Am going to paint my exterior door guard moldings while still on car. Decided to hard to break taking off so am painting while on car. I also want to fill in where it is cracked in a few spots. Plastic putty/filler or something else. What would be the finest to sand with? Maybe 600 am guessing. It is plastic so i plan on using a primer then base/ flat black. Is the clear worth it and make it look nice or stand out too much. The clear would protect my paint from chipping and sun but not sure i want that shine and extra trouble a clear is. Any thoughts?
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Taking off the molding is not that hard. Take your door panel off and get at the clips with needle nose pliers. Unscrew the nut that holds the molding at the end of the door. Then pinch the clip with the pliers and push each clip out till you get to the last clip closest to the fender. It’s usually a red clip. You need to pop the molding forward towards the fender to get that one off. You’ll feel much better about doing a good paint job with the molding off.Last edited by NH-503P-3; 07-13-2019, 07:47 AM.5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered
~Mark~ -
talaga. I have read how easy they are to break. Maybe i should practice at junkyard first. I have had those door panels off many times and tried once to access those clips which i couldn't. Then am scared it will break if i could push those clips out.Originally posted by NH-503P-3 View PostComment
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There is sometimes some double side tape behind the molding. You might have to grip it with your fingers and steadily pull outward on the molding. The clips I hardly have break on me. It’s rare. They aren’t exposed to sun so they should be ok. If you snap one just get another from the junkyard. But practicing there is good also. Just make sure to remember when you get to the last one near the fender. Pop the molding forward and it will slide off of the clip and off of the car. The clip will remain in the door and you have to fish it out. Try not to let it fall down in the bottom corner of the door also. There’s a bunch of harness & window stuff that it can get lost in.5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered
~Mark~Comment
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All OEM door trim has double sided tape the full length of the trim both top and bottom. Pulling it off isn't easy (unless you have new trim and aren't worried about the old stuff). Get a piece of thin sheet metal, sharpen an edge, then bend it about 90 degrees to use to slice the tape, be vary careful not to damage your paint (unless you'll be repainting before putting the trim back on).90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner ForumsComment
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I do plan on getting all the left side,hood and trunk lid repainted but probably next year. The paint looks good on passengers side and not so bad on drivers side actually. No rust in any of fender wells. Would they remove these plastic moldings when they paint these sections? Am still leaning towards painting them on car. First though i will try removing some at junkyard and see what happens. To effn hot this time of year to go to junkyard for trivial stuff so ill wait till it is cooler. Another project on hold till i go practice at junkyard.Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostComment
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They'll do whatever you want, but they will charge you the time required to remove and reinstall. I did all the disassembly and reassembly of Ruby when I had her painted (I bought all new side trim and the chrome at the bottom of the windows).
I have used a paint called Trim Black for black moldings. Hard to tell in the photo, but I did the vertical trim between the windows on the doors and the side protector on the rear door with it.
20190323_190519 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr
Last edited by Fleetw00d; 07-14-2019, 08:54 PM.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner ForumsComment
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