cooling hose pressure specs

[EsperHamid]

Hey tuners, just a quick question ... gonna change my cooling hoses with new ones, specifically those of the FITV / IACV and the ones going to the throttle body and the IM

my question is, what's the spec pressure of the hoses should be in PSI / BAR. also does the same pressure spec apply for the brake booster hose ?!
I didn't find this info in the common info thread
thank you.

[wildBill83]

The coolant system should peak at 1.1 atm

[EsperHamid]

thanks for the reply .. so a 28 atm cable should be more than enough.

one more thing unrelated ... I am inspecting the shift selector cable cause I've been having some abnormal sounds when shifting.
anything wrong with these 2 pictures so far ?!

[wildBill83]

Yes, that rating should be fine on the hoses. Your engineered weak point is the radiator cap, it releases pressure once the system hits 1.1ATM so anything rated that or better should work as long as it can contain the heat.

The shift cable looks healthy, I don't remember mine hanging that low between the transmission and firewall though. What noises are being heard and when? Can you make a video?

[EsperHamid]

Yes, that rating should be fine on the hoses. Your engineered weak point is the radiator cap, it releases pressure once the system hits 1.1ATM so anything rated that or better should work as long as it can contain the heat.

The shift cable looks healthy, I don't remember mine hanging that low between the transmission and firewall though. What noises are being heard and when? Can you make a video?

yes I can make a video but it is gonna take till tomorrow .. my upload speed is not so great and I gotta await the night so that the place around me becomes quiet.

anyway, I will summarize it now and then post the video.

I adjusted the cable the sounds are much lower now yet they persist !!!
1) from P => R ( sometimes slips)
2) from N => R ( loud clicking /breaking sound )
3) in D4 - D3 - 2 - 1 ( shruging )

2) the clicking sound I don't know why .. tomorrow gonna adjust the cable from the bottom ( in tranny ) cause it seems a little twisted ... the hole in the cable should be facing the top ... it is to the right if you notice in the pic.

1 and 3 however are related to the brake pedal !!! if I press with force the brake pedal to the floor ... I can switch through all the gears without any problem !!

however it is not normal that each time I wanna change gears to press the brake pedal with force to the floor right ?!

also when the car is cold any time of the day after warming up the car .... when I want to move from P to R to drive the car .. I release the hand brake then hit the brake pedal ... the pedal gives a weird shruging sound ... similar to opening an non-oiled old door

[EsperHamid]

alright I removed the gear selector cable, I noticed there's an O-ring seal around the stud where you install the control lever. I am able the move this stud in and out of the O-ring ... shouldn't this be solid ?! is this normal ?! or it's time to change the O-ring seal ?!

it looks similar to the P/S o-ring seal where the pulley resides.

I also adjusted the cable so it isn't twisted to the right anymore and the hole faces upwards

[wildBill83]

You should have to use the foot brake to switch from P to any other gear. Some of the sound might be motor mounts, other described sounds match a brake booster. I'll have to wait for the video. I'm not familiar with the oring you speak of, sounds like a grommet or bushing to me. A photo of that would also help.

[Accord problems]

i bet you got broken motor mount's . mine are shot causing the motor to lean a little there for causing my cable to hang low .

[EsperHamid]

i bet you got broken motor mount's . mine are shot causing the motor to lean a little there for causing my cable to hang low .

I can assure you that, my rear motor mount is torn the one with vacuum actuator .. I can hear the tranny acting like a caterpillar and it shakes when I shift to reverse

but the sounds I am talking about are mostly brake related as mentioned by wildbill83

You should have to use the foot brake to switch from P to any other gear. Some of the sound might be motor mounts, other described sounds match a brake booster. I'll have to wait for the video. I'm not familiar with the oring you speak of, sounds like a grommet or bushing to me. A photo of that would also help.

of course it is natural to use the foot brake to change gears ... that's what I am wondering ... what is the connection between the brake pedal, the brake booster and the gear selector that is causing these arching / shruging sounds ?!

could it be the brake system needs beelding ?! or the brake pedal needs adjustment ?!

also forgot to mention that when I re-installed the shift cable, the rubber bushing was torn due to the out of adjustment done by the mechanic.... is the bushing replaceable or does it come with a new cable only ?! how much does the shift cable cost ?!

this is a 2 weeks old video I shot. however the video says tranny leak, I think it is engine oil or p/s oil leaking. oil can take weird passages.

[Accord problems]

fiend the leak and fix it . it's probably just the pan seal . your best bet is to pressure wash it then let dry and park it on some card board .

You should have to use the foot brake to switch from P to any other gear. Some of the sound might be motor mounts, other described sounds match a brake booster. I'll have to wait for the video. I'm not familiar with the oring you speak of, sounds like a grommet or bushing to me. A photo of that would also help.

you know i wounder if he's hearing his exhaust move around do to bad mounts ?

[EsperHamid]

fiend the leak and fix it . it's probably just the pan seal . your best bet is to pressure wash it then let dry and park it on some card board .
you know i wounder if he's hearing his exhaust move around do to bad mounts ?

I am not caring about the leak right now. Concerning the sounds .. It is when I first move the car from a cold start or when I move from a stop .... While rolling on the road however, everything looks fine nothing related to the mounts

[Accord problems]

no no bro. im sorry should have been more clear . ok with a ( one or more ) broken motor mount it lets the motor move right . well when the motor moves like say top ( valve cover ) towered the fire wall it pulls on the exhaust . know when it tilts towered the front from the top ( valve cover ) of the motor it shoves the hole exhaust back . when it does this it hits on stuff . i know because mine does this .

[wildBill83]

I would invest in a new cable if the bushing is destroyed. The cable can be pricey in the states, I'm not sure what your pricing for import items is there.

[EsperHamid]

I would invest in a new cable if the bushing is destroyed. The cable can be pricey in the states, I'm not sure what your pricing for import items is there.

why what symptoms could happen if the bushing is ripped, I am told it only keeps from dirt, but I have the metalic cover then one with 3 bolts ... is it still a risk ?!

[wildBill83]

Do you have an issue with rust? Keep it lubed and it should be fine. If debris enters or rust forms it can increase force required to shift or completely lock up the shift cable itself rendering the shifter useless.