I just pulled my head off the H22. I took a few pictures of my cylinder walls this morning. I wasn't sure if they are in good condition or if they need bored from looking at them. Either way I was going to have them checked out but I was curious because I don't know what looks good and bad in a situation like this.
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How do my Cylinder Walls look?
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Holy carbon batman. Those actually don't look bad to me can you catch your nail in the scratch there?“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
― Jeremy Clarkson
Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755
Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144
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Originally posted by Mishakol129 View PostHoly carbon batman. Those actually don't look bad to me can you catch your nail in the scratch there?
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find a shop that can handle FRM and get a hone and new rings dude.
you could get an acceptable finish from a dingleberry hone if you want to DIY, it wont take much effort besides having the block stripped and being able to clean it properly after the operation and having the right grit brush.
its weird how white the walls are, but that scratch and the scuffs from the piston will need addressed, also that carbon ridge will need taken care of.
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Originally posted by illinois_erik View Postfind a shop that can handle FRM and get a hone and new rings dude.
you could get an acceptable finish from a dingleberry hone if you want to DIY, it wont take much effort besides having the block stripped and being able to clean it properly after the operation and having the right grit brush.
its weird how white the walls are, but that scratch and the scuffs from the piston will need addressed, also that carbon ridge will need taken care of.
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Originally posted by BreckAConner View PostMy plan is to take the head and block for a cleaning, if it needs to be shaved or honed I was going to have them check both and do it if needed. Now how do I clean the piston with all that carbon build up?
its weird how the smoot turned the solvent red
not a good pic but this is how your cylinder walls should look, and you should be seeing the cross hatching in them, however to the touch the walls should feel smooth as glass.
Last edited by illinois_erik; 05-02-2015, 12:44 PM.
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Originally posted by illinois_erik View Postthe honing operation will remove the carbon ring, the pistons can be soaked in a can of acetone to free the rings and help get the shit out and also facilitate cleaning the oil control holes on the pistons. when i broke my h22a down i did this, but the cylinders didnt need honed so everything was cleaned with solvents and detergent and hot water and clean water rinse, then reassembled
not a good pic but this is how your cylinder walls should look, and you should be seeing the cross hatching in them, however to the touch the walls should feel smooth as glass.Last edited by BreckAConner; 05-02-2015, 03:00 PM.
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Originally posted by BreckAConner View PostOkay, I can clean the pistons no problem,
They make tools to clean ring grooves, but I just took an old ring, broke it in half, securely wrapped the broken end, and used the unbroken end to scrape the carbon out of the grooves. It took me a half hour on each piston. You also need to punch the carbon out of the little holes with a very small metal tip.
The only way I know to check bearings is to make sure they are smooth and to check clearance. Or just replace the bearings, especially the rod bearings (crankshaft bearings tend to hold up better). Not that expensive - but make sure that you match the color coding on the bearings when you order the new ones - they aren't the same size on every cylinder.
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Originally posted by wagon-r View PostSoaking the pistons in acetone or other cleaner will help, but with your carbon buildup it won't begin to get the carbon out of the ring grooves. Trust me, I know from personal experience.
They make tools to clean ring grooves, but I just took an old ring, broke it in half, securely wrapped the broken end, and used the unbroken end to scrape the carbon out of the grooves. It took me a half hour on each piston. You also need to punch the carbon out of the little holes with a very small metal tip.
The only way I know to check bearings is to make sure they are smooth and to check clearance. Or just replace the bearings, especially the rod bearings (crankshaft bearings tend to hold up better). Not that expensive - but make sure that you match the color coding on the bearings when you order the new ones - they aren't the same size on every cylinder.
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Ok so what I'm looking at is a decently high mileage motor. So the white cyclinder walls is actually your glazed coating from said mileage. They look like they are in good condition still. What needs to be done at this point is 3 things one needs a machine shop that deals with frm meterial aka what your cyclinder walls are made of. They need a special stone to be honed. 2 that crank needs a micropolish.3. Everything needs to be cleaned even the block. By looking at your Pistons and the sludge that's on them I'm sure there is sludge in all of the oil passages. So to insure proper oil flow and pressure I would definitely look into a block bath. I would go ahead and do the hole thing head and block. Other wize it's a damn good base for a rebuild or even a performance build.
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Originally posted by 92smokeaccord View PostOk so what I'm looking at is a decently high mileage motor. So the white cyclinder walls is actually your glazed coating from said mileage. They look like they are in good condition still. What needs to be done at this point is 3 things one needs a machine shop that deals with frm meterial aka what your cyclinder walls are made of. They need a special stone to be honed. 2 that crank needs a micropolish.3. Everything needs to be cleaned even the block. By looking at your Pistons and the sludge that's on them I'm sure there is sludge in all of the oil passages. So to insure proper oil flow and pressure I would definitely look into a block bath. I would go ahead and do the hole thing head and block. Other wize it's a damn good base for a rebuild or even a performance build.
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Originally posted by BreckAConner View PostWhat should I ask them when I go to get it honed?
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Originally posted by 92smokeaccord View PostAll you need to ask is if they can hone a block that has frm meterial sleevs. If they say what's that then just leave.
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