cb7 not reaching normal op temp even after 20 minutes

[EsperHamid]

- deleted heater
- deleted oil cooler
- relocated the transmission cooler from the original clogged radiator
- installed a new radiator and left the transmission cooler inside my new radiator disconnected that way I can avoid transmission oil mess (really itchy) next time I am working on my car
- I also installed a shorter belt bypassing A/C and only connecting crank pulley to alternator

end result ?! even after 20 minutes of sitting idle and the cooling fans switching on and off the needle barely reaches D3 where in normal conditions should be between D3 and D4

I put JB weld on my thermostat gasket after emptying the cooling system the day before and installed the thermostat just to be sure the gasket won't be leaking cold coolant when the thermostat is closed.

The thermostat opens and closes normally and has a marking of 78C degrees, I know because the radiator hoses after warming up both become hot.

I am also keeping on seeing small bubbles even after 20 minutes and the fans working normally.

should I disconnect the A/C fan if I bypassed the A/C for it to reach normal op temp ?

[F22Chris]

I've never seen a CB reach proper temp on the gauge. It's always a bit low in my experiences. If the cooling fan comes on, then your car is reaching normal temperatures.

[deevergote]

Our temperature gauges have never been particularly accurate (or at least they weren't when the newest CB was 7 years old... when I started messing with them...) They're really just a step up from an "idiot light". If the needle is at the bottom, it's cold. If it's somewhere in the middle... anywhere in the middle... it's at or near operating temperature. If it's up near the top, it's overheating, and the engine should be shut off immediately.

If anything, deleting the various parts that you did may have made your cooling system more efficient.
As long as the thermostat is opening, coolant is flowing, and there are no leaks or major air bubbles in the system causing idle issues, I'd say there's nothing to worry about.

[dj_ender]

Stock replacement or aluminum radiator? I don't reach proper operating temp now that I have an aluminum radiator.

[EsperHamid]

Stock replacement or aluminum radiator? I don't reach proper operating temp now that I have an aluminum radiator.

@Deevergote thanks for your re-assuring answer. My IM gasket assembly is due to replacement, I will see if it has any impact, just eliminating all risks. But I can feel safe now driving my CB will post a video soon @highway speed and another bleeding the system.

DJ_ENDER !!!!!!!!! LONG TIME NO SEE MY FRIEND !!!! Thanks for your input !! the radiator is aluminum it has a plastic tank upper and lower tank but they aren't that exposed compared to the aluminum also it looks a little wider than the stock.

If I want to compare surface area, I'd say aluminum make 90% of it and plastic only 10%. I also realized, that the fans would come on then shut off real quick, they don't take a lot of time to cool it down.

What made me concerned though is that MPG went bad and also I don't have power climbing a hill, the gas pedal feels spongy... either it is a vacuum leak or an O2 sensor going bad without a code since I can't find any coolant leaks.

PS: the lack of power was before I changed the radiator come to think of it, maybe I didn't notice the difference in temp back then because the old radiator was 95% literally clogged