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    Exhaust size

    So I have a '91 DX and the exhaust has been replaced from the cat back. Someone jerry-rigged a different flex pipe in using some kind of connector for the front, and a wide pipe clamp at the rear. exhaust comes into the car after a while. I want to remove that old flex pipe and replace it with a new piece. The cost of replacing the downpipe and braided flex as a whole is just not in my budget. What size inside diameter is the exhaust in this instance? I don't wanna cut the pipe out just to find out if someone already knows.
    Thanks
    I don't jerry-rig, i make custom parts with alternative materials.

    '91 DX 4 door Auto

    #2
    update

    well i went out and pulled the heat shield off the exhaust manifold and like so many others, i have a cracked manifold on the far right port, near the junction. had a solid black area on the inside of the shield, not that that is my greatest concern currently. i was mainly looking at how the downpipe is bolted to the exhaust manifold and tested to see how "on there" they are. and man are they on there. any suggestions as well on breaking those bolts loose without breaking those bolts off?
    I don't jerry-rig, i make custom parts with alternative materials.

    '91 DX 4 door Auto

    Comment


      #3
      Lots of heat and penetrating oil; Kroil PB Blaster/WD-40. Give them a good shot of kroil and let it sit. Then give the flanges a lot of heat. You don't want to heat up the stud as much, you want to focus the heat on the flange threads or the nut, depending on your setup.

      If you don't have access to oxy-acetylene torch. I find that the Yellow BernzOmatic MAP-Pro torches work the best for this sort of stuff. Butane or Propane just don't get as hot fast enough.
      MR Thread
      GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

      by Chappy, on Flickr

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        #4
        i dont know what your budget is, but you can find header/downpipe combo's on ebay for about 60-80$ for cheap "stainless" ones, ive had one on my car for about 2 years, it may not be the best quality or for great power increase, but they do seem to work. Considering having the header fixed and a new flex pipe welded in will probably run you more than that

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          #5
          I can't vouch for the quality of eBay headers but that might be the way to go. Would be a good chance to ditch the crappy, crackprone 4-1 header and get a 4-2-1 setup.

          I've found stock cast 4-2-1 headers for about $40-50, and new aftermarket downpipes for about $70 on eBay.
          1992 EX, 306,000 miles - Track toy - M2S4, H23A1, ST rear swaybar, Wagon brakes, GC coil sleeves, KYB AGX dampers, Stoptech pads, Toyo Proxes R1R, 2.25" exhaust



          Stock F22A6
          VIR, 5/22/2016: https://youtu.be/eR5-ylSPsxk

          H23A1 powered
          NCCAR, 9/4/2016: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI5WpxGrEpE
          CMP, 10/16/2016: https://youtu.be/DOqoe5f-GLY

          Comment


            #6
            The cheap "ebay" header seems to be the most common solution, as others have said. It's been that way for years. Most of the time, the only problems that people seem to have with those cheap things are the gaskets that come with them. Get better gaskets, install everything correctly, and you'll likely have the best solution.






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              #7
              I got a faulty ebay header, and it sucked, and I broke a stud inside my head because of it, costing me a hundred dollars+

              I would save up for a $150 header, if I were to do it again.
              I'm faster then a prius

              Comment


                #8
                If you're just going to weld up the downpipe from the collector with other pipes/flex pipe I'd go with 2.25".

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by GTRON View Post
                  I got a faulty ebay header, and it sucked, and I broke a stud inside my head because of it, costing me a hundred dollars+

                  I would save up for a $150 header, if I were to do it again.
                  You often do get what you pay for. The $150 headers are no better in terms of power production than the $50 ones, but you're definitely right about there being a higher chance that they'll have better build quality. OBX or Megan Racing seem to be the best cheapies to go with. They're pricier than the total no-name stuff, but still cheap compared to the genuinely good stuff.






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                    #10
                    I made 376WHP on 2.5" crush bent exhaust with a 2.25" resonator. True story. Making the 3" upgrade as we speak, along with a bunch of other things.
                    spin city

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