I made a post about installing sway bar bushings so i might as well ask about installing radius rod bushings. It seems kind of str8t forward except for the adjusting shim i see in my shop manual. Any tips anyone got is appreciated.
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Installing Radius Rod(strut rod) Bushings
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Every Accord I've owned seems to have just one shim on each rod. You've already experienced the toughest part of replacing the bushings - disconnecting the radius rod from the lower control arm. Remove the radius rod nut first, those threads are usually rusty and you'll need it bolted to the lower control arm to resist rotation. After you do all this front end work, I suggest an alignment. If the caster is off, then you'll either have to remove or add washers to the radius rods. The other option would be to use "C" shaped spacers that can be slipped over the rod so the rods don't need to be removed.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums
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Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostEvery Accord I've owned seems to have just one shim on each rod. You've already experienced the toughest part of replacing the bushings - disconnecting the radius rod from the lower control arm. Remove the radius rod nut first, those threads are usually rusty and you'll need it bolted to the lower control arm to resist rotation. After you do all this front end work, I suggest an alignment. If the caster is off, then you'll either have to remove or add washers to the radius rods. The other option would be to use "C" shaped spacers that can be slipped over the rod so the rods don't need to be removed.
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Possibly. I've basically had them tell me that caster can't be adjusted. It is a pain in the backside compared to adjusting toe. When I rebuilt the wagon after my daughter whacked the curb with the right front wheel, they did an initial alignment, then I took it home to remove the shim and attempt some other adjustments to get the caster up from 0.8 to 1.6 (it is supposed to be 2.0 to 4.0) when they did the final alignment. To move it further, I'd probably have to cut the shoulder on the rod back some or shave the bushing, but it seems to drive OK and doesn't wear the tires oddly, so I haven't messed with it since.
The concern with a "C" shaped shim would be it falling out. Although the nut actually clamps a sleeve between the two bushing washers and the rear most washer against the shim, so if tightened correctly I don't think it would come off.Last edited by Fleetw00d; 04-20-2018, 11:39 PM.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums
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Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostPossibly. I've basically had them tell me that caster can't be adjusted. It is a pain in the backside compared to adjusting toe. When I rebuilt the wagon after my daughter whacked the curb with the right front wheel, they did an initial alignment, then I took it home to remove the shim and attempt some other adjustments to get the caster up from 0.8 to 1.6 (it is supposed to be 2.0 to 4.0) when they did the final alignment. To move it further, I'd probably have to cut the shoulder on the rod back some or shave the bushing, but it seems to drive OK and doesn't wear the tires oddly, so I haven't messed it since.
The concern with a "C" shaped shim would be it falling out. Although the nut actually clamps a sleeve between the two bushing washers and the rear most washer against the shim, so if tightened correctly I don't think it would come off.
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Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostEvery Accord I've owned seems to have just one shim on each rod. You've already experienced the toughest part of replacing the bushings - disconnecting the radius rod from the lower control arm. Remove the radius rod nut first, those threads are usually rusty and you'll need it bolted to the lower control arm to resist rotation. After you do all this front end work, I suggest an alignment. If the caster is off, then you'll either have to remove or add washers to the radius rods. The other option would be to use "C" shaped spacers that can be slipped over the rod so the rods don't need to be removed.
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