Water Pump Replacement without

[EsperHamid]

My ride is overheating @highway speed and I had couple of hoses at the back of my engine leaking due to pressure one after another.

I am suspecting the water pump as my thermostat is working normally, my question is can I change my water pump without removing any of the belts ?!

Thank you

[N9netwoAccord]

No, your water pump is ran by your timing belt.

[EsperHamid]

No, your water pump is ran by your timing belt.

yeah I know, I have the plastic covers already removed, so everything is exposed.

was thinking of inserting a thin metallic cable between the water pump gear and the belt and pull the belt a little until there's room between the gear and the belt then unbolt the water pump bolts.

then mark where a the tooth of the various gears on the engine meet the belt before removing the tensioner bolt of the water pump then remove the pump

[EsperHamid]

alright another suggestion, if I remove my IM and then the metal tube going to the water pump at the back of the engine can I then inspect to see if the water pump fins are damaged or rusted using my a small light through the hole ?

[sonikaccord]

You could but you'll be making it hard on yourself. It takes only 5 minutes to align to tdc and remove the belt. It'll take a lot longer to disconnect the IM and the tube.

Why are you against removing the belt?

[Raf99]

Ya. just get some white-out and mark the belt and the gear with one line, do this for each cog/gear. Then when it comes time to put things back together (assuming nothing moved) you'll know you are good to go.

[DGOfTheCentury]

Before you began, run the car, give the front house a squeeze and hold. If the pressure or difficulty of the squeeze is consistent, your pump is working fine.

If you are already down there and you have everything removed. Do as they say and mark the belt and gear with something permanent and visible.

I was on edge with removing the timing belt as well. The first time is always the scariest. However, you will find that the crank and cam gear are both pretty stiff. The chances of them moving out of timing is slim. I have even gone the length of replacing the entire belt.

Make your marks and take your time.

[EsperHamid]

Why are you against removing the belt?

(assuming nothing moved)

that's why I am afraid, how to make things NOT MOVE ?

[EsperHamid]

Before you began, run the car, give the front house a squeeze and hold. If the pressure or difficulty of the squeeze is consistent, your pump is working fine.

Thanks for the advice, what do you mean by the front house ?! the upper radiator hose?

on a different note, when you swap an a F22A for an F22B1, do you need to change anything ?! the ECU for example ?!

[sonikaccord]

You'll have to be gentle. Don't force the belt on. I was scared too the first time I did it, so you aren't alone in that. If you do move it, just align everything back to TDC. It's only one cam so it makes it much easier. Double check it after you put the belt on and put tension on it.

[wagon-r]

on a different note, when you swap an a F22A for an F22B1, do you need to change anything ?! the ECU for example ?!

I swapped in a F22A6 head on my F22B1 block. Among the parts that didn't fit were the power steering pump and bracket, the high-pressure power steering hose (I had a custom power steering hose made to fit the vehicle at the steering rack and the F22A power steering pump at the other end), alternator and bracket, coolant tube behind the engine (runs from the water pump to the thermostat housing), upper timing belt cover (I made a custom cover), and timing belt. And, yes, the ECU is different. And, of course, the intake manifold and exhaust header/manifold are different. And I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff.

[EsperHamid]

I swapped in a F22A6 head on my F22B1 block. Among the parts that didn't fit were the power steering pump and bracket, the high-pressure power steering hose (I had a custom power steering hose made to fit the vehicle at the steering rack and the F22A power steering pump at the other end), alternator and bracket, coolant tube behind the engine (runs from the water pump to the thermostat housing), upper timing belt cover (I made a custom cover), and timing belt. And, yes, the ECU is different. And, of course, the intake manifold and exhaust header/manifold are different. And I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff.

Thanks for replying, what I meant is to swap my whole F22A engine for an F22B engine ... not only the head.

If I do so, the only thing that needs to be replaced is the ECU ?!

[wagon-r]

The motor mounts may not be the same. I didn't swap the block, so I didn't have to worry about that.

And you should have the same problem with the power steering high-pressure hose, as you are swapping in the F22A power steering pump with the F22A engine.

[EsperHamid]

The motor mounts may not be the same. I didn't swap the block, so I didn't have to worry about that.

And you should have the same problem with the power steering high-pressure hose, as you are swapping in the F22A power steering pump with the F22A engine.

maybe I didn't explain it well enough, I already have an F22A ... I want to swap it our for an F22B ....meaning F22A out, F22B in. Do I need I have a problem with Mounts / ECU / PS pump and hose ?!

[wagon-r]

I would think so. Just the same situation in reverse.

Hopefully, someone has swapped a F22B1 engine into a CB7 and can give you a better answer.