I was blowing warm and I saw that whiteish fog from the vents about the same time it went warm. Anyway, the shaft was burnt up in the compressor. When I heard that, I figured it would be $1000. Now, this guy JUST does AC and heat at his shop. He is freaking good, too. He's been doing this for like 30 years and he does a lot of dealers' warranty work on AC and heat. Anyway, for the new compressor, 134 coolant, receiver/dryer, and whatever else to do it right is $600. Sounds "reasonable" to me since the part (aftermarket) is probably $250-350. I probably could have saved on the labor, but this guy is solid and will stand behind his work forever. Just thought I'd share that experience.
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A/C compressor crapped out...
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hey. would u mind asking that tech, what and how much i'd have to pay if my compressor was just shot. like if that was the only thing that broke and i wanted to convert to r134a. what is his recommendation to replace everything and etc. my senses tell me i might as well because 1 its old, and 2, it has r12, and 3rd i wanna get it done right, i dotn wanna have another thing messed up cuz i forgot 1 part as i am going to fix it anyhow.
i was thinking if i can bag in on a sale, im gonna try fix my a/c. its unbearable during rainy days, and hot days.hahahahah
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Originally posted by FishyManhey. would u mind asking that tech, what and how much i'd have to pay if my compressor was just shot. like if that was the only thing that broke and i wanted to convert to r134a. what is his recommendation to replace everything and etc. my senses tell me i might as well because 1 its old, and 2, it has r12, and 3rd i wanna get it done right, i dotn wanna have another thing messed up cuz i forgot 1 part as i am going to fix it anyhow.
i was thinking if i can bag in on a sale, im gonna try fix my a/c. its unbearable during rainy days, and hot days.
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ya i understand. i am gonan take it to a shop, but i just wanted to know from the tech your visiting, what his point of view will be such as estimated cost and etc, since he's been in the industry for a long time. so ur getting $600 to fix and replace everything?
i am going to get everything new or re-man new (sometimes i ponder the difference), and i dont think i can do it myself, and what not, but i'd just like to know and have an idea of things.
sorry if im confusing ya, but i guess what i want to say is, i want to get my a/c fixed, and i believe the only feesible and practical way is to get it to r134a. along the way, i may or may not experience technicians suggesting this and that, regarding what i need to replace.
so if u can, would u get a list of what was done to yours as well as cost/price and even specific models?
thanks, it'll really help me to have knowledge when i visit specific a/c shops. i went to those OTHER PLACES, and i got an estimate to be as much as 2k??!!! damn, i really dont know. 2k is retarded..
but so if u could, any info or anything would be really helpful. for under 1k, to get everything into r134a w/ new a/c parts is worth it in my situation.
thanks.hahahahah
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Originally posted by FishyManya i understand. i am gonan take it to a shop, but i just wanted to know from the tech your visiting, what his point of view will be such as estimated cost and etc, since he's been in the industry for a long time. so ur getting $600 to fix and replace everything?
i am going to get everything new or re-man new (sometimes i ponder the difference), and i dont think i can do it myself, and what not, but i'd just like to know and have an idea of things.
sorry if im confusing ya, but i guess what i want to say is, i want to get my a/c fixed, and i believe the only feesible and practical way is to get it to r134a. along the way, i may or may not experience technicians suggesting this and that, regarding what i need to replace.
so if u can, would u get a list of what was done to yours as well as cost/price and even specific models?
thanks, it'll really help me to have knowledge when i visit specific a/c shops. i went to those OTHER PLACES, and i got an estimate to be as much as 2k??!!! damn, i really dont know. 2k is retarded..
but so if u could, any info or anything would be really helpful. for under 1k, to get everything into r134a w/ new a/c parts is worth it in my situation.
thanks.
I feel ya. I will list what was done and his thoughts. I know if you're AC has been "open" ( a leak) for awhile, you have to have it vacuumed for like 8 hours with some special vac. that is supposed to get all the old, contaminated crap out. If it is JUST the compressor, you should be good to go with a new one and the receiver/dryer and possibly the accumulator thingy. I'll talk to Larry though fa sho to see what he has to say. Avoid the dealer on this one for sure.
Yes, $600 is labor, parts, tax, fees, etc. Mine is just the AC compressor-- lines, condensor, evap. core, etc. are all fine.
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You should replace the expansion valve also. R134a is a higher pressure refrigerant than R12 and may strain your expansion valve and cause it to go. Then you will have to do it all over again. While you're at it, replace all the o-rings. There arent that many, and you will be sure none of them have R12 on them. If some do have R12 on them and the oil that went along with it, then get R134a and the new oil on them, they may break down and cause a premature leak in the system.
I just replaced my compressor, expansion valve, o-rings, and reciever/drier myself a couple months ago. I DID however leave all the vacuums and charging to the experts. Total I spent about $375 on parts and labor, but I did most of the labor myself and bought all the parts myself.
Good luck.
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where and what parts brand did you use xtremeskier97? what's ur thoughts bought the compressor, receiver/dryer and all that. u know reman vs. new.
so in my situation what would u recommend? i am pretty sure all my r12 is gone out of the system and the compressor is shot, but if were to do r134, im pretty sure i have to replace much more than my compressor.hahahahah
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man i need to get mines fixed how do u kno if ur compressor is bad? also if u recharge and it comes out does it usually do it via lines? condensor or compressor i kno its complicated but i'm just wondering what could b wrong thanks
My Cb bad, Cb bright and the cops can kiss my Cb lights - I’m gone!
Frost White Member 13
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"Girls are like a new car... lease w/ option to buy"
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wen i recharged it it kicked in no problems air was cold and all but it leaked out the hiss sounded like it was coming from the front so i'm wondering if its the condensor...
My Cb bad, Cb bright and the cops can kiss my Cb lights - I’m gone!
Frost White Member 13
My Ride
"Girls are like a new car... lease w/ option to buy"
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If your system is leaking that fast, then you need to have someone leak test it first to see where it is leaking from. There is no point in trying to replace everything under the sun try to fix the leak.
I bought my compressor, reciever/drier, and expansion valve from here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
Compressor is rebuilt and havent had one problem with it. I replaced all the parts myself. If you buy your compressor from that guy on ebay, he will sell you the reciever/drier and expansion valve for $25/piece and charge no extra shipping. My total for those 3 parts and shipping was $234. I bought an o-ring kit from Autozone specifically for our car (plus it has lots left over) and replaced all my o-rings. It wasnt that hard because I had the whole front of my car off at the time fixing it from an accident.
As far as staying with R12 or replacing the parts and going with R134a...I would convert. Yeah many will say that R134a doesnt cool as well as R12, but it cools just fine. I line in hot and humid Louisiana and it keeps us comfortable. I wish our cars blew harder, but that isnt something I can change. If you already have to replace the compressor, then you will have to replace the reciever/drier, because everytime the system is opened, the drier needs to be replaced. Since you are going to replace those 2 items, you may as well replace the expansion valve too. 1...because it's old...and 2....because it's cheap and easy to replace....and 3....you already have the system open. If you dont replace it and it goes out later...then you will have to replace the drier, expansion valve, and have the system evacuated and charged again. So...since you are replacing all three of those items..and the system is already opened...may as well replace all the o-rings. There really isnt that many. And they are dirt cheap. Cost me $9 at AutoZone for a bag of all the sizes I needed.
Now..the cost difference between R12 and R134a is pretty big. R12 is not made in the US anymore and therefore MUCH more expensive to purchase...and shops will definitely reflect that when you get their invoice.
My advice...go ahead and switch. If you were just a little low on R12 and no major leaks...I would say stick with it and just get it charged. But since you have little to none left in the system...go ahead and convert. If you stick with R12 and have another leak like this...imagine how much you are going to have to pay for that R12 again.
Good luck. I hope I answered all the questions.
Oh..and about new vs. rebuilt....just go rebuilt. Most places warranty them the same anyway. The compressor I got came with a 1 year warranty.Last edited by xtremeskier97; 06-23-2005, 11:47 AM.
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Thank you, very informative.
I guess in my situation, I will need to replace the A/C compressor as well as the REC/DRYER, valves and o-rings. My condenser is okay? I am GOING to convert, as i also think it is the best, just having it done will cost me, but if I am able to, I want to try do this myself, that is, replace the parts and just have the shops do the charge and etc.
I am not sure if I have a leak though, I do recall before having a leak, but I am not sure exactly where. Perhaps I should go to a shop, have them do a charge, detect and go from there?
So here's my plan, what do you guys think:
1) Go to shop and have them pinpoint exactly what is wrong, leaks, what parts shot.
2) Get Parts and Attempt Replacing them.
3) Ask them to charge w/ r134a.
4) No more foggy windows during rainy days
xstremeskier,
did u buy a special manual for the o-ring locations, i have my haynes but i am not sure where to locate the o-rings. also, how long has your system been running? any more tips such as if you open the system u have to replace this and etc.
anyhow thanks very much.hahahahah
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My AC went out last summer and it was blowing the white fog through the vents. I brought it to this mechanic who is a friend of my boss and asked him how much it would be to fix. He asked me how much I could afford to pay and I said 150. He said ok, I will do it for 150. I am like no way and he said he would. Day later I pick up my car and he says I should of charged you more and I said I would scrape up some more money if needed and he said No way! I really owe this guy.
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Originally posted by FishyManThank you, very informative.
I guess in my situation, I will need to replace the A/C compressor as well as the REC/DRYER, valves and o-rings. My condenser is okay? I am GOING to convert, as i also think it is the best, just having it done will cost me, but if I am able to, I want to try do this myself, that is, replace the parts and just have the shops do the charge and etc.
I am not sure if I have a leak though, I do recall before having a leak, but I am not sure exactly where. Perhaps I should go to a shop, have them do a charge, detect and go from there?
So here's my plan, what do you guys think:
1) Go to shop and have them pinpoint exactly what is wrong, leaks, what parts shot.
2) Get Parts and Attempt Replacing them.
3) Ask them to charge w/ r134a.
4) No more foggy windows during rainy days
xstremeskier,
did u buy a special manual for the o-ring locations, i have my haynes but i am not sure where to locate the o-rings. also, how long has your system been running? any more tips such as if you open the system u have to replace this and etc.
anyhow thanks very much.
xtreme is on point. For troubleshooting purposes, get an electric type leak detection method vs. a dye type method. You may be able to fill the system with 134 refrigerant yourself, but a shop will have to flush the system. If the shop is cool, just let them charge it up with 134 though.
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