F22B-T:blowby...How to fix? Rings? Help!

[iamanonymous]

today is a bad day. accidental overboost. fried rings...at least i think. i have lots of blowby...excessive breather smoke, pcv valve smoking, oil leaking out the filler cap, and oil spurting out the dipstick.
16 psi, 13.5 a/f...through redline
my uneducated purchase was buying a complete set of rings.
what else if anything will i need?
what is the best method for replacing the parts?
maybe if this gets in depth enough it could be rather informative since there are many turbo accords popping up lately.

[iamanonymous]

so i imagine the easiest way to access the pistons is remove the head?

[Accord R33]

you might need all new pistons. there is a good chance you broke the ring lands and not just the rings....do you know what happened? why did it over boost?

[zipcreature]

Dude sorry to hear about that! Did you miss a gear or something?
Thought I might make someone smile:

"...Now me and the mad scientist here have to rip apart the engine to replace the WELDS on the PISTON RINGS you fried!..." hahaha

[iamanonymous]

yeah the story is on my setup page. i think im just gonna have johns old block rebuilt and give someone (who's name shall remain hidden for now) my old block. i don't have the patience for all the measurements and such right now. please keep posting info related to this subject since it will be informative, especially if i decide to tackle it on my own.

[iamanonymous]

here's most of the story:

oh well, i was driving along not really paying attention to anything.....
punchin it. burning out in 1st and 2nd (duh it seemed faster, i wonder why, duh) shifted to third, scratched hard..blew off a charge pipe...reconnected it and went on my merry way. booted the laptop, and started to get ready for a 3rd to 4th pull datalog.
well idiot me got a datalog of my piston rings fried....when i looked down at my boost gauge it was too late....who knows how long i was running 16 psi on a 10 psi map. apparently i had a little (ha) boost leak which was fixed when i retighted the charge pipe. i thought everything was normal....dammit
i had a flat (hey at least it eas flat) 13.5 a/f at 15 psi in fourth i think....and yes i will cry.
oh well, hopefully ebay will be kind to me. if my damn burner wasn't broken and i put on my "just to be safe" 2 bar map....this wouldn't have happened. live and learn. sad thing is i had no idea what was going on because i was extremely tired....
edit: as if this day couldn't get any worse...my "death of my motor" datalog is gone. piston rings, anyone????
anyone know for sure if the f22a pistons/rings are 100% interchangeable with the f22b?

[iamanonymous]

ha, i don't like using the edit button...:-)
i found a set of complete pistons for a very resonable price. i'm looking for info on the swap and install...of course i could check my chiltons...any tips guys..anyone?

[iamanonymous]

thank you wikked for a quote from an experienced mechanic regarding honing the cylinder walls
WikkedV15: From endyn:
It's necessary to provide some texture to the cylinder walls to enable the piston rings to properly seat. It'd not be necessary for pistons, assuming that the original rings were retained. If the bores have no taper using your methods of measurement, the cylinders could be readied with a whirlybird hone, or a dingle-berry hone if you prefer. Both have small balls out on the ends of many small flexable wires. If you are careful to not allow it to stay in one location, you can "dress" the cylinder walls sufficiently to make the rings seat properly. I don't want to mention this, but in emergencies, these dingle-berry hones have been used to clean the walls in engines that still reside in the car, crankshaft and all. You absolutely must protect the crank and bearing areas so no particles from the cylinder walls or the hone are washed down. Plastic and duct tape work pretty well for this. The honed cylinders also need to be cleaned very carefully prior to assembly. For a quick and dirty job, no pun intended, make a wall scrubber from a reshapped coat hanger with several layers of BOUNTY paper towels taped to the hanger at the upper end. You can use some carb and choke cleaner at first, then do it with hot water and soap and finally with WD 40 on the hanger towels. Use new towels for each step, so you may need at least one big roll. Bounty is the best towel, so don't fool around with anything else, especially the blue "mechanic's" towels. All that you are doing in this operation is removing the glaze that builds on the cylinder walls, so don't go wild. Another little tip is to make sure that you duct tape the old headgasket to the deck. This will prevent the little balls from "polishing" the area around the bores. If a drill motor and a good Sunnen hone is available with the correct grit stones for the ring material , go with it. Remember that almost constant fluid flow is mandatory with this type of hone, so be prepared to use a tub to collect it. In the 60's, we put a small fuel pump and an oil filter in the tub and the lubricant flow was continuous. Remove as little material as possible and remember that keeping everything clean is mandatory.

[h22sparkle]

welcome to my used to be world. Good luck now its all downhill after the build. You have to get it torn apart better look for a new clutch and flywheel setup also think about rebuildin the tranny too.

[CBL]

dude im sorry
The most I have ever ran on your map was 8 psi. Rings arnt that big of a deal just as long as you didnt gizz them completely. To tell you the truth I would just buy another f22b and save the old one for a motor build. Sooner or later you will thank me for this advice.

[iamanonymous]

well, im getting f22a pistons to lower the compression, i have a 16g coming, tubular mani next week, im port matching everything....i wish i had the money to get an h22 crank......it does fit correct? word around the campfire is it revs faster. correct me if im wrong please. is it a direct bolt in? does it have any impact on the compression ratio?

[iamanonymous]

welcome to my used to be world. Good luck now its all downhill after the build. You have to get it torn apart better look for a new clutch and flywheel setup also think about rebuildin the tranny too.

yeah it's gonna be tough. i already have a new clutch, flywheel, and tranny tho.

[WiKKeDV16]

well, im getting f22a pistons to lower the compression, i have a 16g coming, tubular mani next week, im port matching everything....i wish i had the money to get an h22 crank......it does fit correct? word around the campfire is it revs faster. correct me if im wrong please. is it a direct bolt in? does it have any impact on the compression ratio?

im not gonna spoon feed it to ya.. i want u to figure it out so here's what ya need

PISTON INFO

Rods

Length
H22A = 5.633
F22 = 5.572



CRANKSHAFT INFO

Stroke
H22A4 = 90.7mm/3.570
F22 = 95mm/3.740


figure out the difference between the two.. then post up ur results..use the decimal form for the stroke instead of MMs so u can calculate everything

edit: im thinking u were gonna use h22a pistons as well.. damn hybrids in my head.. too early for this ish

oh what the hell.. lol..

using an H22a Crank/F22a Rods/F22a pistons = CR will drop due to the lowered stroke of the crank.. there is a 0.17 difference between the two cranks.. so the piston would drop into the hole 0.17.. if i knew the friggin F22a piston CC i could calculate it.. but yeah compression will drop..

[iamanonymous]

im not gonna spoon feed it to ya.. i want u to figure it out so here's what ya need

PISTON INFO

Rods

Length
H22A = 5.633
F22 = 5.572



CRANKSHAFT INFO

Stroke
H22A4 = 90.7mm/3.570
F22 = 95mm/3.740


figure out the difference between the two.. then post up ur results..use the decimal form for the stroke instead of MMs so u can calculate everything

edit: im thinking u were gonna use h22a pistons as well.. damn hybrids in my head.. too early for this ish

oh what the hell.. lol..

using an H22a Crank/F22a Rods/F22a pistons = CR will drop due to the lowered stroke of the crank.. there is a 0.17 difference between the two cranks.. so the piston would drop into the hole 0.17.. if i knew the friggin F22a piston CC i could calculate it.. but yeah compression will drop..

ok carlos you did it again, im totally confused. haha
neway i may be able to get an h22 crank cheap. basically, will there be an advantage to this mod?
i want to run
f22b block
f22b head portmatched
f22a stock pistons 85mm 8.8:1
MAYBE h22 crank if it will: make the car faster

now ur saying the crank will LOWER compression....why?
honestly that may be a good thing...in your opinion what will it lower it to?

[ZigenBallZ]

f i knew the friggin F22a piston CC i could calculate it..

I beleive they are -14.7ish CC's...

but the pin location is different... so in effect the compression height would be taller...

F22 pistons will sit out of the hole with a 90.7mm crank and rods...