VTEC Working?

[DGOfTheCentury]

Move your ground for the VTEC solenoid to the chassis, sounds like that's exactly why you're not getting VTEC engagement. O2 doesn't matter to VTEC engagement, which your engine is not engaging. Stop revving it so high until you get it fixed, you're just wasting gas. 3K max.

You should get your O2 code fixed, as well, otherwise, you could damage something considering that's what monitors A/F ratios and tells the ECU to adjust, and your car could either be running dangerously lean or rich. Without that feedback, your ECU's in safe mode and more than likely just dumping fuel.

Ok, i will go ahead and move the ground to the chassis. Any recommendations where? I was thinking, i should put it where my fuse box grounds. Also, just out of curiosity, why would it matter where i ground it?

[DGOfTheCentury]

did you make sure to use the right size pin on d4? i made the noob mistake and used a wrong size and it didnt work because of it.
if the sensor clicks most likely its good
how do you actually have it wired?

The pins are from a 92' Civic, i made sure the sizes matched. There is only two sizes, small and big on my ECM plugs. The wire setup is pretty ghetto, i have two wires coming through the firewall on the driver side, then across to the ECM, colors are red (VTEC; A4) and blue (pressure switch; D6), on the POA-A01.

Funny thing, i took off the wires completely while redoing the wires (VTEC not wired), then i had to go pick up my friend and now the engine goes all the way to 6K

[Chrisnick]

It's because your engine is not a ground for itself. The switch's ground must be wired to the chassis as THAT is the ground source. Just removing the wires and it functioning(to an extent "functioning") to 6000rpm shows you the source of your problem: improper wiring of VTEC solenoid and switch.

I personally have mine grounded to a bolt threaded into a previously unused, threaded bolt hole on the passenger side shock tower. I cleaned the paint off just barely around the hole to allow sufficient ground, but an eyelet on the end of the wire when pressed against the head/shoulder of a bolt that's threaded into such a hole would probably suffice.

[DGOfTheCentury]

It's because your engine is not a ground for itself. The switch's ground must be wired to the chassis as THAT is the ground source. Just removing the wires and it functioning(to an extent "functioning") to 6000rpm shows you the source of your problem: improper wiring of VTEC solenoid and switch.

I personally have mine grounded to a bolt threaded into a previously unused, threaded bolt hole on the passenger side shock tower. I cleaned the paint off just barely around the hole to allow sufficient ground, but an eyelet on the end of the wire when pressed against the head/shoulder of a bolt that's threaded into such a hole would probably suffice.

Sure does show that i fucked it up lol. Alright, i will give it a go, once i get the opportunity, and give feedback. Hopefully, i have not already damaged my ECM.

[Frijoles]

Sure does show that i fucked it up lol. Alright, i will give it a go, once i get the opportunity, and give feedback. Hopefully, i have not already damaged my ECM.

Something no one mentioned yet that I saw, you said it needs VTEC to rev passed 5k, which isn't true. It simply won't engage, but the engine will rev to the fuel cutoff in the ECU.

If you are cutting off at 5k, there is a good chance something else is VERY wrong. Either the tune is wrong, you aren't getting proper fuel, your car is in limp mode, any number of things could be wrong.

What ECU are you running? What CEL codes are you getting?

[djcaz_aom]

Your ground should be no longer than 12 inches. Ground it as close to the thermostat housing as possible.

One question, has this motor ever been taken apart?