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Exhaust Leak Found at Down Pipe Gasket? Is it hard?

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    Exhaust Leak Found at Down Pipe Gasket? Is it hard?

    Ok finally i tested my car for exhaust leaks using the soap and water and shop vac trick. I found a sizeable leak at the down pipe(pipe right after the exhaust manifold). So am going to replace those two gaskets. Anyone got any tips? Those bolts do not look easy to get to as they are underneath and hidden. So far from the diagram i see to get 2 ishino pipe gaskets(ex model has 2). Anything else to get and of course any tips you might have for me?

    #2
    You'll have to remove the splash shield (see your other thread on this topic). If you have an OEM manifold, there are three studs in the exhaust manifold and three 14 mm nuts you can access from below with a long extension. Take a look and see how rusty the nuts and stud threads are. If you have time, blast them with penetrating oil when cool and leave them for a while. If you have the proper thread die, you could try to chase the threads as close to the nuts as you can. If you're lucky, the nuts will come off. Worst case scenarios include the nut seizing on a stud, a stud breaking (PN 90065-PC1-300), or a stud unthreading from the manifold. If they've been on there a while, you might also be ready with new nuts (PN 90212-SA5-003).

    If you strip or break a stud and part of it is still exposed, there are special sockets that can be used to remove them, then a new stud can be installed. If the stud breaks without leaving part of it exposed, you'll have to remove the manifold to deal with it.
    Last edited by Fleetw00d; 04-27-2018, 09:01 PM.
    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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      #3
      Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
      You'll have to remove the splash shield (see your other thread on this topic). If you have an OEM manifold, there are three studs in the exhaust manifold and three 14 mm nuts you can access from below with a long extension. Take a look and see how rusty the nuts and stud threads are. If you have time, blast them with penetrating oil when cool and leave them for a while. If you have the proper thread die, you could try to chase the threads as close to the nuts as you can. If you're lucky, the nuts will come off. Worst case scenarios include the nut seizing on a stud, a stud breaking (PN 90065-PC1-300), or a stud unthreading from the manifold. If they've been on there a while, you might also be ready with new nuts (PN 90212-SA5-003).

      If you strip or break a stud and part of it is still exposed, there are special sockets that can be used to remove them, then a new stud can be installed. If the stud breaks without leaving part of it exposed, you'll have to remove the manifold to deal with it.
      Thank you. Most of the nuts and bolts on car have been ok to get off so am hoping this is too but this is hot exhaust so got fingers crossed. I don't think it has been off in at least 15 years. Good to know i must take off splash shield. Now i might do my radius rod bushings also. And again thanks for the tips.

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        #4
        You will also likely have to undo the bracket from the flex pipe to the back of the block to give yourself enough play to drop the top end of the flex pipe. Again, if you have the die (or even a wire brush), clean up the threads on the studs as best you can before putting it back together.
        90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
        08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
          You will also likely have to undo the bracket from the flex pipe to the back of the block to give yourself enough play to drop the top end of the flex pipe. Again, if you have the die (or even a wire brush), clean up the threads on the studs as best you can before putting it back together.
          I think i will be patient on this and spray pbj blaster on it over a weeks time when engine is cool and hot as i have no acetylene torch or impact wrench. And replace the nuts with stainless steel. Thanks for the tips. I was about to go out there and probably strip a nut or break a bolt. I have been getting bad gas mileage this long, what does another week hurt. I might try some of that super freeze stuff i seen also. Anyone ever tried that.

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            #6
            I’ve used that super freeze stuff. It’s basically PB Blaster with R134 mixed in so it comes out “freezing”. Not worth the extra money in my opinion. Worse case, use a propane torch to break it loose. I still have that can of freeze stuff somewhere..

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              #7
              Do i seal the gaskets with anything like with liquid copper or anything.

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                #8
                No, they are crush gaskets and will seal up as you tighten up the bolts.
                MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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                  #9
                  ok i got splash shield off and ready to get those 3 bolts off. There is a problem. I don't see how i can reach the center one without that crossmember bar off that the front engine mount attaches to. I thought about using a crows foot but then i don't see shit and more likely to strip the bolt. Any suggestions?Will a flared crows foot 10mm wrench work better?
                  Last edited by zedjr10; 05-12-2018, 06:32 PM.

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