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Condition of a used H22a

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    Condition of a used H22a

    Hey all, I have a question about an engine I want to get as a spare in case my engine breaks down. I know of where I can get a complete H22a engine but it may need rebuilding the owner said because the "oil pump may have failed". He said that because the oil pump was improperly installed (how can you improperly install an oil pump is my question). He wants 300 for it. My question is if this engine really does need rebuilding or if this guy is just being over cautious. He said he would do it just for good measure. He said the history of the motor is unknown, he doesn't even know how many miles are on it.
    My question is what are obvious signs this engine is healthy or not without having it in the car, a leak down test, or physical examination of the cylinder head? If in the case the engine is damaged and is leaking compression (from damaged rings or pistons), would overboring the engine 0.25 mm over be a good idea even with its FRM bores?

    I think I shall go and see the condition of the engine and bring with me a compressor and my leak down test kit. Take off the valve cover and see the damage if there is any. I wonder what it is I should look for.
    Last edited by Mishakol129; 09-30-2013, 12:58 PM.
    “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
    ― Jeremy Clarkson




    Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


    Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

    #2
    Leak down is probably as best as it gets. For $300 though it's a worthy risk. If the head is in good shape you could net $250 off of that alone. You could take the head off and examine the pistons and cylinder walls as well I imagine for deep scoring, crank turns, etc.
    '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

    Originally posted by deevergote
    If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

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      #3
      If the oil pump is in question, I would inspect the bearings.
      Originally posted by Mishakol129
      Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Joey GT-R View Post
        Leak down is probably as best as it gets. For $300 though it's a worthy risk. If the head is in good shape you could net $250 off of that alone. You could take the head off and examine the pistons and cylinder walls as well I imagine for deep scoring, crank turns, etc.
        Okay thanks guys for your help. Now another question I have. For my spare/swap engine would I be better off buying the H23 Vtec for $900 with 220psi compression or getting that H22a that needs a rebuild? I would probably end up spending the same amount of money for both. Is the H23 Vtec better than the H22a? I would like to put the H23 Vtec in my accord since its a wagon and I read that the H23 Vtec came exclusively in wagons. I think it would be really cool to have a jdm wagon engine in a usdm wagon. The longer stroke and the lower redline would suit my gauges also, and it would give me the little extra torque (I think). So, H23 Vtec vs H22a, is it a faster engine or slower? I know its a little harder to get it to work than the H22, you need the upper plenum of the H23 IM and a P13 ECU and H22 injectors (when I think about it maybe it will be more expensive, but 1 or $200 is no big deal if its a little faster). I already have the means to get resources for the swap pretty easily. What do you think? I saw someone on the HT forum making great numbers NA with just a Skunk IM, new fuel pump and a tuned ECU. He made like 171 Wtq and 202 Whp with the H23 Vtec.

        Here is where I found that little piece of info:

        http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3041418
        Last edited by Mishakol129; 09-30-2013, 08:24 PM.
        “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
        ― Jeremy Clarkson




        Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


        Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

        Comment


          #5
          I wouldn't even bother I would save up and just get the swap the h22 is effective with the h22 transmission unless its boost.

          Comment


            #6
            H22A or H23A, it doesn't make too much a difference. It all comes down to proper tuning once it's all said and done.

            I have a buddy whose got an H22A1 in his car and he loves it to death. The only down side for him was he had bought the motor used from a local shop. He got it cheap, but had to make sure everything was in good enough condition, so it had to be torn down to check internals, which meant more down time, and extra dough for replacement parts, seals, etc. So, be very careful! If it's in an okay enough condition where you won't have to do too much re-conditioning or repair, then it's worth going with an H22 since it's a lot easier to PnP into our CB7's. And yes, it is a lot more hassle trying to meld the old technology with your newer H23A blue top

            I wanted the extra UMPH! in my ride so I opted with a Blue Top H23A 'cause I had a bit extra $ to burn! A lot more of a pain in the ass as far as electricals, but luckily I got a fellow CB7Tuner here in the same city as me to help.

            Bottom line: TUNING IS KEY! Also, it helps if you got a fellow mechanic buddy like I did to look at the motor before buying, you're in good shape. If you get it from a reputable shop, with your buddy looking at it too, EVEN BETTER!
            Last edited by Accord1320; 10-12-2013, 03:57 AM.

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