Clutch lets out close to the floor

[G. Wiffington]

As a comparison, after driving the Civic I bought (Manual Trans) the clutch feels a lot different
than in my CB. I know the clutch is pretty warn out in my Civic because the
clutch lets out towards the very top of the clutch pedal. I was told that was
a sign of a worn clutch. But, I have noticed that on my CB the clutch seems to let out very close to the floor.

The trans has no problem going into any gear & feels good. No grinding at all. It just feels weird how the clutch lets out very early.

I have bled the system a few times but I do not see any air bubbles while performing the bleed.

I also tried to adjust the pedal per the Helms specs but it still feels the same.

I am using the CMC from when I had my F22 which is just a Duralast from Autoozone.

I did install a new Slave Cylinder from Advanced Auuto when doing the H-Swap.

I was somewhat leaning towards the slave cylinder just being faulty.

It just feels really strange that the clutch would let out very very close the the floor.

Maybe I am just getting used to the way the Civic Clutch feels.

Any suggestions guys?

[Fleetw00d]

Assuming that everything is working correctly, you should be able to adjust the pedal to your liking. Have a helper push the pedal while you watch the slave cylinder to make sure it appears that it is stroking completely. Obviously with the clutch pedal to the floor it shouldn't drag and with it completely released, it shouldn't slip.

[Raf99]

What fleetw00d said and make sure you're master cylinder is set properly. Personally I love it when the clutch engages right off the floor but if you over rotate the master cylinder it will do what you are describing. Catch way too soon and ..... like an on/off switch. And it also seems the difference between wrong and right is several turns.

[G. Wiffington]

Thanks guys. I will give it another shot with the master cylinder rod adjustment. My pedal adjustment wasn't touched since I had the F22 in my car.

Do you think the the pedal stroke between the F22 vs the H22 is that different?

Also, the clutch in the F22 was pretty warn & the clutch in my T2W4 is still the one it came with when I got the swap from HMO. I assumed that the clutch should be pretty decent since the engine only had about 40,000 miles.

About how far in length should the slave extend? I used my phone to catch a video of the slave stroking while I pressed the clutch a few times & it looked like it extended as far as it should go but, it just still doesn't feel right.

I really think that the bleeder screw on the slave is allowing air in. I was having issues with the bleeder screw leaking when I first did the H swap. When I would run my finger under the bleeder screw I could see some fluid on my finger.
I pulled the bleeder screw out & wrapped some teflon around it. I bled it again & it felt a little bit better but still engages right off of the floor.

It is just annoying when I start moving forward from a dead stop.

[Raf99]

Thanks guys. I will give it another shot with the master cylinder rod adjustment. My pedal adjustment wasn't touched since I had the F22 in my car.

Do you think the the pedal stroke between the F22 vs the H22 is that different?

Also, the clutch in the F22 was pretty warn & the clutch in my T2W4 is still the one it came with when I got the swap from HMO. I assumed that the clutch should be pretty decent since the engine only had about 40,000 miles.

About how far in length should the slave extend? I used my phone to catch a video of the slave stroking while I pressed the clutch a few times & it looked like it extended as far as it should go but, it just still doesn't feel right.

I really think that the bleeder screw on the slave is allowing air in. I was having issues with the bleeder screw leaking when I first did the H swap. When I would run my finger under the bleeder screw I could see some fluid on my finger.
I pulled the bleeder screw out & wrapped some teflon around it. I bled it again & it felt a little bit better but still engages right off of the floor.

It is just annoying when I start moving forward from a dead stop.

Hmmm, well first make sure the slave cylinder is not leaking. If it is, replace it.
Second, does the clutch catch at the proper spot according to the manual?

Mine catches an inch or two from the floor. The other indicator is how much thread is left in the welded nut on the end?

[G. Wiffington]

Raf..very nice picture thanks for that.

I am going to replace the slave. I bought a Honda piece & it is just waiting to be installed as well as a Beck/Arnley CMC just in case.

I haven't driven my car since this weekend so I can't remember exactly where it catches, but I want to say that it is almost a 1/2"-1" where it catches.

Okay when you ask about how much thread is left in the welded nut on the end, did you mean the nut that in place for the clutch switch or the nut that is on the rod for the CMC?

Either way I have to verify I just want to make sure I am looking at the correct nut you are talking about.

I think I might have been spinning the rod for the CMC the wrong direction when I tried to do an adjustment the other day.

[Rilas]

I have a feeling that you most likely have air in the slave cylinder. Your going to need a hand or find the perfect board to hold your clutch pedal down for you.

Pump up some pressure in the clutch lines by pumping the pedal a few times. Then hold the clutch down (with board between pedal and front of seat or extra person). Open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Once the pressure is released then squeeze the slave cylinder all the way together with your hand. Tighten up the bleeder valve. Repeat this process until the clutch feels better. If this doesn't resolve the issue then replace whichever cylinder is bad. If you don't do this, you can spend hours and hours bleeding your clutch. The slave has more travel than you can get with just the pedal alone, so you have to forcefully bleed it.

[G. Wiffington]

Thanks Rilas I hope it is just air in the slave as well.

I will definitely try to bleed it again before I replace the slave.

The process you described is exactly how I usually do it with a helper. I use a soda bottle with brake fluid inside with a clear tubing submerged & also connected to the bleeder valve.

The last time I did the bleed my helper said that he saw a stream of fluid come through the clear tubing with no air bubbles.

But......whenever I was holding the clutch down & the helper opened the valve I could feel like a "blow by" or some air in the pedal right where the clutch master cylinder is the last attempt before the helper said he saw no more bubbles.. <-This kinda threw me off as well.

[G. Wiffington]

Success!

After seeing that great detailed picture of which way you are supposed to spin the CMC Rod I fixed my problem. (Thanks Raf99 for the picture.)

I was spinning the rod the wrong way so I must have been "lowering" the engagement point for the clutch.

I also checked around the slave & not it appears to be dry with no leaks at all. I will keep an eye on it but it seems like my issue was resolved.

I kept messing with the engagement point until it felt right. After the last attempt at messing with the engagement point I put the trans in 1st gear, slowly let out the clutch with giving no gas, & at about half way of the pedal I could feel the clutch start to engage.

I can't believe I was spinning the rod the wrong way! It really feels like driving a totally different car.

Thanks for the help guys!

[Raf99]

Success!

After seeing that great detailed picture of which way you are supposed to spin the CMC Rod I fixed my problem. (Thanks Raf99 for the picture.)

I was spinning the rod the wrong way so I must have been "lowering" the engagement point for the clutch.

I also checked around the slave & not it appears to be dry with no leaks at all. I will keep an eye on it but it seems like my issue was resolved.

I kept messing with the engagement point until it felt right. After the last attempt at messing with the engagement point I put the trans in 1st gear, slowly let out the clutch with giving no gas, & at about half way of the pedal I could feel the clutch start to engage.

I can't believe I was spinning the rod the wrong way! It really feels like driving a totally different car.

Thanks for the help guys!

Your welcome. I made the same mistake back in my younger days. And it seems just a slight turn makes a big difference. They should put yellow paint markers on it for where the OEM location should be.

[G. Wiffington]

Yes, exactly. The smallest turn on that rod has a huge effect on where the engagement point is. I am glad that was my issue. Thanks!