CV Shaft Seals

[BreckAConner]

I'm replacing my CV shafts, and realized when I pulled my left driver side cv joint off that the seal was bad on the half shaft I believe it's called. I want to replace all the seals at this point and I don't know what cv shaft seals I need. Also I am dropping the transmission to replace the clutch. Will I need any seals for that also?

Thanks!

[H311RA151N]

From my DIY. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ght=speed+swap


Do the rear main while you are at it.



-Transmission seals. There is a shift rod seal, and two output/drive axle seals that need to be replaced. I used an Ishino right and an ARS left. I got both for $25 shipped. I used a NOK shift rod seal. The input shaft seal is internal. No need to replace it unless its leaking. I do not cover that in this DIY and its not a real common problem that I am aware of.

OTHER:

-Blue thread locker.
-Hondabond HT sealant.
-2 Quarts of Genuine Honda MTF or Syncromesh. I used Honda MTF.
-Dot 3 brake fluid.





-Rear main/crankshaft seal case gasket set. Part number: BS40430. I went this route as I had another issue with the end of the crankshaft. My rear main seal was so bad it wore a groove in the crankshaft. I used the gaskets that came in the Fel-Pro kit at Autozone and didn't use the seal. I did this to space the seal case out just a bit, therefore the seal as well to get the seal to ride on a slightly different spot of the crank. You can read more on this in the rear main part of this DIY.


Below is my H2A5 in the back of my pickup, all dirty and nasty.





-PLUG HOLES-

First go ahead and clean the transmission up. Most of the time they have 20 years of road grime and dirt on them. You want to get it pretty clean. You don't want a bunch of shit getting into the transmission when you open it up. Which you will be doing later. Remember to plug the holes where the CV shaft/intermediate shafts go in before you spray it. I used the rubber stoppers off the bottom of a chair and electrical tape. Also plug the hoses coming off the VSS. I used some bolts. Remove the clutch fork, spring and boot too. It's pictured later in this DIY so don't worry about which way it goes.

Below are some photos of the objects I used to plug the CV/intermediate shaft holes.





-CLEAN-

Below is my transmission after some Simple Green and the car wash. I clean it up further but this will do.



-CV SHAFT/INTERMEDIATE SHAFT SEALS-

Take your new CV shaft seals and find something to push on them with. Pictures are better at explaining this. I made my "object". You want to push on them to the outer side. The middle is fine but the middle towards the outside is best.





Now that you have something to drive your new seals in its time to pry your old seals out CAREFULLY. There are seal pullers you can use. If your careful you can use a flat head screwdriver as I did. Pry on one side a bit, then the other. This is refered to as "wallering" or "waller" it out where I live. That's the best way I can describe it. Walk it out? I don't know...


Below is the intermediate shaft side with the seal out.



The passenger side CV shaft seal with the seal out.





The seals are different sizes! They are close so you will have to size both up to which ever side you do first. You will know when you have the right one (if you have any sense). You can also look up part numbers or whatever you have to do to keep them straight. One will go, one won't.

Clean the holes out first! Below shows how this is done. Tap in a circle on the object while against the seal until the seal sits down in the recessed hole. You will hear the sound change to a more solid tap and the seal will not proceed to go any further once its reached the proper depth. Do not use excessive force.







And the seals are in. These pictures should give you a better idea of the proper depth for the seals.

Passenger side CV shaft seal.



Driver side intermediate shaft seal.




Now use some paint caps and paper tape (or anything else that serves this purpose) as I did to keep dirt and debris out of the trans while you do the rest.






-SHIFT ROD SEAL-


Now your ready for the shift rod seal. Get cleaned up, put some rubber gloves on if you have them and get comfortable. What your about to do can screw you around real good if you don't do exactly as I say and read this before you do it.

You need a 10mm and a 12mm socket. A 12mm 6 point is preferred. Also if you have your MTF already purchased grab a bottle of it too, crack the cap open and pour a bit in the cap and have it on hand. You also need your Hondabond HT sealant.

Remove the bolts with the red dots in the picture below.



Now you will need to pry this cover off. Below is how I did this with an extension.



The cover will come off. You will need to wiggle the fork selector on top of this cover when you go to pull it off.



Bend this tab back like so with your flat head screw driver.






Now you can access the 12mm bolt with your 12mm 6 point socket. PAY ATTENTION! Before you get the bolt all the way out you need to grab a hold of the metal piece which staked the bolt in place like so. If not it will fall in the trans and your screwed.






With this 12mm bolt and the lock out you can now pull the shift lever out. Twisting as you pull lightly straight out.





Pull the shift lever boot off and now you can access the seal. You can waller this seal out with a flat head screw driver as well. Once the seal is out clean the hole. Find an object to drive this seal in. A flat washer works great. Tap it in until it fits like so. Remember not too far! If you drive it in all the way flush you wont be able to put the boot back on as the boot installs on the lip of the seal between the transmission case and the seal.





Install the shift lever boot. Note the hole goes down.



Lube the shaft and the seal up with your MTF and install the shift lever. Carefully twisting and pushing gently. Making sure its lined up with the interlock properly. Remember the end on the shift lever that the shifter cable attaches to goes to the top!






Line the hole up in the shaft, put the bolt through the lock and then get the bolt started. Making sure not to drop the lock into the transmission.




Don't forget to bend the lock tab back over after torquing bolt down. I went to 45ftlbs as that's about what I felt it was when I went to remove it.



Use a rag and stuff in the hole to keep debris and the sealant out of the transmission.



Clean the surfaces where the cover meets the transmission. Both sides. I used some lacquer and a craft knife.



Clean your bolts up. I used a wire wheel.





Get out your Hondabond HT and put a THIN line of sealant like so. I spread mine out with my finger. Note the interlock bolt removed, you don't have to do that. Mine had 375K on it and was wore. Yours more than likely wont be.







Re-install. Torque down in a criss-cross pattern. If you put the proper amount of Hondabond HT on the mating surface it should look like this. As long as its not oozing a dripping everywhere your ok. Also note in the picture above I had not staked the bolt with the lock yet, don't forget!







Here is the rear main.









With the flexplate removed you can now access the rear main seal. I had an oil pan gasket to replace as well so I went a little different route as for the rear main seal case. I removed the down pipe and the oil pan which rids the rear main case of the lower two studs. With these two studs in the oil pan prevents the rear main case from being pulled out and the seal prevents the rear main case from being pulled up and out. So what I recommend is carefully prying the rear main seal out. Another member on here had told me they get the seal case off without removing the oil pan. It might be worth a look but I didn't see that is was possible.



Two studs coming from rear main case going into oil pan.



I did mine a bit different as I had an oil pan gasket issue. But this is the rear main case with the seal removed.



I had a spare engine laying around which I removed the rear crankshaft/main seal from without removing the seal case. I did this so I knew it could be done. And it can be.




You will need to use an object again to drive the new seal in. I used a round piece/plate of wood. Once again you tap around the edges in a circular pattern. Apply a little grease to the inside lip of the seal before you install it. ARS seals come pre-greased. If the seal you bought was not pre-greased then you will need to grease it.

[BreckAConner]

Thanks for the reply, this actually helped me. Now 1 more question, is the half shaft seal the same as the left seal on the transmission. I haven't quite found out what that seal is called.

[H311RA151N]

There are technically 3 "shaft" seals.

One where the passenger side CV shaft enters the transmission.

One on the drivers side of the transmission where the intermediate shaft enters the transmission.

And one on the bearing part of the intermediate shaft where the driver side cv shaft enters the intermediate shaft. Don't worry about this one.




This one:

One where the passenger side CV shaft enters the transmission.

And this one:

One on the drivers side of the transmission where the intermediate shaft enters the transmission.

Are NOT the same. One is 40x58x8mm and the other is 35x56x8mm.

The 40x58x8mm (larger seal) is for the passenger side.

[BreckAConner]

There are technically 3 "shaft" seals.

One where the passenger side CV shaft enters the transmission.

One on the drivers side of the transmission where the intermediate shaft enters the transmission.

And one on the bearing part of the intermediate shaft where the driver side cv shaft enters the intermediate shaft. Don't worry about this one.




This one:


And this one:

Are NOT the same. One is 40x58x8mm and the other is 35x56x8mm.

The 40x58x8mm (larger seal) is for the passenger side.

I kinda destroyed that one, so that's why I was wondering what it's called.

[H311RA151N]

The intermediate shaft seal in the intermediate shaft? It happens.

#25?

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ry5=DRIVESHAFT

[BreckAConner]

The intermediate shaft seal in the intermediate shaft? It happens.

#25?

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ry5=DRIVESHAFT

Yeah, that one. I wasn't sure if it's the same as left side transmission.