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i found the source of the noise...now whats it called?

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    i found the source of the noise...now whats it called?

    So i took off the wheel, jacked it up...and turned the rotor with my ear next to it. the part making the noise is that thing behind the rotor. so theres the brake pad, then the rotor, then behind it a long bar that spins when i spin the wheel. then the base part of the long bar(the base part connecting behind the rotor) is what is making the noise. not sure what part this is, but it's the source of the loud, screechy, irritating noise.

    so, do i have to replace the whole thing? if so how much should it cost? and is it hard to do?

    thanks.

    #2
    i am really confused as to what you are describing...get some pics...that always helps...

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      #3
      it's the only long metal bar that runs from behind the rotor, to somewhere behind the oilpan. and it turns when i turn the wheel.

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        #4
        It's called a drive axle.... it connets to your tranny. There is one on each side, good luck fixing it man.
        Originally posted by rickyduckworth
        i'll do *** things for the OEM trunk lip spoiler

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          #5
          ok i found a pic, i circled where the noise is coming from...in the rubber area of the drive axle.

          Last edited by jboyce; 06-07-2005, 01:19 PM.

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            #6
            it's called a cv joint.

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              #7
              is it hard to fix? and how much does it cost?

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                #8
                in my experience its better to buy a new axle..LMAO its not fun sitting there trying to pack grease in the new boot...but its your choice..its not THAT hard to change the cv joint....but no fun...

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                  #9
                  cv axles...my specialty

                  They run around $50-75 after the core charge and you'll need a ball joint seperator, 17mm sockets, an axle socket thats like 36mm (can't remember exactly), and i think a 14mm socket. Getting the axle nut off can be a bitch and you might wanna tackle that nut with the car still on the ground. A haynes manual will lead u through the steps. Takes me about 30 minutes nowadays.

                  p.s. i don't think they even sell just the cv joint anymore. Its best to buy the axle anyways cause its an easier install
                  Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

                  FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

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                    #10
                    Yeah, the new cv axle is ready to go, and should come with a life time warranty, but when I replaced the axles in my friends car the boxes they came in did not say whether either was left or right so I managed to figure it out using the spline size and length. The driver side axle goes into a half shaft on manuals and on autos it is about twice as long as the passenger side! So I suggest that when you are at the store you mark on the box which is which! Oh and I never had to seperate the balljoints, Ive managed to do it with out, but maybe easier!?!

                    WaC!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by westsideaccord
                      Oh and I never had to seperate the balljoints, Ive managed to do it with out, but maybe easier!?!
                      makes it easier on me, i just use it to lift the ball joint out of the lower control arm is all...and to pry the axle from the tranny and the half shaft.
                      Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

                      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

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                        #12
                        if you want to get the axle nut off an easy way. just stop at a grage and ask them if they could run a air line and loosen the nut , takes like 1 seccond then drive home.. (it wont fall of)

                        axles are easy.

                        1) take nut of the axle nut
                        2) take your ball joint splitter and loosin the bolt under the lower ball joint and after the nut is off then the splitter between the rod and ball joint and hit the end of the ball joint splitter with a nice hammer( until it comes loose)
                        3) then pull the roater up and swing it around

                        now pull your axle loose.

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                          #13
                          If you decide to only do the one thats making the noise, I suggest you take it with you to the store and compare it while your there. Make sure its the same lenght and everything matches up. I can't begin to tell you the troubles I've had because I didn't do this. The store will often sell you the wrong side or (in my case) it will be rebuilt incorrectly and you'd never know. Compare everything side by side!!

                          "Sticker this, censor this, ban this
                          We got something to say!
                          Police this, condemn this, damn this
                          We'll be heard anyway!
                          Middle finger is the flag that I wave when I'm silenced!" - MuDvAyNe, "Silenced"

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                            #14
                            Fixing the cv isn't very hard i did it to both sides of my accord i sugest if you have the money to buy both sides, if never replaced, do it. because it is a pain in the ass to fix one and it run good for a week or two and the other mess up. steps are:
                            1. remove cv lug before taking the wheel off it's easier.
                            2. remove wheel
                            3. seperate ball joint from control arm (I used a hammer the ghetto way never got the seperator)
                            4. if in the way, you might want to remove the strut fork easier to remove cv if out of the way.
                            5. pull cv joint out of the rotor the when removing the other side you might want to have a pan.
                            6. then reverse to replace.

                            oh and during step four your brake line may also be in the way you might want to remove it from the side it's a whole lot easier to get the axle out trust me!

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                              #15
                              thanks for all the help guys, i think i'm just gonna replace the axle...probaly only one side though cause i'm hella broke. now i just gotta find where to buy a haynes manual.

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