No Clutch hydraulic pressure. HELP!!!!

[Rookdarealest]

I changed my master and slave cylinders this weekend. the reason I changed the parts is because the pedal was goin to far to the floor. I went to go bleed the line and the pedal still goes to floor. I did it the oem way(via hanyes manual), I even tried vacuum bleeding to no avail. what else could it be? Im really really stressed that I can start but not move my car. Can some1 please please help me......OAN no visible leaks what so ever.

[deevergote]

Bleed it as best you can (might take a good amount of time), and you should at least be able to achieve half pressure. Then have a friend pry on the slave cylinder with a long pipe, forcing whatever air is remaining out of it. That should fix the problem.

I had the same issue some time ago, and that was how I fixed it.

[af_1132]

What was your exact method? I don't have a Haynes manual, but I can tell you that there are many methods, and they don't all work.

For example, I replaced my slave cylinder around Christmas. I bled the line by the multiple pump method (open bleeder valve, pump multiple times until no air bubbles come out), and it does not work, at all. I was just putting air bubbles right back into the system.

I finally got pressure in the line when I had a friend first depress the pedal fully, then open the bleeder valve, then closed the bleeder valve once bubbles dissipated. This bleeds the hard lines and the master. Then, like deev said, you then depress the slave cylinder to get any bubbles out of that. It took about 7 or 8 times due to all the air brought in by my previous method.

Please tell me that you have a friend and a clear tube at the bleeder plug so that you can see the air bubbles.

[Rookdarealest]

I do have a clear tube and a vacuum pump and a friend. all of the above. ive done as deev stated and only get al lil pressure. but when I start the car and try to put in in gear, I get nothing. I will not go into gear. starts to grind like its not engaging. im lost....

[Raf99]

If you didn't prime the master cylinder properly as the directions state before connecting and bleeding again you could have air behind the master cylinder plunger.

Did you prep the master cylinder at all before putting into the car?

[Rookdarealest]

If you didn't prime the master cylinder properly as the directions state before connecting and bleeding again you could have air behind the master cylinder plunger.

Did you prep the master cylinder at all before putting into the car?

it did not prime the master..ive done this b4 with no problems w/o priming but I guess its worth a shot

[thumping_accord]

I had a hard time bleeding mine, spent a good amount of time with a buddy, one pump at a time...... once it started to build some pressure it got relatively easier though. I had to do this twice though cause after i had the system bled the "brand new" master cylinder was leaking out of a block off in it. Dont trust new parts to be perfect. look for leakage.

[af_1132]

it did not prime the master..ive done this b4 with no problems w/o priming but I guess its worth a shot

Yeah, you really need to do that.

[Flip-Eye]

Learnt from the last time I changed one, you really should "bench bleed" the clutch master cylinder before installing it in the car. Took my dad and I 2 hours to bleed the damn thing!

[jdm_inspired]

Learnt from the last time I changed one, you really should "bench bleed" the clutch master cylinder before installing it in the car. Took my dad and I 2 hours to bleed the damn thing!

Ding Ding Ding.
Gotta bench bleed it. It is VERY important. Actually its a must. After, bleed the brakes in a Z pattern (RR RL FR FL) and repeat steps if necessary. It is time consuming but oh so crucial.

[Fleetw00d]

Ding Ding Ding.
Gotta bench bleed it. It is VERY important. Actually its a must. After, bleed the brakes in a Z pattern (RR RL FR FL) and repeat steps if necessary. It is time consuming but oh so crucial.

We're talking clutch master cylinder here, but I believe it still applies.