanks guys, Boost is even more additing then we**, cra**, co** then I thought. I been fighting the temptation to up the boost from fall to winter, and been (fighting at touching) the boost controller everyday when I pop the hood. but the evil within finally won and I obey it just like drug you get high on boost for 10sec of rush, then a very long a depression withdraw.

oh well it just another speed bump on the road for a true 2nr
I'm sticking with the f22A engine swap for now, save up during winter and will get piston, arp bolt and sleeves this summer to do 12+psi. F22A for life , Turbo F22A accord never die........ Now that keeping it real dawg..

[theone]

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