Ok finally i tested my car for exhaust leaks using the soap and water and shop vac trick. I found a sizeable leak at the down pipe(pipe right after the exhaust manifold). So am going to replace those two gaskets. Anyone got any tips? Those bolts do not look easy to get to as they are underneath and hidden. So far from the diagram i see to get 2 ishino pipe gaskets(ex model has 2). Anything else to get and of course any tips you might have for me?
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Exhaust Leak Found at Down Pipe Gasket? Is it hard?
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You'll have to remove the splash shield (see your other thread on this topic). If you have an OEM manifold, there are three studs in the exhaust manifold and three 14 mm nuts you can access from below with a long extension. Take a look and see how rusty the nuts and stud threads are. If you have time, blast them with penetrating oil when cool and leave them for a while. If you have the proper thread die, you could try to chase the threads as close to the nuts as you can. If you're lucky, the nuts will come off. Worst case scenarios include the nut seizing on a stud, a stud breaking (PN 90065-PC1-300), or a stud unthreading from the manifold. If they've been on there a while, you might also be ready with new nuts (PN 90212-SA5-003).
If you strip or break a stud and part of it is still exposed, there are special sockets that can be used to remove them, then a new stud can be installed. If the stud breaks without leaving part of it exposed, you'll have to remove the manifold to deal with it.Last edited by Fleetw00d; 04-27-2018, 09:01 PM.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums
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Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostYou'll have to remove the splash shield (see your other thread on this topic). If you have an OEM manifold, there are three studs in the exhaust manifold and three 14 mm nuts you can access from below with a long extension. Take a look and see how rusty the nuts and stud threads are. If you have time, blast them with penetrating oil when cool and leave them for a while. If you have the proper thread die, you could try to chase the threads as close to the nuts as you can. If you're lucky, the nuts will come off. Worst case scenarios include the nut seizing on a stud, a stud breaking (PN 90065-PC1-300), or a stud unthreading from the manifold. If they've been on there a while, you might also be ready with new nuts (PN 90212-SA5-003).
If you strip or break a stud and part of it is still exposed, there are special sockets that can be used to remove them, then a new stud can be installed. If the stud breaks without leaving part of it exposed, you'll have to remove the manifold to deal with it.
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You will also likely have to undo the bracket from the flex pipe to the back of the block to give yourself enough play to drop the top end of the flex pipe. Again, if you have the die (or even a wire brush), clean up the threads on the studs as best you can before putting it back together.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums
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Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostYou will also likely have to undo the bracket from the flex pipe to the back of the block to give yourself enough play to drop the top end of the flex pipe. Again, if you have the die (or even a wire brush), clean up the threads on the studs as best you can before putting it back together.
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ok i got splash shield off and ready to get those 3 bolts off. There is a problem. I don't see how i can reach the center one without that crossmember bar off that the front engine mount attaches to. I thought about using a crows foot but then i don't see shit and more likely to strip the bolt. Any suggestions?Will a flared crows foot 10mm wrench work better?Last edited by zedjr10; 05-12-2018, 06:32 PM.
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