Whats up guys? So i juat got back from my mechanicS place and he says that loud chatter noise is coming from my front balance shaft. When i went to spin the shaft by hand it felt really really coarse and heard metal on metal grinding noise. Now will this cause a motor to not start? And what cause this in the first place as it hasnt been driven nor started and left running. The furthest this motor got was trying to start it after I got the motor short blocked by another machine shop and slapped a head gasket and head on. Thanks to anyone and everyone who may help me out!!!
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Try starting the engine without the balance shaft belt and if there's no chatter, then that's your problem.
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Thats my next approach as i have to find a way to come up with 350 to get my car out of the shop, pay 55 for a tow just to gwt it back in my hands as it seems this mechanic couldnt handle it. Als couldnt handle their outrageous rates... 350 to put a trans in and try starting the car... Thanks man!!!Comment
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Leave the balance shaft belt off. If the seal has been replaced then it won't leak not like it's likely to anyways being as the shaft will no longer be in rotation. Also make sure it has a balance shaft seal retainer on it. Problem solved and call it a day. That's if that's what the noise is coming from.
$350 to put a trans in isn't too bad btw. Just my 2 cents on that.
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Really? I kinda felt i was finding myself over a barrel fast the longer my car sits there... But what will cause the shaft to fail upon trying to start a fresh rebuild?Comment
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Either damage or error occurring during the rebuild or possibly installation of the engine but that's just a guess. Once again that's if it's a balance shaft issue.Originally posted by H22/23cb7 View Post
And yes, you can leave the balance shaft belt off. It's not the proper way to do a balance shaft delete but it's been done with this method many many times.
If there is a problem with the balance shafts or related components you run the risk of one of them breaking, coming apart, failing etc and interfering with the timing belt. Because of this deleting the balance shafts and/or related components reduces the likelihood of a timing related failure by simply reducing the amount of parts that can fail in that area.
Balance shafts are present in some 4 cylinders because the design produces whats called a second order vibration. Balance shafts help reduce the effects of this vibration. It has been said that Honda used balance shafts in the F22A primarily for the comfort of the driver and or other occupants to make it operate smoother.
The issue if it's a balance shaft is a negative on your end regardless of who made the error as the one person who isn't responsible is you. So there is that aspect as well. In reality I would say that errors in services you paid or are going to pay for should be made right however sometimes circumstances can get in the way of that.
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You'll gain about 5whp leaving the balance shaft belt off. The vibrations aren't really felt leaving the belt off, at least i didn't notice it on my 90 DD accord I had. Having 9lbs of rotating mass freed from the crankshaft also has some other benefits, your acceleration would be improved and fuel economy as well.
member's ride thread
93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
91 Accord SE 176k
97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parentsComment
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Take a vid of the noise and post it up (Ewtube).
And yeah you took it to a mechanic? Hows your arm feeling after they ripped it off you? Lmao. Sorry man, get you sum tools and a shop manual and work on that thing yourself. Just don't overdo it, cause that's very possible. Or is it? Haha. I mean I went from cleaning egr ports to swapping the engine and trying to rebuild it(it ran good aside from the fact I put the piston rings in the wrong places so that it burned oil). Can't imagine how much money I saved over the years from not taking it to a mechanic, thousands of dollars. You just lose time and its a slow learning process. You develop something with your car tho and it can be a lot of fun. Like grown up legos with a real purpose. Lol.
EDIT: Wait this ain't the newb section, you just took it to see what was wrong. Mb lmao.Last edited by Mishakol129; 12-07-2015, 06:00 AM.“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
― Jeremy Clarkson
Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755
Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144Comment
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gold ^sold! But here's my build thread for those interested.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206864
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Okay for shts and giggles I cranked my motor over last night and didnt hear that noise I mentioned. Mind you that I did remove the balance shaft belt. Now am I at risk of having itty bitty pieces of shrapnel in my poor motor will I?? Should I drain and fill my motor with fresh fluids and try starting????????????Comment
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Today I was doing some troubleshooting and I have spark going to cyl.1, fuel pressure at the fuel rail, and no start. The only way I can get it to start is spraying some starting fluid in the intake manifold and starts and runs til it burns off the starting fluid even after I give the throttle some play while trying to keep it alive. What is causing the motor to die off after it burns the starting fluid. I do have between 1/4 and 1/2 tank of gas in my tank. I put a power probe on the injectors and only cylinders 1&2 injectors dont have power. Also my fuel injector resistor box got super hot after all this. Any comments? Please help!!!Comment
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Fuel starvation is causing the motor to die. What do you mean by "only cylinders 1 & 2 don't have power?" As in no voltage is there? Check your resistor box resistance.Comment
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If it starts and runs with starting fluid, then it's a fuel problem. So at least you're not chasing spark like a crazy person.
What PSI is your fuel system at? It should be 28-35psi at idle. This is with vacuum btw.
High heat means high resistance. Do what Sonik said, and get readings on the box. Check the harness for corrosion on it as well. Get resistance readings on the problem injectors too. Replace if it's stupid high.
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Yes the first and second cylinder fuel injectors dont have voltage. Ineed to get myself a volt meter to check the resistance on that box.Originally posted by sonikaccord View PostComment
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That's strange...I'm willing to bet that your resistor box is dead.Originally posted by H22/23cb7 View Post
When you get your dmm, or you could use a test light, check the voltage on the yel/blk wire going into the resistor box connector. Then check the red wire going into the the resistor box. The injectors should ALL have battery voltage on the red/blk wire. If not, I would highly...I mean really HIGHLY suspect that your resistor box is shot.
You'll also want to check your injector resistances as well.Comment
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