Bisimoto heat shielding intake manifold gasket & Hondabond

[H311RA151N]

I'm preparing to remove the intake manifold on my 1993 Ex to clean the EGR passages and install an H23A1 upper plenum and throttle body.

I figured I would utilize the Bisimoto heat shielding intake manifold gasket while I'm at it. I searched this site and Bisimoto's regarding installation and all I could find specified is to use gasket sealant around the coolant passage.

I suppose the best thing to use would be Hondabond HT?

I'm also seriously considering a set of stainless extended intake manifold studs. Simply to make the installation of the intake manifold easier. Getting the nuts started can be a pain on a couple of them.

After the intake manifold ordeal is completed I'm installing an F22A4 exhaust manifold on the F22A6 engine and installing a set of stainless exhaust manifold studs while I'm at it to replace the prone to breaking factory studs. I figured it would be a nice feature to have studs on both intake and exhaust sides upgraded. Not that it matters.

[Mike1357]

I had mine installed when my swap was done and they used either mega gray or Honda bond. No leaks, no issues. I could see longer studs on the bottom of the intake manifold being nice.

[H311RA151N]

I had mine installed when my swap was done and they used either mega gray or Honda bond. No leaks, no issues. I could see longer studs on the bottom of the intake manifold being nice.

I just did a brief search and Versachem Mega Grey is said to be similar to Permatex Grey and Permatex Grey is said to be similar to Hondabond HT. So I guess as for what the shop did with yours Hondabond would work great. How long has it been installed?

About how thick is the gasket? I tried looking for a picture with the right angle or one of an intake manifold with it installed but had no such luck. It looks to be about 1/8" thick. I figured longer studs would really be helpful being as less threads on the stud would be exposed once the manifold was installed to the head with the gasket in between. Making it even more difficult to get a couple of the harder to reach nuts started.

[illinois_erik]

Hello, yes HB HT would be perfectly acceptable, just a film on both sides of the gasket around the coolant port maybe a 2-3mm ring. However *I* would not use stainless studs. stainless has a few properties that are not conducive to your application, one is they will gall and experience a high rate of galvanic corrosion being in the aluminum, i wouldnt rely on antiseeze as a remedy. also they will become brittle with heat and possibly shear off in the head when you goto remove the nuts, more so after a long service duration (exhaust more of a concern).

I purchased 2 sets of 180,000psi tensile extended black oxide coated studs with hex's in them (like arp studs) for like 16-20 bucks a set. 1 because I had dorman oem replacements snap just from doing their job. 2 you will definitely need the extended studs for the insulation intake gasket. they also come with serrated nuts so they wont back off. Also I highly suggest locktite on the intake sides nuts along with pink knuckling it with a wrench.

The ones i got were from arevmotorsports.com via ebay.
ex: http://arevmotorsports.com/product/e...ifold-studs-3/

[rustyaccord]

I know this has been asked before but instead of using Hondabond, would sandwiching the bisi gasket between two OEM gaskets work just as well? I only ask because it seems like the bisi gasket would have trouble sealing in places other than the coolant passage due to the material it's made out of.

[owequitit]

I've used Hondabond on all of my phenolic gaskets and haven't had any problems with it. Be careful though, a lot of people have experienced gasket shrinkage over time, leading to really weird vacuum issues. I haven't seen them.

It is about 1/8" thick, and you can use the stock studs with full thread engagement (just barely), but replacing would probably make it slightly easier.

[owequitit]

I know this has been asked before but instead of using Hondabond, would sandwiching the bisi gasket between two OEM gaskets work just as well? I only ask because it seems like the bisi gasket would have trouble sealing in places other than the coolant passage due to the material it's made out of.

Under pressure and heat, the phenolic gets soft and forms to the mating surfaces, creating a seal.

[H311RA151N]

Hello, yes HB HT would be perfectly acceptable, just a film on both sides of the gasket around the coolant port maybe a 2-3mm ring. However *I* would not use stainless studs. stainless has a few properties that are not conducive to your application, one is they will gall and experience a high rate of galvanic corrosion being in the aluminum, i wouldnt rely on antiseeze as a remedy. also they will become brittle with heat and possibly shear off in the head when you goto remove the nuts, more so after a long service duration (exhaust more of a concern).

I purchased 2 sets of 180,000psi tensile extended black oxide coated studs with hex's in them (like arp studs) for like 16-20 bucks a set. 1 because I had dorman oem replacements snap just from doing their job. 2 you will definitely need the extended studs for the insulation intake gasket. they also come with serrated nuts so they wont back off. Also I highly suggest locktite on the intake sides nuts along with pink knuckling it with a wrench.

The ones i got were from arevmotorsports.com via ebay.
ex: http://arevmotorsports.com/product/e...ifold-studs-3/

I totally forgot about galvanic corrosion. Good catch. And thank you for your recommendations. It's nice to be made aware of such options and factors before hand as I'm in somewhat uncharted territory. This helped me a lot!

I know this has been asked before but instead of using Hondabond, would sandwiching the bisi gasket between two OEM gaskets work just as well? I only ask because it seems like the bisi gasket would have trouble sealing in places other than the coolant passage due to the material it's made out of.

I hadn't thought of this. Initially when I read your response I thought it was a innovative idea and a good question.

I've used Hondabond on all of my phenolic gaskets and haven't had any problems with it. Be careful though, a lot of people have experienced gasket shrinkage over time, leading to really weird vacuum issues. I haven't seen them.

It is about 1/8" thick, and you can use the stock studs with full thread engagement (just barely), but replacing would probably make it slightly easier.

That's great to know about Hondabond. In creating this thread I thought it would be optimal but wasn't entirely sure.

I was unaware of any reported shirking issues with these gaskets... This information has me considering installing one. Now that I'm aware of this I can search the site (and others) to help make a better assessment.

I notice that you stated you have installed phenolic gaskets in the past. Have you installed this one in particular or one similar enough to make reference to? (H22A F22B ect) If so can you tell me specifics about your experience such as time span since installation and approximate mileage with it installed?

Under pressure and heat, the phenolic gets soft and forms to the mating surfaces, creating a seal.

This answers my question about this as well. Your help is much appreciated!

[c91bse7]

I just installed a thermal intake gasket on my cb, the stock fasteners work just fine. I found it easier to install the runners first to get all the nuts on, then install the Iab and plenum. I'll be re torquing the nuts in a few weeks. So far so good, I used some permatex blue sealant for the coolant port seems to be working all right

[H311RA151N]

I just installed a thermal intake gasket on my cb, the stock fasteners work just fine. I found it easier to install the runners first to get all the nuts on, then install the Iab and plenum. I'll be re torquing the nuts in a few weeks. So far so good, I used some permatex blue sealant for the coolant port seems to be working all right

Extended studs aiding in installation and providing the nut with more threads has me sold.


I thought removing the plenum from the runners was standard procedure. I wouldn't want all that weight on it while I was torquing it down or at least that's my thought behind it.

[c91bse7]

I'm not sure, different people do the same thing different ways. I
Think the extended studs would help/make it easier but there not needed, I probably would have ordered some as well but my car was already torn down and ready for reassembly before I even thought about it.

[illinois_erik]

I totally forgot about galvanic corrosion. Good catch. And thank you for your recommendations. It's nice to be made aware of such options and factors before hand as I'm in somewhat uncharted territory. This helped me a lot!

It happens Thanks! Youre welcome, anytime man. Yeah I think in a build its like 70% looking up stuff and 30% actually spinning wrenches..you know how it goes. Glad I could help throwin in my two bits

[H311RA151N]

Whats the reason behind torquing the nuts in a few weeks c91bse7?

[H311RA151N]

It happens Thanks! Youre welcome, anytime man. Yeah I think in a build its like 70% looking up stuff and 30% actually spinning wrenches..you know how it goes. Glad I could help throwin in my two bits

I would have to say your right!

Wow, and those are extended studs? That gasket takes up a lot of thread...

[c91bse7]

From what I've read after a few heat cycles the gasket shrinks a little so it's best to retorque them for good measure. Be sure to not over due it though or the gasket may bulge out which you don't want.