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    Seals question: switching to synthetic oil

    What seals would be a good idea to replace if switching from regular oil to synthetic? I'm doing my timing belt now, so I've replaced the cam shaft seal, balance shaft seal, oil pump seal, main crank seal, and valve cover gasket. I'll also be changing the oil pan gasket. The spark plug tube seals have already been replaced, as well as the spark plug grommets. What am I missing?

    I have 170000K miles on this engine and its not burning oil as far as I can tell. It does lose some oil from leaking, but that was the oil pump seal which has been replaced.

    "Sticker this, censor this, ban this
    We got something to say!
    Police this, condemn this, damn this
    We'll be heard anyway!
    Middle finger is the flag that I wave when I'm silenced!" - MuDvAyNe, "Silenced"

    #2
    Cool. I was going to try 5W-30 synthetic. I heard the lighter weights get up into camshaft and valves better to reduce chatter (I currently have 10W-30 regular oil). I've been wanting to switch to synthetic for a while, but all these horror stories of leaking seals and seizing engines kinda freaked me out. I figured since I'm changing everything that could leak now would be a good time to switch!

    "Sticker this, censor this, ban this
    We got something to say!
    Police this, condemn this, damn this
    We'll be heard anyway!
    Middle finger is the flag that I wave when I'm silenced!" - MuDvAyNe, "Silenced"

    Comment


      #3
      Sounds like You've got 'em all covered to me. Just don't forget the balancer seal retainer.
      00 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 4X4

      92 Honda Accord LX

      95 Honda Civic CX

      Comment


        #4
        I switched without changing any seals, no probs for me (engine had about 100k)

        on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
        where you been, is something wrong?
        i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by SteveB
          Rear main, but I'd hesitate to yank the trans just to do that.

          I'm running 0w-30 synthetic, no leaking seals.
          0w-30?????????damn!!!!!!!!!!! i think that is too light for your motor, don't you think?? civic hybrid uses 0w20.
          The beginning of a new era............................
          165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
          184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

          Comment


            #6
            I don't run anything other than 5W-30, but hey, thats me.
            00 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 4X4

            92 Honda Accord LX

            95 Honda Civic CX

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jhondayaaj
              0w-30?????????damn!!!!!!!!!!! i think that is too light for your motor, don't you think?? civic hybrid uses 0w20.
              0w is just the viscosity of the oil, in which the temp that it can handle the lowest....

              30 is the weight you usually go for.
              What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

              You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

              Retro!

              Hater

              I love nooBs...They make me look good

              Comment


                #8
                i use mobile 1 and have always had little leaks.
                can't say they have gotten any worse. i also read
                about synthetic eating at your seals and thought it
                was bull, but i have a leaky distributor and when i take the cap
                off to clean up oil i saw where the oil had eaten the seal
                between cap and dist. i now believe it
                Avoiding dirt at all costs

                Comment


                  #9
                  I switched to castrol syntec blended and it actually reduced some leaks and issues I'd been having...

                  Synthetic blend is good schtuff...


                  but if you're gonna replace seals just to switch I wouldn't bother... leaks will always spring out from the one you don't replace... unless you replace them all... which seems like a whole lot of work just to switch oils...

                  Try it and see if it blows smoke or leaks... if it does switch back and consider replacing the seals then...

                  you have a bunch to think about... balancer shaft seals, rear and front mains... valve stem seals... cam seals...
                  Last edited by ZigenBallZ; 05-03-2005, 08:10 AM.
                  RIP Lifsatrip7

                  ...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by ZigenBallZ
                    but if you're gonna replace seals just to switch I wouldn't bother... leaks will always spring out from the one you don't replace... unless you replace them all... which seems like a whole lot of work just to switch oils...

                    you have a bunch to think about... balancer shaft seals, rear and front mains... valve stem seals... cam seals...
                    Did you actually read my post? I said I was replacing seals because I'm in the middle of a timing belt change. I asked if there were any that I'm missing that need to be replaced if I switched...

                    Everyone else thanks for the replies. I'm also changing the distributor seal as well now, because the plastic housing that holds the rotor has a huge hole in it where some plastic just broke out. Arizona heat kills rubber and plastic components on these cars...

                    "Sticker this, censor this, ban this
                    We got something to say!
                    Police this, condemn this, damn this
                    We'll be heard anyway!
                    Middle finger is the flag that I wave when I'm silenced!" - MuDvAyNe, "Silenced"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by evol90accord
                      Did you actually read my post? I said I was replacing seals because I'm in the middle of a timing belt change. I asked if there were any that I'm missing that need to be replaced if I switched...
                      No need to be snotty about it...

                      I was just saying if you're going to replace one you might as well replace all of them...because the one to give you problems will be the one that you didn't replace...
                      RIP Lifsatrip7

                      ...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        No need for you to get all butthurt, either. I'm asking which one's I missed that would cause me problems. No biggie tho. If anything leaks it'll just give me another excuse to tear into the car. Lets face it, its all I live for on the weekends!

                        "Sticker this, censor this, ban this
                        We got something to say!
                        Police this, condemn this, damn this
                        We'll be heard anyway!
                        Middle finger is the flag that I wave when I'm silenced!" - MuDvAyNe, "Silenced"

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by evol90accord
                          No need for you to get all butthurt, either. I'm asking which one's I missed that would cause me problems. No biggie tho. If anything leaks it'll just give me another excuse to tear into the car. Lets face it, its all I live for on the weekends!
                          Ok now you're just being a dick...

                          the main seals, balancer seals and the valvestem seals are going to be the main points if there are problems...
                          RIP Lifsatrip7

                          ...

                          Comment

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