Weird Squeaking Noises

[GTRON]

Hey Guys, I'm getting this really annoying, loud Squeaking, squealing sound when I turn my steering wheel... I was under my car last week and I saw that there's a rubber boot that's split, wondering if that is anything to do with it.... I would really appreciate some opinions on this. Thanks!

[GTRON]

It mainly squeaks when turning left. It happens when I'm not moving too.

[illinois_erik]

death throes of the ball joint. unless you replaced everything with poly lol.

[GTRON]

Well Crap. How much is that going to cost.

[illinois_erik]

Well Crap. How much is that going to cost.

whole UCA [20 for shit ebay that lasts 6mo or 1200 miles, (shop discount) 80 carquest, blue box part, poly boot. decent.] 15 ball joint moog , press out old and in new, fairly easy "not recommended", anchor bolt bushing probably shot too or close..more of something to do in pairs. keep the one "good" one as spare...cheapest. raise car free joint see how much play it has if its still tight, get some tie rod boots or w/e at the store, then clean the joint with some solvent and work some grease in, load the boot with grease, assemble and let it work its way out, and it might last another year or 2

[JFISHTHECREATOR]

Well Crap. How much is that going to cost.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...tcgry5=KNUCKLE

[GTRON]

How much should a average shop be charging to fix that?

[Accrdwgnguy]

idk take it to a shop and find out. Never taken mine to a shop for anything.

BTW best deal on lower joints is OEM Honda, 25 bucks each, new updated design with no c-clip.

[masospaghetti]

Not a fan of the new Honda design ball joints without the c-clip. Mine backed out of the knuckle, maybe my knuckle was bad, but then maybe not. Unfortunately replacing the lower ball joint on the CB7 is more annoying than most because the joint is pressed into the knuckle, not the LCA. Usually you can just replace the whole LCA and it will come with a new ball joint.

Probably the most reliably good parts I've gotten aftermarket are Beck/Arnley, a lot of their stuff is Japanese made.

[Rilas]

While Beck/Arnley can be good Japanese parts, they can also be total shit Taiwan parts.
Quality and Shit Beck/Arnley Parts (Left and right outer tie rod. One Taiwan and one Japan made. Japan made is of much better quality.)


Beck/Arnley Parts


Quality and Shit Moog Ball Joints (USA and Taiwan made. The USA made is of much higher quality.)


Taiwan left, USA right (I hope you can see the differences.)


For suspension components your best bet is usually OEM. Unless you need adjustable then obviously after market is your only choice. Just a heads up on the fun things the parts companies do. You never know what your going to get until it shows up in the mail.

[PakaloloHonda]

For suspension components your best bet is usually OEM. Unless you need adjustable then obviously after market is your only choice. Just a heads up on the fun things the parts companies do. You never know what your going to get until it shows up in the mail.

Maybe I'm behind the curve here just a bit, but you "describe" the difference in the images above?
I don't see any difference myself .. color? different material?

[Rilas]

Maybe I'm behind the curve here just a bit, but you "describe" the difference in the images above?
I don't see any difference myself .. color? different material?

If you look at the casting of the tie rods. The Japan tie rod is cast EXACTLY like OEM. The Taiwan tie rod is just a generic casting of the tie rod. Also the ball join in the Japan unit was much tighter than the Taiwan unit.

Onto the ball joints. Look at how much more sturdily built the USA unit it. There is almost 2x as much material in the housing itself. Also again the USA ball joint was very tight and had no play, while the Taiwan unit was looser feeling with a touch of play in it. So they are different visually and in terms of quality.

[Accrdwgnguy]

Not a fan of the new Honda design ball joints without the c-clip. Mine backed out of the knuckle, maybe my knuckle was bad, but then maybe not. Unfortunately replacing the lower ball joint on the CB7 is more annoying than most because the joint is pressed into the knuckle, not the LCA. Usually you can just replace the whole LCA and it will come with a new ball joint.

Probably the most reliably good parts I've gotten aftermarket are Beck/Arnley, a lot of their stuff is Japanese made.

Yea you need new/used spindles. The ball joint hole can wear out, I've had one where I just popped in the new balljoint by hand. Not good. That'll be an issue even with the old design with a c-clip, balljoint will move around in the spindle, wearing it even more. I've replaced soooo many over the years being in a Honda family.

UCA's, I usually bought the cheapest parts store ones with a lifetime warranty. Not worth getting the best ones for a daily driver, takes 5-10 minutes to swap them out when you need a new one. Usually when the boot splits it's time for a new one.

[illinois_erik]

for LBJ's ive been using mevotech and like them very much then for like the 3rd set i found them cheap af on rockauto..like 17$ a piece..theyre primo too.

A shop is going to be like 80/hr.

The upper bj is what i was thinking about..ive used ebay, and autozone ones they suck, the *best* one was the car quest one but that was 80 at discount, the other option is about 20 bucks for poly anchor bushings per side, then a decent UBJ, i think spc makes some that arent adjustable so theyre not like 90 a pop. but only if you have the oem arms and anchors. once cheap repops have been used the whole assembly should be changed imo. even upgrading autozone arm's anchor bushings with poly would last a lot longer. the anchor bushings go bad so quick

[masospaghetti]

While Beck/Arnley can be good Japanese parts, they can also be total shit Taiwan parts.

...

For suspension components your best bet is usually OEM. Unless you need adjustable then obviously after market is your only choice. Just a heads up on the fun things the parts companies do. You never know what your going to get until it shows up in the mail.

I agree that it's really annoying that parts companies outsource their parts so you don't really know what you're going to get until it shows up.

Maybe I've been lucky with B/A. Even their Taiwanese stuff has held up fine so far. Even better than Moog (and I like Moog).

Yea you need new/used spindles. The ball joint hole can wear out, I've had one where I just popped in the new balljoint by hand. Not good. That'll be an issue even with the old design with a c-clip, balljoint will move around in the spindle, wearing it even more. I've replaced soooo many over the years being in a Honda family.

UCA's, I usually bought the cheapest parts store ones with a lifetime warranty. Not worth getting the best ones for a daily driver, takes 5-10 minutes to swap them out when you need a new one. Usually when the boot splits it's time for a new one.

My 2 cents but definitely disagree with you here. The cheapest suspension parts are a serious safety hazard and have no business being on a car. On an "Ultrapower" brand tie rod end the stud was made of such low quality metal it wouldn't even torque to spec (which was like 30 ft-lbs) without stripping. On some UCAs, the ball joints were actually moving around in their cages, you could see the whole assembly wobbling around in there. These parts were brand new. Obviously no quality control whatsoever. If you have a upper ball joint break loose while driving it would not be good. Do yourself a favor and buy better parts. They are not that much more expensive.