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Most Prone Locations for Refrigerant Leak

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    Most Prone Locations for Refrigerant Leak

    What are the most prone locations for a refrigerant leak on the CB chassis?

    I have heard the top of the compressor where the line connects is the most prone location. And I have also heard the evaporator is a common location.

    I plan to follow the retrofit DIY so everything will be removed, cleaned and re-installed. I would like to know the locations to pay extremely close attention to before hand.

    What's been your experience?





    #2
    anywhere there's an o-ring. By now all the factory ones are probably deteriorated to hell.

    I'd go to autozone and get one of those HNBR green o-ring kits and replace all of them in the lines at the very least.

    member's ride thread
    93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
    99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
    91 Accord SE 176k
    97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

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      #3
      That's exactly what I had planned to do. A somewhat daunting task it seems but if it nets me a reliable and operational A/C system I will be pleased.




      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by H311RA151N View Post
        That's exactly what I had planned to do. A somewhat daunting task it seems but if it nets me a reliable and operational A/C system I will be pleased.
        Its not too bad, I can only remember replacing 3 o-rings that are the culprits. 2 on the compressor and on on the condenser, you'll have to remove the grill for that one.

        member's ride thread
        93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
        99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
        91 Accord SE 176k
        97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

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          #5
          a lot of tmes the lines that run next to your battery like to corrode and leak
          visit vgruk

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            #6
            I ran across a few instances where that had happened during my search. Definitely something I will be checking for.
            Last edited by H311RA151N; 05-10-2015, 05:38 PM.




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              #7
              For me, the low pressure port needle leaked out all of my mad expensive r12. On my last CB, the compressor on the high pressure line leaked.

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                #8
                also one more spot i forgot. I had my original Hadsys compressor blow the high pressure relief valve and dump out my 30oz of R12, that was a costly experience.

                member's ride thread
                93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
                99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
                91 Accord SE 176k
                97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Post
                  also one more spot i forgot. I had my original Hadsys compressor blow the high pressure relief valve and dump out my 30oz of R12, that was a costly experience.
                  When the high pressure relief valve on the compressor dumps the refrigerant is it gradual or sudden?

                  The reason I ask is I'm in the middle of it all right now and have to leave for Iowa city Iowa in T minus 12 hours. I think it was leaking from the o rings on the compressor as I found one that was deformed but I'm not sure about the high pressure relief valve. When I ran the system before it leaked around the compressor area as the compressor it's self looked wet. On a Hyundai I had I over charged it one time and there was a loud hiss and refrigerant spray for a couple seconds. Is that how our system is or not? I'd like to know if I should try and reuse this compressor or not. It looks really good.




                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by H311RA151N View Post
                    When the high pressure relief valve on the compressor dumps the refrigerant is it gradual or sudden?

                    The reason I ask is I'm in the middle of it all right now and have to leave for Iowa city Iowa in T minus 12 hours. I think it was leaking from the o rings on the compressor as I found one that was deformed but I'm not sure about the high pressure relief valve. When I ran the system before it leaked around the compressor area as the compressor it's self looked wet. On a Hyundai I had I over charged it one time and there was a loud hiss and refrigerant spray for a couple seconds. Is that how our system is or not? I'd like to know if I should try and reuse this compressor or not. It looks really good.
                    Its pretty rapid, it'll vent out everything I'm thinking.

                    I'm not sure what i did to trigger me releasing everything, but I literally had nothing left in the system after investigating the pressure in the system.

                    member's ride thread
                    93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
                    99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
                    91 Accord SE 176k
                    97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I opened the Hadsys compressor and it had rusted in several places. I like how easy the Hadsys compressor is to work on as you do not have to remove the clutch to get to the allen bolts in order to inspect it like the Denso. Both sides still need to be removed to take it apart and clean it but just making an inspection to see if you have a good compressor is easier.

                      I pulled a Denso compressor, suction and discharge line off a salvage yard CB and it ended up being the only one of three compressor that were worth "rebuilding".

                      You cannot rebuild a Hadsys. There are no rebuild kits for it. So if you have one that leaks your in the market for another compressor unless it's leaking from the shaft seal.

                      The Denso is rebuildable in every way.

                      I have no clue why people convert their R12 CB7 to R134A and use PAG oil. PAG oil (R134A) and Mineral oil (R12) are not compatible. Yeah, you clean the system and all that jazz and do a good job and so on, but what if a little is left somewhere? Your up shit creek. Use Ester oil. It's compatible with both.

                      Thanks Losiracer2, you made a big difference in getting my A/C working. It was 92*F today with 67% humidity and as I sat there in the A/C driving along comfortably I thought about you helping me along with my A/C in a couple threads since a few months back. Thanks man. Seriously. And I +1 rep'ed you by the way.




                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by H311RA151N View Post
                        I opened the Hadsys compressor and it had rusted in several places. I like how easy the Hadsys compressor is to work on as you do not have to remove the clutch to get to the allen bolts in order to inspect it like the Denso. Both sides still need to be removed to take it apart and clean it but just making an inspection to see if you have a good compressor is easier.

                        I pulled a Denso compressor, suction and discharge line off a salvage yard CB and it ended up being the only one of three compressor that were worth "rebuilding".

                        You cannot rebuild a Hadsys. There are no rebuild kits for it. So if you have one that leaks your in the market for another compressor unless it's leaking from the shaft seal.

                        The Denso is rebuildable in every way.

                        I have no clue why people convert their R12 CB7 to R134A and use PAG oil. PAG oil (R134A) and Mineral oil (R12) are not compatible. Yeah, you clean the system and all that jazz and do a good job and so on, but what if a little is left somewhere? Your up shit creek. Use Ester oil. It's compatible with both.

                        Thanks Losiracer2, you made a big difference in getting my A/C working. It was 92*F today with 67% humidity and as I sat there in the A/C driving along comfortably I thought about you helping me along with my A/C in a couple threads since a few months back. Thanks man. Seriously. And I +1 rep'ed you by the way.
                        Oh yeah, no prob. Trust me, living in AZ, I know what its like to be SOL with no AC.

                        I think it was 113F today. Even though I was in my DD which had a Denso, I recently recharged and fixed the expansion valve in it and now it blows a chilly 40F on the highway and about 48 in City traffic.

                        member's ride thread
                        93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
                        99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
                        91 Accord SE 176k
                        97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

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