I think my H22A4 spun a rod bearing. Can I take the oil pan off and check?Is the H22A

[tlej@live.com]

Is the H22A4 setup in a way where I can pull the oil pan off and see if anything is loose?... I hear a "tack tack tack tack" when it rev's above 1.5k (also when it first cranks because the rev's go up high for a split second.). Haven't driven it since it began.. Took the VC off and appears to be fine from the top..(Obviously the head would need to be removed to check for sure..But the valves look good atleast..) Can you replace a rod bearing without pulling the motor on a 5th gen Prelude? And I'm guessing if one is spun, then there's probably others that are damaged as well... and also the crank.. But honestly I'm looking for a quick fix for an old daily.. Body is rusted to hell, has been in a few accidents, and don't really want to drop 2k/3k on a rebuild/swap... I have some rod bearings available .. Just wondering if it's worth trying.

[cb9love]

you can drop the cross member, exhaust, and oil pan too get too the block girdle so you can remove that too see the rods. Just replacing your bearings without having your crank turned is just going too lead too the rod or rods spinning again on the damaged crank journal.
so a quick bearing replacement will lead too a quick bearing failure.
I replaced spun rod bearings on a spun crank while the motor was installed. Even after smoothing the damaged crank journals with varying grits of emery cloth the quick fix lasted long enough too drive across town too get my other long block out of my friends garage, which is how long i needed it too last, but still longer than i expected it too last.
Rebuild kits for these are cheap if your just doing a old daily beater. Then just find a reasonable machine shop too turn your crank.

[98vtec]

rev the engine to the rpm where the noise starts and pull a plug wire off the spark plug of one cylinder. if the noise doesnt go away or quiet down, move to the next cylinder. if the noise never goes away, its likely that its not in the bottom end.

one of the easier tests is to test oil pressure.

[cb9love]

rev the engine to the rpm where the noise starts and pull a plug wire off the spark plug of one cylinder. if the noise doesnt go away or quiet down, move to the next cylinder. if the noise never goes away, its likely that its not in the bottom end.

one of the easier tests is to test oil pressure.

would pulling a plug wire stop a loose rod from smacking around in the cylinder?

[tlej@live.com]

Ok so I went to try this plug method and this time when I cranked it, my oil light came on flashing... (Keep in mind I did just do an oil change after this knocking began to check the metal shavings and what not... So I'm guessing either the feeders are clogged or the pump is dead.)

So I could get lucky here: http://columbia.craigslist.org/pts/4573657553.html

[98vtec]

Ok so I went to try this plug method and this time when I cranked it, my oil light came on flashing... (Keep in mind I did just do an oil change after this knocking began to check the metal shavings and what not... So I'm guessing either the feeders are clogged or the pump is dead.)

So I could get lucky here: http://columbia.craigslist.org/pts/4573657553.html

the light flashes when you have less than ~10psi of oil pressure. it takes more time for the engine to build pressure when there is a larger clearance

the "feeds" being clogged is next to impossible.

if you dont have a gauge and are nearly stuck to guessing, you need to drop the pan. Just draining the oil for a sample wont always yield bearing material. If you have bearing damage, it will be sitting in the bottom of the pan.