is there any place in the world that sells them because I want to take off my ps pump and reservoir.. I want a cleaner engine bay so I can start working on a tuck, but if no one makes them, i'm not going to bother..
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manual rack and pinion?
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Remove the power steering pump and loop your lines to your rack call it a day. There is a DIY on the forum.1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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You gotta make it yourself, or you can ship me your rack and I'll do it for you.
There is a really trick rack conversion where you disassemble the rack and remove the hydraulic piston disc. Then repack the rack with gear grease. No need to have looped lines or a pressure breather installed. This would be an actual manual rack that has great road feel.
Looping the lines as mentioned above is a much quicker way to do it though.
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Originally posted by GhostAccord View PostYou gotta make it yourself, or you can ship me your rack and I'll do it for you.
There is a really trick rack conversion where you disassemble the rack and remove the hydraulic piston disc. Then repack the rack with gear grease. No need to have looped lines or a pressure breather installed. This would be an actual manual rack that has great road feel.
Looping the lines as mentioned above is a much quicker way to do it though.
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Originally posted by fstacrd View Postwould it turn good at a stop without having to use both hands? if so how much would you charge to do it and i'll probably just send a new one?
In saying that I never found it all that hard to use at a stop or in parking lots.
Here is a DIY very similar to what I do...
http://www.mivec.co.nz/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=7623
The parts are a bit different but the process is the same.
PM me if you are serious about having something like this done. Cheers!
Originally posted by 92accord ex View Postthis should help
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...al+rack+pinionLast edited by GhostAccord; 07-09-2013, 01:38 PM.
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I have been searching through the ps alternatives for about a year- and have come to the conclusion that I will be frankenstien-ing a rack.
I'm going to need a manual rack from a civic/integra/something that came w/manual steering- and a steering column from both a cb and the donor manual rack car. I will also need outer tie rods (either custom milled, or from a third kind of donor vehicle)
The wrack can be fabbed to mount where-ever it needs to- but the tie rod ends have to be long enough- and the civic rack is considerably shorter than ours. The splined connection between the rack and the steering column are TOTALLY different- and it would probably be easier to cut the civic steering column shaft and weld it to a cb one- retaining the civic splines to match the rack connection.
The Shop car is also a cb, and I am hoping to be able to test all of ^this soon. I will have access to everything but custom tie rods- which I wouldn't need until after it was all fabbed up and mounted.
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LadyG,
What about measuring the overall difference in length of the manual steering rack from the OEM one, then dividing that by 2. This is the length that each tie rod will have to be extended. Take an old tie rod end and cut the difference out and then cut the new tie rod ends in half and weld the difference in the middle?1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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Originally posted by 92accord ex View Postthere a DIY on how to make your rack into a manual one, ill see of i can find it for youFRIENDS
DONT LET
FRIENDS
ROLL ON
ROTA'S
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Tie rod ends are under force when your turning, I think that it would be better to keep them as one piece.
There will also be some differences in where this will mount- and not a lot of room above our subframe- so the simple math you did might not be how is goes irl. One tie rod could end up being longer than the other- ect. A possible solution for is the threaded bit the tie rod goes into could be lengthened as well.
Its going to take actually making this to work the bugs out of it. We are going to mock the whole thing up on the shop car, and work all the kinks out.
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So can you tell me what the difference is between a power steering rack and pinion assembly and a manual rack and pinion assembly? Aside from the obvious. Are the rack and pinion shafts a larger diameter or stronger steel?
I am unable to see the difference in the actual gear & shaft strengths. The real gains I can see from doing all of this work. Is that you will probably get a smaller lock to lock steering ratio.
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The gearing ratios on the toothed thing inside the rack are different from the ps to a manual- that is the biggest difference.
The other is a spline difference where the rack and column meet. There are more splines on the manual rack than the ps one.
Could that just be a difference in chassis? Yes.
The ps exists to compensate for the smaller teeth on the ps rack- smaller teeth- more turns of the steering wheel. The fluid pressure in the ps rack (maintained by the pump) makes it take less turns to move up or down the toothed bar.
BUT
My rack is busted, new ones for the cb are expensive.
I have all the parts- and all the equipment- why not?Last edited by LadyG; 07-11-2013, 06:17 PM.
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Can you measure the difference in diameter of the two for me? That is what I am interested in. If there is a substantial difference in the diameter of the pinion and rack shafts. Then I may look into doing something similar as well.
Might look into just doing a pinion shaft swap if there is no significant strength advantage.
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